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Chad - If and when you do find those Saver parts shoot me a PM with a price. I May take you up on that if the price is right.
Man I went and ran a pack through this weekend on the newly rebuilt diffs. CRAP, I locked/blew the rear diff on the first run. Nova cup actually failed. The pins that hold the 4 spider gears mashed into the sidewall on the Diff Cup. Therefore locking the diff and chipping some of the gears teeth. But you should have seen the "doughnuts" I was doing. It was literally like a Gyro, the faster I gassed it, the faster it spun. Spun so fast It was just a big blur. :lol: Crazy. So new Bevel gears are OTW and I will just go back to the Losi HD cup (on the rear). What a shame. The CD is holding up OK. |
No prob man...I found the springs, just gotta find the rest of the parts!
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I thought the same thing about the Aluminum Nova Cups Being bulletproof. The rear cup is useless after 1 pack and I just took the CD cup out to refill with a lighter fluid and give it a thorough inspection and it actually is starting to wear pin slots in the side of the cup as well...(at least a dozen runs or so) I can try to get a picture but Its not that cool :lol: Well there goes $40.
I will just go back to the Losi XXL HD plastic cup. I looked at the one I was using for over a year in the rear diff and it looks new...:whip: the ring and pinion also look brand new. :neutral: I guess those little metal inserts in the XXL really save the cup. I think a CNC cup designed after the XXL cup would be bulletproof, but not cheap to get CNC'd... |
Weird though since people have no issues with the nova cup at all. A 7075 cup cant be that soft. When exactly did you buy the cup? FYI, Nova changed the material to 6061 recently. Are yours 6061 of the 7075?
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Sadly its the new 6061 I have had the CD for maybe 2 months and the rear I bought about 3 weeks ago. Could be why. Big mistake on Nova's part to change... I would like to know though if the 7075 would've held up. 1717 - 6s - no slipper in a 13lb rig. I also swapped a Nova cup into the SC8ight and I have been blasting that rig so hard on 1520 - 6s - no slipper, for about 8 packs or so racing my dad. I will check it at about 15-20 and see how its holding up. But I doubt it will be bad as that was using a stock non HD plastic cup and it held up.
I guess I should have stuck to: If it 'Aint Broke; Dont Fix It. Another thing to note as well with the AL CD Cup. Its gets really f'ing hot man, like burn your ass hot. :lol: Never had a prob with the plastic one. |
Nice rigs. I plan on doing something similar with my rustler.
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Thank you! I really have to upgrade the slipper on it though. Its all old and worn out and the extra weight and power just make it squeal... :lol: The whole thing was actually really easy. The Rustler is a very simple and easy design to work with. Good Luck! Post it up when you get on it...
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WOOHOO! New D8T Came Today! Coming Soon...
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Well shoot, its been a year and a half.
Finally, rebuilding the Maxx with new suspension and 4mm pins. Rebuilt the 8ight to buggy form for now (1520 on 6s is just too fun on a 10lber!!!). Havent touched the Rustler/Baja. D8T was an awesome car with the 1717, built it, bashed it, finally broke it(minor=CVD & Shock end). I have to say that this was by far my best RC buy ever. This car is very tough and handled like a dream. Not to mention it was less than $250 for the kit. Gonna fix it for $30 or so and get a new body. Pics to come TEXT is BORING. |
Overall Shot:
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...pscecaba4c.jpg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...psb8e572b3.jpg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...psdd5916b6.jpg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps7337c661.jpg Got some Knockoff High Impact arms. Wish I had 2 sets of single shock arms but, oh well. I do have an extra pair of double shock arms though. Also got some GPM upper arms for $10 a pair shipped. Couldnt pass that up so I opted for them instead of some Wide Trac or FLM upper arms. I drilled the Hinge pin holes out on the UE knockoff arms to 5/32" or 3.96mm. and used some 5/32" hardened drill rod cut to size for hinge pins. cut a small slot on the pins and secured them with set screws. no more E-clips The GPM arms have a slghtly larger hinge pin hole already and used a small plastic bushing to ride on the actual pin. I ditched the plastic bushing and made an aluminum sleeve the takes up any slack between the Arm and the Hinge pin. I BETTER NOT BEND THESE PINS! http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...psf5a4ace0.jpg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...psd3794500.jpg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps82433fc1.jpg http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps2b044281.jpg |
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