i kno lol but whats the part #

#idontknobutanyoldbodypostwilldueyoujustgottafindo neandcutittofitityourself

:)

Still the best Savage5's I've seen.

I think Tamiya or Trinity or Dynamite makes body posts like that. Search Tower.

Thanks. And yes, I don't know what they were, but you can find any number of different sized body posts to cut down and use. Tower can be a great place to hunt for them.

ok ill try looking for some

I had my 5T out the other day and tooling around on 5S on the 2200kv motor, I felt it was still exhibiting too much weight transfer on the white springs. I've switched to running the yellow springs to see if that resolved some of the weight transfer and body roll issues (note I'm also running the black swaybars). I have a feeling that the 50 and 55 weight shock oil that I've been running is a bit too much, may drop down to 40 or 45 weight.

Yes!

A few updates the monster buggy... my attempts at steering mods!

Basically this was broken down into three phases. First was using the FLM drag link and making mods to the streeting linkage arm to allow for as much movement as possible:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TL...0/IMG_5048.JPG

Second was to modify the hubs and hub carries to remove any places that they were binding or were causing them to stop too soon.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TL...0/IMG_5053.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TL...0/IMG_5054.JPG

This got me a lot more throw than expected and the tie rods were binding on the suspension arm's rear shock mount tabs. Since I am using Flux shocks, I had no need for the tabs and was able to remove them.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TL...0/IMG_5061.JPG

There are a few more pictures in the gallery.

I should note that even with the mods, the servo is still well under its full movement so there shouldn't be an issues with the servo. I'm also using the heavy duty servo saver spring.

And yes, my monster buggy is a bit dirty... :)

Well after having broken a number of the Savage XL axles at the start of the threads (See below) I got some "custom axles" made to use the standard Baja 5B 24mm hubs. The 5B hubs are 12mm, instead of the 8mm for the Savage X/XL axles, and they use a 4mm pin.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TE...Damage.png.jpg

So essentially I got a new pin hole bored in the axle, and a spacer made (8mm ID and 12mm OD).

Here are the seperate parts..

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TO...0/IMG_5101.JPG

Partially put together
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TO...0/IMG_5099.JPG

Complete assembly and comparison shot.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TO...0/IMG_5105.JPG

This has lost me about 6mm on the XL width (3mm on each side). Not too bad of tradeoff for what seem like a bit sturdier solution.

Next phase is implementing a center diff. Doing this for a couple of reasons; a) to mount the 1520 motor, b) better turning, c) remove the tranny, d) because I want to! Granted I can grind out the chassis to allow the 1520 motor to fit, but really with the TVPs its a PITA to work on.

Replacing the Savage tranny with a center diff means you lose the gear reduction of the tranny. So now you need to run large spurs (50, 52, 54) with small pinions (8, 9, 10, 11).

I have all the spurs, as I was planning to use a RC8T center diff [because I have an RC8T], but smallest mod 1 pinions I've found is a 9. But really these are getting small and bit worried about them holding up frankly.

So my next option was to explore using different front/rear diffs. Someone once mentioned to me that the Lightning Stadium Pro diffs should fit. So I went and look up part numbers, but also ended up checking out some other HP and Hot Body vehicles. And dang the HP Vorza and HB Lightning Pro diff internals looked much the same, both being spiral cut too, and you could use center dogbones to boot. So I ordered some, and low and behold the 43 tooth ring gear fits on a Savage diff using the Flux/XL diff cups. And it fits into the bulkhead needing only minor shimming. The 10t spiral cut bevel gear fit, but has a bit of play (About an 1/8th of an inch or so) that needs to get taken care of. But nothing insurmountable at all. The 43t ring is much thicker than even the bulletproof diff, so with a good shim I don't see any issues using these in the Savage under 6S. Especially considering they are used in the Vorza and I run spiral cut diffs in my RC8T and haven't had issues.

So now with using the 4.3:1 ratio front/rear diffs I can run one of the smaller center diff spurs (50) and play with 12-15 tooth pinions.

I'll post some pics tonight with everything mocked up.

I am using the BP diffs and running a 47t centre diff spur... and i run 12-14t pinions.

I am considering staying at 13t as it is a good all rounder... but i am able to run 15t and maintain warm decent temps on road....

edit

forgot to mention, i am using a 1520 too and only run 6s

Well I am going to be running 6.84" tires. 47/12 is like estimated 57. I was targeting around the 40-45mph zone. And thats about 50 with a 10 or 11 pinion on 6S with 1520; estimating for speed loss due to weight, restistance, etc, etc. Even running a 54 still means an 11 or 12t pinion.

