Wouldn't wonder if thats the problem. :| Lots of jumping with the car and rough driving, maybe the paint from the heatsink wears out -> short circuit.

When i get new one from Castle, im pretty sure i'll open it and mod the heatsink. Tho its kinda expensive part to lose warranty. :( And there might be other problems with it too, still could break.

Personally, instead of modding the heatsink, I would just remove the connectors and solder the wires directly to the PCB...

I think on the V3 thread it was mentioned that the cups are going on the battery side which will allow them to provide more clearance for the heatsink on the motor side.

I would imagine the motor side won't change as the pics of teh CC motors show long leads with buid in connectors.

:Sigh: Will there EVER be an ESC out there that I won't feel the need to mod before use? Maybe I should have a company do all my "upgrades" to an existing ESC and add "limited BrianG edition". :lol:

While preparing for my bash this weekend, Jamie from FLM and I installed a V2 on Jamie's truggy. We set up a couple controllers "just in case" (dremel bottom of case, heat shrink the fan wires). While preparing 4 units for the weekend, we found a few units that had interference between the plugs and the heat sink(potential short). I set these units aside and made the minor modifications to only the controllers that did NOT have the interference.
Jamie used the same controller all weekend long without issue - using the internal BEC on 5s with a Fg 10xl initially and finally with a 70mm Medusa motor(sent to me for testing). My guess is that the "flaming controllers" are very likely a direct result of the potential short across the heatsink. The internal BEC is perhaps another story, but I still would think that the tight interference fit of the case is likely a potential issue on this as well(stressing the boards as others have mentioned). Jamie's controller had the interference issues addressed before use and has worked flawlessly for a weekend of racing and some 1 on 1 racing Monday and Tuesday - even in wet conditions he had no troubles(burnded out 2 receivers from the moisture, but the MMM stayed strong).
Castle posted that the v3 units will have plugs on one aide and hard-wired wires on the other - this should eliminate the potential short issue, as there seems to barely enough room for the heatsink and plugs - many of the units I have looked at had a potential short on one side or the other(too tight a space for the heatsink between the plugs). If Castle modifies the case bottom to provide more room and eliminate the interference, the controllers will likely be rock solid - seems to me the problems are largely mechanical and not likely a poor electronics design(pretty sure Castle knows what works on the electronics side of things at this point). :)

Excellent Info. There maybe a light at the end of the tunnel after all!

+1 on Failures (not violent this time) but another v2 mmm bites the dust.. This one was running great.. about 20-30minutes of use.. did a little hiccup or two then just died.. nothing wouldn't power up no matter what I did.

8ight Buggy conversion (tekno kit) using mechanical brakes and foward only
Medusa v2 2000kv (60mm)
15t/48t
dx3r
Polyquest (enerland) 30c 4s lipo

yAy

My Monster Max took a BIG hit today in my Slayer knocked off its mount and one of the motor wires unhooked/pulled apart I was expecting it to be dead when it woulndnt move.3 cartwheels.Took the top off hooked it back up and no damage and off it went no problems.

Just wanted to say that I have about 15 hours on my 2nd V2 and it is running great my second died in 20 minutes. The only mods I did was I shrinked the fan wire and bent back the heatsinks from the bullets, I was able to put shrink on the bullets on the battery side but not the motor side, as they were to close.

my unit number5 died today....run great 10hours!!!! (without fan)and it stop i the middle of a trottle swap....i open the case and i saw that one of the 3 capacitor is puffed!!!??????i really hope that castle find the problem......


get back to cc:party:

I've had 2 more fail since my initial vote.
One failed BEC and one failed up in flames running 6S on a 1.5D.

Add one last failure...

I just had another v2 fail...1515 1Y on 4S MaxAmps 8000MAH in an e-revo geared 22/58 with a UBEC. ran for ten minutes and just quit. Amber light was really dim and flickering.. Could disco batteries for a few and power it back up, but as soon as you hit the throttle, it would quit. Something smoked as you could smell it.
Just happened to be running an Eagletree V3 and can say that all levels were pretty much in line. Max Amp draw was 95 Amps. Voltage never dropped below about 14.5V. Motor RPM I think peaked out around 34K. Temps were all negligible.

me i have 5 failed(close to larrydino:lol:) since my initial vote!!!!!and now i have a working v1 unit in the mail!!!!its seems that the v1 are more reliable at long term use!?

Have about 3 runs through my MMM with no issues yet. Setup is E-revo with teckno Nue 1515/1y and polyquest 30c 5000mAH 2s lipos. I have no complaints and the power is amazing!!!!!

Mine works perfectly run after run, Neu 1515/1/y F, polyquest 4s. Updated it to firmware v1.18.

E Revo with Medusa 36-60-1500kv on 6S. Case Mod, No external BEC.

Is working GREAT. I love how the fan knows when to cool it off.

V2 dead at 61 hours of use. It died with a failed firmware update attempt going to V1.20. If said the attempt failed, but shows V1.20 is current when linked, and fails on any attempt to change firmware. It will not arm or even try to make tones. red led comes on very dim but power goes to the servo. When I opened the case I found the fan lead broken off the board too. Time to send it in for a V3!

I had no issues updating my V1 to 1.20. Other people have broken their fan plugs off but I don't think that theirs failed, they either ran without a fan or just used 3rd channel