Welcome to the forums!

In a buggy, yeah, shimming could be a culprit. But in my case it,s on a Jato and the design is totally different. In my case, it only happens after reverse, brake, then trying to go forward and it doesn't matter if I go gentle on the throttle or mash it.

Also, people have found that when this "cogging" happens, the current draw is substantially higher than normal, which leads me to believe it's an ESC fault. I halso have a Revo with a Quark that does not have this problem so I tend to lean toward the ESC being at fault.

That is the cogging I see.

The first time at the track I only saw very basic cogging from a dead start. This was during a 10 minute B-main and then during a 15 minute A-main. This is with the Mamba Max on a Neu 1512 2.5D with 4S 5AH Enerland Li-Pos. I was quite hapy with the small amount of occasional cogging since the system is in a 8.5 pound Hyper 7 1/8 buggy.

I got the idea to crank up the drag brake from 20% to 40% so I could just let off the throttle on the turns, transfer the weight to the front, and make sharp turns. At the track it wound up being a bit too much so I went to 30% drag brake. What happened though was the occasional cogging was still there, but sometimes I could not get going forward at all again unless I gave it a push. In fact, the buggy crawls backwards a bit when doing this severe cogging. I drove over to my starting place for the main race starting and stopping a few times, but when it came time for the start of the race I was left shuttering moving slightly backwards. Luckily the nearby turn marshall gave me a push with his foot and off I went.

it doens't seem like the change in drag brake should have caused this, but since I never saw that problem on my previous visit to the track it makes me wonder. It was the ONLY change I made (timing, punch.... all the same). The severe cogging happened three or four times and I only ran the 10 minute B-main. Before the drag brake change I never saw it once with over twice the amount of time at the wheel.
I set it back to 20% and hope to get to the track for some practice runs this holiday break.

Matt

Sounds exactly like the cogging I saw on the Mamba with the Neu. The 2 polers run better on the quark. I know that CC is working on a software update to make it handle the multi pole motors better. But no ETA on it yet.

Just be careful with the cogging. Thats when mine when up in a cloud of smoke.

[QUOTE=jhautz] The 2 polers run better on the quark. QUOTE]

A presume you mean "4 Polers" not "2".

:032:

nope. I think he means 2pole. Cause the 4 pole neu had more cogging than
the 2 pole lmt. The lmt would spin tires while the other just cogged.

I was under the impression that the Quark handled the NEU's just fine. In fact Mike said his favorite combo is a Neu 1515 w/Quark.

Sorry for causing confision here. My brain was thinking Mamba Max and my fingers typed Quark. The post below should read:

Sounds exactly like the cogging I saw on the Mamba with the Neu. The 2 polers run better on the Mamba Max. I know that CC is working on a software update to make it handle the multi pole motors better. But no ETA on it yet.

Just be careful with the cogging. Thats when mine when up in a cloud of smoke.

Yeah the quark does. I was thinking CC to. DOH!!!
Should pay attention more.

Quark / Neu is a fantastic combo. No doubt about it.

It seems like it. Just don't feel comfortable dropping $650 on the combo w/ubec, heatsink, fans, etc. Ouch!

I love the combo just can't feel comfortable dropping that much $$$ on it knowing the MMM is coming and will have better programmability and higher voltage capabilities. It would come outa month after I bought the Quark. That kind of thing always seems to happen to me.

Right now I'm debating a MM on 12 cells with a xl or Lehner 1940/8 Hi-Amp then buying the MMM when it comes out and using the MM on another car/truck.

or

Doing the 9920 w/8xl or 1940/8 hiamp.

Either combo would keep the total cost around $450 or less if i use an RX pack (an I have a new NiMh 1400mah available to use).

The 9920 and 1940/8HA would also be an excelent setup. Go for it before the price on the 9920 goes back up. The 9920 is a much more suitable controller for a MT than a Mamaba Max, and its on $10 difference right now.

The 9920 is a nice controller. Too bad it doesn't have all the programming options that the MM has...

You could get the motor you plan to run with a mmm.
Then just get the esc when comes out and sell the esc you have.
Then again you may have another project going that will need esc. :D

That sounds like the right plan to me...:018:

I was in the same spot. If the Quark was a plug and play setup, I might have spent the extra cash on it but it seems like you still have to add a fan to the Quark if you want to get more than 5 or 10 minutes on it with a 1/8 vehicle. It also looked like the stock MOSFET to heatsink mounting needed a little work as several people said theirs started to come apart.
The Mamba Max software/control is the best out there. Let's just hope the Neu motor / 4 pole motor software upgrade is sooner than later.
Matt