Switching to 4.3:1 diffs means I can run a 50 with 13-15 pinions. 50/13 gives me a rollout of 1.3 which is just about the rollout of the stock Flux at 1.28 I think it is. Just using that as a ballpark base setup.

Oh and I almost never drive onroad... thats boring to me; if I want onroad action I'll strap myself in and go run laps on iRacing; the best PC level consumer oriented racing simulator on the planet.

haha fair enough bud...

you know what you need to do considering your running some tall chunky tyres/rims...

When i was geared for 53mph on my savage according to the speed calcs.... i was getting an actual top speed of 44mph according to multiple radar guns... That was with badland tyres... maybe that will help you decide your gearing a little.... Oh and my temps were in the 110-120 degreeF range... so running very cool still.... i am have yet to push this motor temps apart from one time when i accidently geared my motor to 75mph but that was a little mistake...

Well yeah thats why I'm estimating about 5mph speed loss over the 'estimated top speed'.

So here's the battle plan for the center diff TVPs. A bit of a different approach. Notice the lack of 'rollbars' built into the TVP. I'm planning on running the Baja rollbars instead so thats some of the reason for the design.

Here are the TVPs. Right now I have it using two 3S batteries inside the rails forward of the center diff. I was debating between the twin batteries, or doing a single battery like I have now that sits just over the top of the drive shaft. But I thought that it might be better to move the weight lower; also using 3S, vs. a 6S, gives me more options to use batteries in other vehicles too.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TQ...I/s800/tvp.jpg

And here is the new bulkhead/diff plate/motor plate. This will replace the existing Savage rear bulkhead plate. It will hold the center diff using a standard truggy/buggy diff mount. The rear portion of the plate is extended to hold an anchor system for the Baja 5B rollbars.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TQ...motorplate.jpg

And here is the Vorza 43t ring gear on a Savage diff...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TQ...00/43tDiff.jpg

And how it sits in the bulkhead...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TQ...0/IMG_5129.JPG

I cannot wait to see this come to life...

The diffs look good but i am a little worried... I just dont thing that these vorza diffs will work too well if you house them in the plastic savage bulks. The flex of the bulks under 6s load with the torquey 1520 motor will cause you diff problems i think... Hence why the BP diffs were introduced.
BUT
These definitely would work very well if you use alloy bulks which allow no flex of the ring and pinion...

For example....

The old stock HD Ring and Pinion gears (before the BP gears came around) were being sold with the flux... but in the plastic bulks constantly failed... Teeth chipped, pinions broke, bla bla bla... BUT i put them in some ALLOY GH Bulks... and even with the extra torque... and my nose heavy DB-17 chassis that keeps the front down and puts the power down... the diffs always survived as they dont allow any flex and my diff probs are a thing of the past...

Actually i am not definitely considering trying this vorza diff mod in some alloy GH Bulks! I like the idea of running larger pinions!
So is this just a vorza ring gear on a savage alloy bulk and the stock SHD cup outputs?

Thanks bud!

There isnt a comparison with these or the "bulletproof" diff rings and the original Savage rings.

As an FYI, the Vorza has plastic bulks, not to mention almost every truggy has plastic bulks (not to mention most of the truggies and buggies have plastic diff cases); although granted most of the truggies/buggies were designed for nitro power. TBut then again I havent had issues with 5 or 6S on my RC8Te. So not really sure that alloy bulks are necessary but I guess well find out eventually.

What is pictured is a Vorza/D8/Ve8/LightningStadiumSport ring gear (HBC9010), attached to a standard Savage X diff with the XL/Flux SHD drive cups. It does require a 8x16 bearing on the ring gear instead of the 11x16 that the bulletproof ring gear uses.

That is true regarding the plastic bulks... But none of the mentioned RCs are anywhere near as heavy as a savage nor do they use wheels and tyres as heavy as you intend to use.

I dont know why i had so many probs with my plastic bulks and 1520 motor... But since running GH Alloy bulks... all my probs are a thing of the past...

Anyway.. lets see how this badass truck turns out

Valid point... with one exception; I've been running my truggy with ProLine Badlands on Maximizer beadlocks or ProLine Trenchers. Both are fairly close in weight so well see. Also remember I'm only planning on running under 6S power.

Like I said, we'll see. If it ends up needing alloy bulks, so be it; good news is the 43t ring gear is going to be readily available since its used in the Vorza plus a bunch of HB vehicles.

