Thanks!

My brain is constantly thinking about custom projects and various things, so I was seeing how the MGT arms compare to the Maxx arms for a possible custom project down the road.

you see right Krawlin :yes: (and you really help me for explain this :whistle:) I just add the spring.. I found this idea on MaximumMT ( french forum ...and here if you want to see some pics of my MTA4:eyes:)

and do you think we can mount a MAXX A-arm on MGT ?? (I'm thinking about the true track kit form RPM )

Alright, some exact MGT arm measurements for ya....


Lower arm width at hinge pin holes - 1.910'', 48.51mm

Lower arm overall length from tip to tip - 5.406'' (5 13/32''), 137.312mm

Upper arm width at hinge pin holes - 2.755'', 69.977mm

Upper arm overall length from tip to tip - 4.945'', 125.603mm


Lower arm has 3 stubs for the hinge pin to go through, Maxx has 2. Upper arm have 2 small stubs and 1 large stub for the hinge pin to go through, Maxx has 4 small ones. Maxx upper arm has material running between the shocks, MGT stock upper arm does not (RPM MGT arms do though).

Hope this helps some!



One cool property that I found about the MGT arms is they can be melted back together and be used for quite some time after if done right. Not long after I got the truck (about 6 years ago, it was an original .21 MGT), I let my dad try it out, and he ran it into a tree within the first 2 minutes of running it, snapped the upper arm in 2 places. Used a soldering iron with large thin/flat tip, got it nice and hot, stuck it between the two pieces and let them melt pretty good then pulled the iron out and together and clamped the arm in a vice for a few minutes while it cooled. did that with the other area where it snapped and was able to put it all back together and I got quite a few runs from that arm before it snapped again. So with the stock MGT arms, if you want to keep running and don't have a spare and don't want to wait for another one in the mail, that works well in that kind of situation. I've never tried this with RPM arms or stock Maxx arms before though.

Thank you for the measurements, I really appreciate it!

Got my new chassis and dog bones in the mail today, putting the truck back together now. Nitrohouse fails though, they don't measure dog bones pin center to pin center apparently, so I bought a 115mm dog bone assuming that it was pin center to pin center length, and it's not, so now I'm thinking it isn't going to be long enough, but I better finish assembling the truck before I jump to conclusions here....

Anyway, here are a few pictures of the new chassis next to the old one -

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1394.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1395.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1396.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/DSCN1397.jpg

So this Hyper 9 1.o dog bone is too short for sure, just put the truck back together with the center diff where I want it and it's about 5mm short.... I spoke too soon about them being perfect I guess. However, I am going to blame nitrohouse for this one since they do not specify if they measure shafts from pin center to pin center or from tip to tip, and the "normal and most used" method is pin center to pin center, and they measure from tip to tip. I need a dog bone that is 113mm to 115mm pin center to pin center. And this Hyper 9 1.0 shaft is actually 107.5mm pin center to pin center. So the search continues......

:oh:
this is a really bad luck.... :neutral:

Why not have Mike make you a dogbone? Or can you find some extended drive cups?

Cut and sleeve it, do you want that chassis shined' up :)

Seems like he takes quite a while to do custom stuff and I don't really want to wait that long. I have been hunting for some extended drive cups though, no luck yet.


I was thinking about doing that, its finding sleeve with the right inner diameter in a reasonable length (McMaster only sells what I need in 6 foot sections) with a large outer diameter to be strong that seems to be the problem. What McMaster has is .152'' inner diameter tube, which is perfect, but the wall thickness is .049'' / 3/64'' or 1mm, which is relatively small.

Maybe its your lucky day, Krawlin. I happened to see this thread and checked my pile of dogbones(I always make several if I make any) - I happen to have a steel, black oxide coated bone here that is about 114mm pin to pin length - seems perfect according to your posted dimensions. If you want it, you can order 15 of the RC-Monster custom/misc. parts through the store and it will ship Monday. :)

^^ LUCKY!!

Good find Mike!

Just ordered 15 of the RCM custom/misc. parts and I put "114mm dogbone driveshaft for Krawlin from the RCM Forums" in the box where you say what the part is. Thank you so much Mike! You've saved me alot of time and money with this! I don't know of any other online RC parts stores that have an owner that would do this, seriously, thank you!

that's really nice !!! :great::great::great::great:

Yep more than just lucky. Way to go MonsterMike!

Just got that dog-bone drive shaft from RC-Monster Mike, and it's perfect!!! Mocked it all up, fits just right, can't pop out and its long enough where its not riding right on the edge of the drive cup. Thanks again RCM Mike! I don't know of any other online RC store owner that would do that for some random member out of thousands on their forum, that's by far the best customer service I've had for a long long time.

any update ?? :whistle:

Nothing yet, I still have to clearance the chassis for the spur gear and I haven't had time to do that lately. Maybe sometime next week I'll do that and put it all back together.

here's the little update....:whistle:

The V2 motor mount....

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/598...237800x600.jpg

I'm gonna take it this afternoon :yipi::yipi:

Ooooh, now thats a clever bit of design, looks beautiful too.

:tongue:now if there was only some one that would make these MGT conversions kits for sale.

**hint hint** :wink: :lol:

Hi

medina619: be patient man, I said there's maybe some kit for sale in few times... but we need to be sure about the kit...:neutral:

just some pics

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020878.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020882.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020872.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020870.jpg

but today when I just starting to run my pinion slip away
the reason here....

