That mock up looks very very nice:intello: If I could make one criticism though, it would be the esc is a long way from the motor wires.

Awesome build sir crasher :yipi:

Thanks and yes, this is one thing that tore me inside when I decided to put the ESC where it is.:smile: It was really too tight in the front. I will have to solder on longer wires no matter where I place the ESC. They will just be a little longer. Like 4 inches longer :lol:

As always, your build is turning out awesome. Can't wait to hear how it does in action.

Can't wait to find out how well it will run also. Up to now this has been a pretty easy build. The hardest part was figuring out the Muggy steering but the rest was pretty simple. I seriously thought it would be more difficult and complicated. I am still waiting for the CF plates to come in and I just ordered a 2.5 mm thick T6 6061 alu plate to make the front skid part to hold the steering bellcranks and a proper servo horn from Racers Edge.

Looking great MC. Wish mine was coming along as fast as yours is.

Your layout is nice with a very centered Cg. I'm hedging my bet that I'll need more weight on the front to alleviate wheelies - unfortunately, we are both going to end up locking ourselves into whichever config we build!

I think that with enough time and money, you're never locked into any build. :smile:

The 3 mm thick CF plate came in so I made the middle skid plate that will hold the batteries.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ddle_skid1.jpg

With most of the tools I use for building now out of the boxes, working is now easier and faster so I should be able to finish this build sooner than I thought.

Here's a pic of the chassis rails mounted on the skid plate with a couple of CF strips to bring it down 9 mm. Some may notice that the top of the rails have more holes than stock. That's because I drilled the bottom holes for the middle skid right through the rails. Even though I used 25 mm long screws to secure the skid to the rails, the thought of having those screws strip out because of the weight of the batteries worries me just a little bit. If that happens then I will use screws long enough to stick out the top plate and use nuts to lock them in.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ddle_skid2.jpg

A pic of the spacer strips that bring the skid down, lowering the CG.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ddle_skid3.jpg

I am now waiting on these supplies to finish the build.

The double slipper plate
The 2.5 mm thick CF plate to make the top plate
The E-Revo tranny motor mount and motor plate (the motor plate is to use as a template to make a 6 mm thick CF motor plate)
The Racers Edge servo horn
6X10 mm bearings for the Muggy steering bellcranks
The 0.1'' thick 6061 T6 aluminum plate to make the front skid doubler to hold the Muggy steering.

I also ordered some ABS plastic boxes that I will study to see if I can make some battery boxes out of.

Some goodies came in the mail yesterday. The ABS boxes, the Hot Racing double slipper and the E-Revo tranny. I was going this route at first for the battery boxes.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box1.jpg

It would've worked but I still needed to make some blocks to go on either end of the batteries to keep them from sliding. It left the batteries much exposed and it would have been difficult to put some foam padding and have it stay there. When I got the ABS boxes I thought that they would work much better for making proper battery boxes that secure and protect the batteries. The finished boxes have an interior dimension of 185 mm long by 39 mm wide by 52 mm high. Plenty of room for a lot of batteries on the market and some foam padding.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box5.jpg

Once I was done with the battery boxes, I worked a bit on the tranny. I wanted to set up the slipper even though I still don't have the motor plate and mount.
I will try this Hot Racing double slipper with 6 stock slipper pads at first to see if it works. If it doesn't then I will make an aluminum slipper disk like what I am using on the E-Revo. The Hot Racing slipper looks very nice, fits extremely well and has less wobbling than the stock slipper assembly.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_tranny1.jpg

I took 4 Traxxas screw pins and grinded them down to use with the RC Monster drive cups. The Traxxas output shaft has two flat spots and a hole and I wanted to use that to secure the drive cups which have two threaded holes for grub screws.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_tranny2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_tranny3.jpg

So the screw pins will go in the drive cups and rest against the flat spots of the output shaft with the small pin part I left in the hole. It should be very strong.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_tranny4.jpg

One last pic.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo_tranny5.jpg

No, I'm pretty sure that the XXL diff's have the HD cups in them already, but I know for sure that the older LST diff's don't. In fact, I believe that if the diff's are blue, they have the HD cups in them. If they are silver, they don't. That's if you are buying them on eBay with the shafts and all. XXL Diff's have the black center shafts which are longer than the silver LST2 shafts.

I know for a fact that the blue XXL diff's have HD cups in them, because I took one apart and I was thrown off by the fact that it had those retainer square pieces in them, where my LST diff's didn't. The cups are still plastic though.

So... is this right then?? I'm sure that I'm not confusing my XXL diff w/ my RCM Hybrid Revo diff.

Thanks!
Jason

Ray... I LOVE LOVE LOVE what you are doing!!!!! Genius!!!!

Your confusing yourself trying to find an easy way to see what they have. The ONLY way to know what diff you have in your hand is to take it apart. My original LST had the blue alum cases, and NOT HD diffs. My Muggy also had the blue aluminum cases and NOT HD diffs.

To find out what each model comes with requires looking at the parts list for each model.

ps. You need to send me a pm, 'cause at this point I am not stopping at the post office on the way home tonight....

Oh, ok... yer right. I guess I didn't realize that blue diff cases were used in older Losi's. I always see the blue ones on eBay, complete with center shaft and pulled from an XXL. I think all the XXL diff's use blue cases and HD cups. But that doesn't mean that all blue cased diff's are from the XXL necessarily.

I got confused because there are so many chop shops on Ebay selling diffs! Many of the complete silver cased diff's are pulled from Aftershock/LST2/LST's, and they have the shorter center shafts, and no HD cup.

Thanks for clarifying!

j

So I have two sets of battery boxes now. I made a set of boxes that are a bit smaller, they allow for batteries that are 32 mm in thickness max. Perfect for most 3S and 2S packs. If I ever want to run two large 4S lipos in parallel for longer run times then I just put the large boxes on. I will trim that middle skid under the battery boxes so that it doesn't stick out the way it does now.

Other stuff came in today, the bearings for the Muggy steering, the Traxxas motor plate and motor mount. I thought of a simple way to support the back of the motor. It's not as pretty as the kit I posted earlier but it will work.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box7.jpg

This set up should work well for steering, there is a lot of weight to the front. Once the conversion is done, I suspect that close to 60% of the weight will be to the front.

I think I'm finally done with these battery boxes.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ttery_box8.jpg

Love it MC! Question... Perhaps this isn't the proper place for such questions... As I don't want to side track the tread... BuowNow might a novice like myself cut CF? Dont bother? I only have a Rotozip as well as a variable speed dremel. I often wonder how guys join two pieces together to make 90 degree angle too. I cld look for some used tools if I knew what to look for.

Thanks