Oh I forgot to mention that what is pictured is the HTBC9009 10t spiral pinion and the HBC8068 cup from the LightningStadiumSport. I hadnt thought of the Vorza until a bit later, but you can probably use the 67499 10t spiral pinion and the 103663 cup from the Vorza. The latter should work with the standard Savage drive dogbones but haven't tried them.

As reference...

ProLine Badlands on Maximizer beadlock wheels: 12oz
ProLine Trenchers on Tech 5 wheels: 13 7/8 oz
ProLine Baja BowTies on ProLine SplitSix beadlock wheels: 18 1/8oz

Dont have my BigJoes on Axial beadlocks but pretty sure they are somewhere between Trenchers and Baja Bowties.

Re the FLM drag link hitting on the steering arm. I have the black metal sleeves that go in the drag link around the other way. The top of the sleeve then creates a little clearance between the drag link and the arm allowing it to move enough for normal steering.

I am interested in seeing the results of those spiral gears. Hope you have more luck than this guy. I'm happy with center diff using 52/11 atm but i guess you would need a lower ratio for the heavier vehicle.

The flat rear bulkhead plate is good simple idea. Keeps the rear diff in normal orientation but allows the bottom of TVPs to be completely flat. Would make it easy to add a bottom skidplate the entire length of the TVPs.

Yeah I tried the sleeves both ways. Once I assembled it all though I've got something else binding because the drag link isn't going full lock to lock. Probably going end up going to truggy arms eventually anyways.

Yeah, we'll see. Read through the thread you referenced, but hadn't thought about the bevel pinion sliding in like that. Havent had that issue with the truggy, so I guess well see.

Well thats the backup plan.. go back to bulletproof diffs and run either a 52 or 54 spur with a 9-11 pinion.

Yeah, thats what I was thinking. Use something cheap to make a long skidplate for it.

Top view of the mockup of the custom TVPs showing the front 5T dogbone from TCS Crawlers, an RC8T center diff, and a New Era extended Savage dogbone (120mm).

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TS...0/IMG_5132.JPG

The New Era extended Savage dogbone was the longest 8mm ball dogbone I could find and I was trying to avoid going the custom dogbone route. Unfortunately between the two dogbones and the center diff, the chassis is about 8mm too long. So that basically takes the 22.4" wheelbase down to a 22" wheelbase. Not that huge of deal.

Because someone asked for the measurements for the sleeve that allows the 24mm hex hub from the Baja 5B to work with the Savage XL axle.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_d...hubmod.png.jpg

Given your experience with std savvy hex adapter failures, and your mod to allow baja adapter I wonder what you think about having 8mm axles in a savage?

Looks like the small stock hpi pin casue the failures on the hex adapters. Just not enough material and the slot wanted to cam off the pin the whole time it was under load.

I see the setup you have now as much better, as long as the xl axles will survive.

I plan to use an 8mm truggy style setup, and hope it will last better under power.

Any thoughts on this?

I think 8mm is ok, I haven't bent any axles yet. But the Savage axle is just a damn stupid design that introduces a huge weak point at the threads. They needed to have gone standard buggy/truggy style with the axles.

As for the ProLines I think it was two-fold. First, soft material used and poor design by ProLine as their attempts to lighten the hub just made it weak. But yes I agree that the pin diameter is too small and the pin is frankly too short so there is very little area to spread the force on and that was the second part of the issue. The 24mm hex adapters from HPI, although suffering from the poor axle design, are much beefier with a better design. I did run these for a bit, before breaking another axle, and the hubs did hold up.

I do like the Baja 24mm hex adapters as, like most buggy/truggy, its a pin through design with a thick pin so there is a fair amount of area to transfer the force through.

If I could get some 17mm to 24mm adapters I would probably switch to truggy arms myself. My only thought of the truggy arms would be that they are made for racing so will be stiffer, which means they may break more often under extreme bashing than the more flexible Savage arms. I may do this for my nitro/brushless transformer Savage... haven't decided; debating between that and doing a straight axle (using twin-force axles) based MT.

I've been following your LST thread, looks promising.

Good info.

I do remember you mentioning breaking the hpi axles. I do agree that the adapters are a bad idea, and the entire axle needs to be changed.