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1020881.jpg

so I'm waiting for a 11T Robinson pinion...and a spider differential....:intello:

tomorrow I'll start the body,:eyes:

I hear ya. Im just anxiously waiting :yipi:

I haven't even done anything with my MGT for over a month :oops:. All I really need to do to it though is solder connectors to my other Turnigy battery since one of them puffed, clearance the chassis for the spur gear, and put it all back together. Been busy with alot of other stuff lately though which is why I haven't really gotten around to it. If I could get access to a CNC mill or even a manual mill, I would machine mine out of a single piece of stainless steel or aluminum rather than welding steel pieces together like I do now just for the cool factor.

TheDude, that motor mount looks awesome, great design, I like it! Have any new videos of it?

Hi Krawlin'

thanks for the compliments :great:

No another vid, cause I don't have enough time...:cry: (the body is still waiting...)

I just receive my Spider diff and ...it don't fit at all !!! :no::grrrrrr::eyes:
too long , and there's no other spur gear than 52 or 48T.... maybe we gonna do another version.........but before I'm gonna try with 10/48...:neutral:

I'll have some updates on this soon with pics, but so far, I've gotten the chassis clearanced for the spur gear (and I did it right with a carving bit and router base attachment for my Dremel, almost looks like it was done on a mill!), everything turns freely, no binding or contact of the spur gear and chassis at all. Will finish re-assembling it soon when I have some more time, I need to do some more work on the motor mount to really call it finished, and then I'll get to run it again. Pics will be posted in a few days.

Waiting for the pics :yes::intello:

nice to see that you find the time to do it :yipi:

and have you a pic of your dremel tool ?

I can't wait to see how it turns out. I still have one of the original trucks as well. I'm starting to get on the electric bandwagon as well. It would be great to see a list of everything used when your done. Great job.

Sorry for the lack of updates lately, been busy with work (welding shop) and welding classes. Learning to TIG weld though, so there might be a TIG welded stainless steel version of my motor mount in the next few months.



To volsfan...

Thanks for the compliments! As far as everything I used, well it wasn't much really, but here ya go -

- stock Monster GT (original .21 version)

- 3/16'' steel plate cut out on a CNC plasma cutting table (PlasmaCam) and MIG welded together

- OFNA K-Type center diff from an OFNA Ultra MBX Comp/Ultra LX One buggy

- OFNA 51 tooth spur gear for the K-Type center diff

- Integy aluminum center diff mounts for an OFNA Ultra LX One

- Castle Mamba Monster Max ESC

- Tekin T8 1550Kv truggy motor

- Ace DS1015 steering servo (not shown in pictures, just purchased)

- Golden Horizons (GH) aluminum steering setup with built in cam type servo saver

- GorillaMaxx battery straps

- (2x) 3S Turnigy 4000mAh 40C/50C LiPo batteries

- 114mm (pin center to pin center) rear center dogbone from RCM

- 91mm (pin center to pin center) from center dogbone from HotBodies/HPI


Other than some various screws/hardware I ordered from McMaster to use on this truck, what is in the list above is all I used.

just a pic with the new body... not a great job..i know, but it's my first attempt...
and a new set of tire (I bought a used Summit for my wife and it in the pack...:intello:
.. and a new motor.... with the sale of Castle I bought a 1520/1Y !! :yipi:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1000194.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/P1000193.jpg

and My friend gonna send a set of modified RPM Knuckles for using Hellfire stub axles

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...4/IMG_1128.jpg

more pics soon
and if the sun come back...maybe a new vid.... :neutral:

Looks awesome!

Haven't had an update for my MGT in quite a while, but that's going to change pretty soon, as I am getting ready to purchase a mini mill, and will be machining a new center diff motor mount from either a solid billet of 6061, or 7075-T6 1/4'' plate. Speaking of which, I was recently given a 1/4'' thick, 29'' x 42 1/4'' piece of 7075-T6 aluminum for free.... the perks of working at a welding shop. :party: Should be plenty to keep me busy for quite a while. Anyway, look forward to seeing a machined version of my motor mount within about the next month or so. In the mean time, I will be putting the truck back together, cleaning it up, etc.

:yipi: subscribed

I want to hear about the RPM and HPI suspension trial.

There is a tutorial about how to do this over on URC I believe, requires a mill I believe though (Or a drill press with the correct size of endmill). From what I've read it seems like everyone has had good results, no strength problems. Not sure if the same can be done with Maxx RPM knuckles though, I'm assuming you want to do something like this to your truggy-maxx Kcaz?


More info here, scroll down and they show a 16mm drill bit modified to drill out the bearing holes for standard 8x16 bearings. http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/MGT-RPM_Knuck_Mod.htm

Updates coming soon!

UPS dropped off the tooling for my mini mill yesterday, and finally its back in stock tonight so I just dropped the ball and ordered the mill, should have it in the next week or two, can't wait! This is the mill that I bought, should be good as my first one, planning on upgrading to a Bridgeport many years down the road when funds and garage space allow. :lol: Link to the one I bought - https://www.littlemachineshop.com/pr...ProductID=3900

Thats a sweet looking mini-mill, should be able to churn out some nice parts with that :yes:

One of the best upgrades I did for my Monster GT was the servo saver upgrade.
I don't even know if still can get these.
Looks good though.
Got almost 2 complete MGT sitting around now.

If you mean the Factory Team cam type servo saver & aluminum steering setup, I'm pretty sure you can still get those. I know GH also makes the same thing, which I bought for mine.


Should be picking up my mini mill tomorrow if the trucking line terminal is open (asked them on the phone if they were open on weekends and the guy said they are but didn't give me the hours so hopefully ill be able to pick it up). I'll be sure to get lots of pictures of the mill and tooling I have for it and such once I get it all setup. Can't wait to start using it though, I've wanted a mill for years and I'm finally getting one.