Finally got to the track today, ran about 6 packs through it and it was awesome!
No trouble clearing a double to table top, plenty of straight away speed.
My handling was off a bit though, as I had a 2650 in it before, but once I made a few changes it was great.
After each pack I temp'd it 130-140.
I had it geared 15-50 running the center diff and Proline Caliber M4's
Great job CC!!!

Edit: I was geared 16/50

anyone having problems with this motor esc combo ?

heres my problem : (copied and posted this to a couple of places)

so i went out and bought one and put it in my hpi mini trophy. i ran it the 1st pack geared 14/87. truck was slow and every once in awhile it would cog and make a squeal noise and not move. i would have to get completely off the throttle to get it to go again. temps never got hot.could hold my finger on the motor for 10 + seconds.

so today i geared up 3 teeth. truck was faster but not omg faster.then it started doing the same thing, squealing noise and then i would have to get off the throttle to get it to go again. so after 5 minutes the truck stopped, no power, just steering. the esc thermaled and the motor was hot but i could still touch it (didnt temp it as i ran my other truck)...after the esc cooled i ran it again and it made the same noise but this time nothing got hot. i temped the motor after 4 minutes and it was 120.

i have to call castle to see whats going on, im not sure what that noise is. sounded like a seized bearing but this is only two runs, not even complete runs.

any one have nay ideas ?

...................

i talked to castle today and the tech said sounded like something was wrong with the motor. he told me they would send one out to me or if the local shop had another in stock they would send it to them so i didnt have to wait if the shop was ok with that and they were.

ill get this one in the truck and give it a whirl.

...................

well i got it together and went out today. 17/87 and it never got hot to where i couldnt touch it for more then 2-3 seconds and when i did temp it it never was above 120 degeress(motor) .the problem i have with temping mine is it takes so long to get the duratrax temp gauge in a place to read the motor temp it starts to cool down.with the cage and body its pia. so for now i am using the "touch" method.iam also not running the fan as there really is no room.(hpi mini trophey)

now for that noise...the squeal or chatter... i did hear it with this motor too but only twice and not as bad.

truck was faster with the same set up, gearing and battery just different systems (both cc sidewinder sc systems) so there was something wrong with the 1st one for sure...the second one with the same noise ? idk is this noise normal ?, is it a cogging noise ?(none like i heard before, coggin is usually a stuttering and a low ringing noise.this is a squeal.

on the truck i did notice the rear bearing on the gear box, the one that sits in the aluminum and is held in place by the top gear cover(its on the shaft with the spur and slipper) looks like it is spinning in the case, like the case isnt tight enough. the bearing isnt seized and i dont see how this can cause the truck to stop..

idk, its got me scratching my head. what your guys thoughts ?

Patric,
can you say a few words about timing guidelines for these 4 pole motors?
For example, how many degrees of timing will give maximal efficiancy?

Exactly right, the 1415/1Y that will be matched with a Mamba Max Pro is designed for 3 or 4s on a 4x4 Short course. More details will be available shortly, still waiting on the motors to come in from China. Expect them sometime before the end of the year.

Thomas Porfert
Tech Support
Castle Creations

RE: 1415/1Y
Is that production quantities coming in before year end, or test units?

What timing settings would reduce the cogging on start up (quite noticable). I'm running a Polyquest 5050mah 35C 2s Lipo in an SC10. Also using a Spektrum receiver cap, but would running an external BEC aid the cogging at all? Is the Sidewinder's PCB meant to feel like it's moving fairly freely around within the case?

Up your start power to start and see where that puts you. I usually run med on my setups and it takes care of the startup stutters. If you need more try playing with the timing as well.

After deciding that the SC10 was stupidly overpowered with this, I picked up an SCRT10 and transferred the gear over, stock gearing of 13/46.

Motor is a perfect fit for this truck, plenty of power, ran it for 5-10 mins outside (temp out 90f) Battery (5050mah 35C Enerland 2s) didn't get above ambient, motor peaked at 110f but the ESC hit 160f. As I'd stated in my ""mini review" the motor is awesome, the ESC not so much, and this just proves that again. Ordered a MM Pro as a permanent fix hopefully. Sorry but I don't think too much of this ESC so ebay it goes. Motor however is schweet!

Just bought a combo yesterday and put it in my SC10, I couldn't beat the price. My LHS has the combos for $100 and yesterday was there yearly sale where they take 20% off everything and I had a gift card, I walked out with it for $61. Now my SC10 pulls wheelies and I can save my spec motor for racing and not worry about temps.

I love the 1410 in my Slash 4x4 on 2s.I paired it with the MMP so never tried the SIdewinder.

60$ ??? That's luck....

Really it was $86.39 but I had a gift card for $25 so out of pocket for me was $61.39 after tax

heh..

Just assigned my sidewinder SC speedy to Slash 2wd duty with a 13.5 Brushless. LED's are now dim as all s#it as the BEC is obviously weaker than that of the VXL speedy (or lower voltage), standard 5mm LED's just 4 of them in RPM light buckets up front. Only changed the Castle in there so I could adjust esc timing.

Ended up using a BEC from the Balance tap of my battery direct to the LED's but still bloody disappointing once again on the ESC front. Even $30 Hobbywings have a 6V bec now don't they?

We went with a 5V BEC on the SCT -- for a very good reason.

There is a certain 2.4ghz receiver on the market that doesn't work right on 6V...

The Hobbywing ESCs use a standard dropout linear -- that means the pack voltage has to be 2V above the BEC voltage, otherwise the BEC voltage follows pack voltage minus 2V. Not really a good solution. But they use it cause its VERY CHEAP.

The SCT uses a low dropout reg, the dropout is about 1V at maximum BEC output power, less than half volt under normal usage.