Pity hpi does not make a kit like this to fit the shd dogbones:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKZR3&P=OW

Or something like this to replace them with cvds:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLHF4&P=OW

Yeah... what they really need to do is replace the Savage suspension and graft on the D8T arms instead. :)

They need a wide arm setup with 8mm axle cvds and a better hub design with increased steering throw for the savage. And fixed rear hubs as an option too. And upper arms with turnbuckles that match the wide arms. The could stick with the c hub setup they have now, just some wider hubs with larger bearings spaced farther apart for better load handling.

Can't wait for the cen stuff to come in, looking at the pics and diagrams that really looks like the hot ticket.

hmmm only time will tell about the CEN parts!

Be interested to see what measurements you get .

From my measurements for suspension width, with the suspension flat on the ground, from outside hex to outside hex:

Savage X: 14.25"
Savage XL: 15.25"
RC8T: 15.125"

I was a bit surprised by this. But on the flip side, the suspension arm is longer so the you should have more suspension travel. Also, the axles and extenders are far more robust than the Savage junk. Unfortunately not viable yet for the build as no one has made any 17mm-24mm hex adapters.

Made some changes. First off, I had to shorten the chassis by 8mm in order to use dogbones that I could find; although I may have found somewhere to do custom dogbones so I may change it back.

If I looked at 3S, or 6S, I could definetly fit doubles within the frames, but would need to have the batteries (obviously with 5 or 6S block; 5S being what I'm running now) positioned over the drive shaft. As part of the process of creating new frames, I wanted to reduce the CoG so was hoping to run the batteries on either side of the drive shaft low in the frame. This meant 3S batteries. There is about 30mm clearance (driveshaft is thicker than the standard Savage) on either side of the driveshaft which is enough for most 3S 40C ~5000mah batteries.

But with the Mamba XL having come out, and having 8S max with motor braking, I wanted the ability to not only run 6S but to also run 8S batteries. After sampling the various 40C or above, 5000+ or above 4S batteries I realized I needed at most 50mm wide area for the batteries. Unfortunately since the Savage TVPs are only 73.75 mm wide from inside to inside, that means that two 4S batteries won't work as most of the batteries were around 40-45mm wide!

So what I did was refactor where I was going to put and mount the batteries. In the forward section, I create two cutouts that leave room for two 3S or 4S to sit on either side of the driveshaft. The cutouts mean that the batteries will extend beyond the TVPs, but that shouldn't be an issue nor should the cut-outs as I plan to use 4.5mm carbon fiber for the frames. A bottom plate, cut out of CF again, will act as the battery holder and as a skid plate of sorts too.

Will need to create some type of guard that surrounds the outside of the batteries and attaches to the TVPs to keep the soft packs from being damaged; either that or will need to construct some battery shells for soft packs or just use hardcase 3S when running 6S.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_d...Image2.png.jpg

I like this design also. More than 5b design. I made one just like that for an Austrian guy. With transmission of course :)
I see also, that you wont need a skid plate as your chassis will be almost completely sealed at the bottom. Nice work.




Dejan

Yeah, this is my build thread... thanks!

Well I've been pondering what I want to do with this. I keep wanting to add truggy features to it, i.e. truggy diff cases (D8/D8T/etc), center diff, swapping to diff arms, etc. Not to mention the issues with fitting 8S between the rails. The above solution seems best, but I am just not content with it.

So I began to wonder why not just go with a truggy (my RC8T) to began with. The issue is I really want to run the Baja 5B tires/wheels. But there aren't any 24mm adapters; after poking around I found that Integy, yup the same, makes some extenders for "buggies" and a different couple of options; so I picked them up to see.

First is this.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...155&p_catid=75

However, this don't work as when the wheels are added there aren't any threads left to thread the nut on.

Second is this.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...31&p_catid=102

Well for my case, they were two wide so the pin wouldn't line up with the hole in the axle.

Third is this.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...539&p_catid=93

Ah! They work; almost... had to grind a tad off the end to get the pin to match up, not too much and not where it will seriously hamper things. They are pretty well machined and very beefy, much more so than the standard RC8T axle extensions, but its probably made of the standard crummy alloy Integy uses. The one thing I really don't like is that all that keeps the pin in, and its a standard pin through design, is a large o-ring. I should note that these come with two sets of pin holes, the 3mm for like the RC8T and a slightly smaller set; the pin holes are perpendicular to each other. So these should fit the LST/LST2/LSTXXL, most 8th scale truggies and buggies, plus probably some more. Savage not so much.

These things are wide! From the outside of the bearing to the outside of the hex, the standard RC8T axle extension is 18.75mm. These are 38.5mm. So thats a 39.5mm, 19.75 per side, of extension! Not quite sure I needed that, could use probably just 20mm. Total width, outside hex to outside hex, is 422.25mm.

Here they are in comparison to the standard RC8T axle extensions...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_d...Image1.png.jpg

And here they are on the truck... need to pull it apart and get a comparison shot between the two.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_d...G_5165.png.jpg

Obviously these are 23mm hexes, so need some metal tape to take up the slack for use with the 24mm Baja wheels. The biggest issue is that the threaded shank is only 9.5mm as compared to the 24mm Baja hex hub which has a threaded shank of 12.5mm. So the nut won't fully thread onto the shank. As a reference, the thickness of the wheel is 4.5mm for some ProLine Tech 5 wheels as compared to 6.5mm for the ProLine Desperado wheels. Basically there is about 3.4mm of thread outside the Desperado wheel and the hex nut is 6mm thick; slight issue. Suppose I could grind down the wheel about 2mm; wouldn't be prefect but still.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_d...0/IMG_5173.JPG

Now, if I could only find someone who could machine me a set of these, about 19mm shorter, and with 24mm hubs and 12.5mm threaded shank it'd be prefect.

For reference, the pin through design for the RC8T has a pin that is 3mm diameter and 16.5mm long; not quite the 4mm that the Baja uses, but its slightly thicker and definetly longer than the standard Savage pin.

And just some shots with the 5B tires mounted...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_d...0/IMG_5168.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_d...0/IMG_5170.JPG

Can u maybe provide info about the tire/ rim, front and back?

How tall are tires, what is the weight of the rear combo and front combo?
Dosent look much offset by the rims alone?

How do u like them?

They are Baja 5B tires/wheels; specifically the ProLine Badlands tires and Desperado wheels. Somewhere in this thread I believe I provided the weight. None of the wheels I've seen for the Baja 5B, I haven't looked at the truck wheels as I think those are just too big for an 8th scale platform, have any offset. But as an FYI, neither do the 3.8" Trenchers.

I like them for a large "buggy" platform because they have a low sidewall, so it drives more like you'd expect a buggy to as opposed to say a monster truck.

I have been desperately looking for an ideal tire for the savage... I wanted to maintain truggy handling... and like you said, it is important to keep the side wall low. Yes those trenchers are huge but the side wall is massive! I HATE ROLL OVERS!
i think the proline baja tyres are great! (people dont like them on heavier bajas as they wear quickly, but they should be perfect on the savage)... also with the powerful brushless systems, there isnt a worry about moving these tyres :wink: and i believe the heavier wheel/tyre combo def gives more stability at speed...


edit

just had a re read of your entire thread! I love how you have tried to play around with the truck so much!!!
You are going the CEN arm way, and i have tried the LST Arm direction... We can compare which hubs work best with these tyres haha
What do you think?
Also with your experience with your tyres, how have you found them in corners? do they slide a little or is there so much side bite that they grip and force you to roll over?

On asphalt it does have a tendency to roll over in sharp cornering. But I attribute that to the higher CoG on both the TVP design, the higher placement of the motor in the Flux TVP design, and the batteries being over the driveshaft, and a bit with the width of the truck even with XL axles.

Offroad I've really had no issues.

Since I'm looking at turning my truggy into a 5th scale (mostly because I found myself trying to truggify the Savage so why not start with a truggy intead), I turned by Savage back into a standard sized Flux to run on 4S (for now); got one lid painted up and this how it ended up...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_d...0/IMG_5213.JPG

Some non-standard features...

TCS Crawler TVPs (until I decide what I want in custom carbon ones to fab up)
ProLine Trencher tires on Tech 5 wheels (love the look of these mounted up)
Integy rear-hubs
FLM Drag Link (http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...lm48000&cat=22)
FLM Skid Brace (http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...lm47500&cat=22)
Spektrum DX3S/3100R transmitter/receiver
Running 47/19 ratio (may go up to 47/20... if I want tons of speed, I can whip out the truggy)
HD Drive Gear 18-23T (102514)
Yellow springs and 50W oil
Modified steering hubs (see further up this thread)

Will be looking at swapping to using truggy-style hex hubs instead on modified XL axles. Also when I rebuild the diffs I'll swap to using the Vorza/D8 cups and HD internals.

May eventually put a 1518 (my 1520 is going in the 5th scale) with the GCM 42mm motor mount.

This is just planned to run on 2S or 3S; nothing too wild.