Sick!

I received my chassis in the mail today.

only 46mm battery width

Back to modding battery trays.

Pretty disappointed with this.

Jamie did say he would allow it to accomodate the wider packs, but later in a phone conversation explained that in order to use wider packs, you need to trim the inside leg on the included stops, thereby using the chassis braces as the inner battery stop - not the most elegant solution I guess and not the initial plan as explained, but a workable solution.

Do I see custom machined delrin/nylon battery stops being sold in the RC-Monster store as an optional extra.... :intello:

I didn't get around to take pictures of it yet, but I have a major problem trying to install Traxxas 5151R center drive shafts with the stock brushless tranny.

My truck is built with the FLM10700 chassis, FLM bulk heads and UE 8 spider diffs with Ultralight cases. This:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...0/P1050199.JPG

Once the tranny is installed on the top plate and the drive shafts are installed on the output shaft, the rear dog bone (the long one) goes all the way into the rear diff drive cup but it still needs to go in about 5mm more before the screw holes on the top plate and the matching holes in the chassis braces lines up. Hope it makes sense - I'll try to take a picture soon.

I don't understand how this is suddenly a problem? I have two other E-Maxx chassis (including a GorillaMaxx G4) and I don't have this problem with the exact same tranny and driveshafts.

There are instructions included in the kit about trimming the stops. At least there was in mine. But I don't bother, I'll use velcro straps insted.

Do you have the UE / 1/8 scale diffs in those other trucks too?

The problem I found on my Gmaxx is that the UE diff 8mm input shafts are slightly longer that the input shaft on normal stock diffs, so the ends of the dogbones bind up when you tighten the transmission into place. I had to grind a good 1-2mm off each end of the front and rear dogbones so that they weren't binding up anymore and could spin freely.

Sounds like your traxxas cvds have the same issue maybe- you may have to run dogbones or regular plastic shafts instead...

Yep, have the UE 8 spider diffs in all three trucks.

Sounds like the problem you have experienced - I just don't think I can remove any material to make it fit. It would require that I removed something like 5mm or more... I will try to test fit with the FLM dog bones that came with the kit.

Right now I'm just very surprised it doesn't just fit. I had no idea there was a difference from using stock diffs and UE diffs. I wonder if 5151R center driveshafts will fit when using the new FLM Ultimate Hybrid bulks?

Well, I'll be... 'Using the dog bones that comes with the kit it all fits:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...0/DSC_7929.JPG

So everyone; you shouldn't plan on using Traxxas steel center drive shafts.

Looks great.
 

That rig looks great. I may have to get one of these onc we get home.

I dunno if you noticed, but you need to flip over/around one of your front upper a-arms... :whistle:

Good eye Neil.

That's why we post pictures of our builds, so the senior guys like Neil can point out our mistakes:lol: I think everything looks very good. It could be worse you could put one of your tires on backwards like I did:rofl:

I have FLM hybrids with Ofna gears (same as Ultimate hybrids) and I have the Traxxas Center shafts. I do have the stock Traxxas chassis (shouldn't make a difference) and the lengths are fine. Only issue with them is the pins on the end of the dog bone are smaller than a normal 1/8 dog bone. So the pins have a bit of play in the slots of the 1/8 Diff Cup, resulting in the Diff Cups wearing faster than normal.

It's first thing surprised me seeing gumleguf pics.
First feedback about the bottomplate of this chassis saw on rcm store was the "not enough" work on.

Will it always be provided with "high quality" bottom plate?

thanks for info :yes: