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Hmmm ill probably pick up the alloy tape as it is more of a long term solution that wont cause me problems....
But i think i used the coke can method one time before, and it worked very well before Cheers guys! |
Hi Brian, keeping your thread alive here haa
My pistix has just arrived... and instead of starting a new thread... i was hoping you could help me. Where abouts would it go and is there any programing i need to do to get it to work? Thanks Bud Josh |
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Your pistix should have included instructions that explain how to set your throttle trim using a servo in place of your esc. I'm not sure its really necessary - since I've adjusted my trim since I did that and it still works fine. Anyway, the pistix should simply plug in between your esc and rx. Let me know if you have more questions. -brian |
Cheers Brian!! ill let you know.
Are any of your problems ESC/Motor related or weight issues? i wouldnt mind knowing as i could learn from what you have experienced and hopefully avoid such problems? Thanks for the help!!! |
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:cry: I also replaced the center diff cup because I thought that was the problem initially - it got pretty hot a few times and the plastic hd case seemed to be deforming slightly - but I don't think it was really a problem, because the internal gears were OK. I also had drive shaft screws come loose from the front and rear diff pinions on separate occasions - meaning I had to stop driving and come home to fix them - now they're loctited - so hopefully it won't happen again. Anyways, I've been working on this much more than driving it recently - keeping me from my other build. :diablo: |
Thanks for the info bud... it just reminds me to locktite as i go... THere are many things i havent loctited because i continuously rip it apart and put it back together.
The only weak spot at the moment, which i believe wont cause problem, are my front and rear plastic diff cup cases. they are from a vorza and very tough. And allows me to use my BP Savage Ring gear and hardened internls which are tougher than a stock savage... Plus i use two larger 8x16x5mm bearings instead of the old alloy cup bearing which was 10x16x5mm. Im sure the cup will handle the power. My CD is a spider diff, so should be all gd there. Hopefully you get it all put together soon! Any update on how you found the handling with the narrower front hubs you shortened? There is a guy that may do mine and shorten them to 20mm rather than 30mm. Think it is a good idea? |
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Hi Brian, back in for some help pleaseeee
I am just setting up my castle link on my ice hv160. I am a little unsure as to how i should have it set up??? Under the following settings Throttle "Vehicle type" & Specific settings for that type. Cutoffs "Current Limiting" Motor "Motor Startup Power" - I set for low "Motor Timing" - did you have normal or low? "PWM Rate" - what is this? and what should it be set at? im now running Version 3.26 beta - is that what you are running? or an older version? Thanks Brian! Josh |
Josh, I left many of the settings on default to start. Playing with a few of the settings really made no noticeable difference to me.
Here are my current settings on the ICE hv160: Vehicle type: airplane Throttle response: medium (5) Auto-lipo; 3.2v; hard cutoff Motor: medium start power (59) motor timing: normal (5) pwm rate: 12khz hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions -brian |
Wich hubs and axles are you using, to use those 1:5 scale tires?
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Ok, thanks!
I just read the whole tread, and what a nice build! |
Nice mod, can you do an sort of tutorial or pictorial on how to do that?
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Can you do that, or is that done already, because I can't find it?
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