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-   -   Stretched e-Muggy (Baja-style) Build Thread (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26979)

Jahay 04.05.2011 05:59 PM

Hmmm ill probably pick up the alloy tape as it is more of a long term solution that wont cause me problems....

But i think i used the coke can method one time before, and it worked very well before

Cheers guys!

Jahay 04.18.2011 03:00 PM

Hi Brian, keeping your thread alive here haa

My pistix has just arrived... and instead of starting a new thread... i was hoping you could help me.

Where abouts would it go and is there any programing i need to do to get it to work?

Thanks Bud

Josh

brian015 04.18.2011 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 404646)
Hi Brian, keeping your thread alive here haa

My pistix has just arrived... and instead of starting a new thread... i was hoping you could help me.

Where abouts would it go and is there any programing i need to do to get it to work?

Thanks Bud

Josh

Thanks for keeping this going - I've actually been working on this truck because it's been having a few problems (I post the details later).

Your pistix should have included instructions that explain how to set your throttle trim using a servo in place of your esc. I'm not sure its really necessary - since I've adjusted my trim since I did that and it still works fine.

Anyway, the pistix should simply plug in between your esc and rx. Let me know if you have more questions.

-brian

Jahay 04.18.2011 05:50 PM

Cheers Brian!! ill let you know.

Are any of your problems ESC/Motor related or weight issues? i wouldnt mind knowing as i could learn from what you have experienced and hopefully avoid such problems?

Thanks for the help!!!

brian015 04.18.2011 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 404668)
Cheers Brian!! ill let you know.

Are any of your problems ESC/Motor related or weight issues? i wouldnt mind knowing as i could learn from what you have experienced and hopefully avoid such problems?

Thanks for the help!!!

I finally had one of these diffs fail - the rear. It was one of the internal spider gears that went bad. I then had an accident with it today after driving it for about a minute and broke the output cup on the same diff I just rebuilt.
:cry:

I also replaced the center diff cup because I thought that was the problem initially - it got pretty hot a few times and the plastic hd case seemed to be deforming slightly - but I don't think it was really a problem, because the internal gears were OK.

I also had drive shaft screws come loose from the front and rear diff pinions on separate occasions - meaning I had to stop driving and come home to fix them - now they're loctited - so hopefully it won't happen again.

Anyways, I've been working on this much more than driving it recently - keeping me from my other build. :diablo:

Jahay 04.18.2011 06:21 PM

Thanks for the info bud... it just reminds me to locktite as i go... THere are many things i havent loctited because i continuously rip it apart and put it back together.

The only weak spot at the moment, which i believe wont cause problem, are my front and rear plastic diff cup cases.
they are from a vorza and very tough. And allows me to use my BP Savage Ring gear and hardened internls which are tougher than a stock savage... Plus i use two larger 8x16x5mm bearings instead of the old alloy cup bearing which was 10x16x5mm. Im sure the cup will handle the power. My CD is a spider diff, so should be all gd there.

Hopefully you get it all put together soon!

Any update on how you found the handling with the narrower front hubs you shortened? There is a guy that may do mine and shorten them to 20mm rather than 30mm. Think it is a good idea?

brian015 04.18.2011 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahay (Post 404680)
Any update on how you found the handling with the narrower front hubs you shortened? There is a guy that may do mine and shorten them to 20mm rather than 30mm. Think it is a good idea?

Too early to say - I just haven't been able to drive this much at all with the narrower front end.

Jahay 05.13.2011 06:34 PM

Hi Brian, back in for some help pleaseeee

I am just setting up my castle link on my ice hv160. I am a little unsure as to how i should have it set up???

Under the following settings
Throttle
"Vehicle type" & Specific settings for that type.

Cutoffs
"Current Limiting"

Motor
"Motor Startup Power" - I set for low
"Motor Timing" - did you have normal or low?
"PWM Rate" - what is this? and what should it be set at?

im now running Version 3.26 beta - is that what you are running? or an older version?

Thanks Brian!

Josh

brian015 05.14.2011 10:55 AM

Josh, I left many of the settings on default to start. Playing with a few of the settings really made no noticeable difference to me.

Here are my current settings on the ICE hv160:

Vehicle type: airplane
Throttle response: medium (5)

Auto-lipo; 3.2v; hard cutoff

Motor: medium start power (59)
motor timing: normal (5)
pwm rate: 12khz

hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions

-brian

ruudxd 09.28.2013 08:26 AM

Wich hubs and axles are you using, to use those 1:5 scale tires?

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian015 (Post 370087)
Alright - I cut 2" off the front of the chassis (still need to cut last bit off) and attached front end and wheels/tires to see how it looks. The wheelbase is 20"; rear width is 19.5"; front width is 19"


http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4395Small.jpg



http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4396Small.jpg


http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4398Small.jpg



http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4402Small.jpg



http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y..._4403Small.jpg


So I still need to install the steering assembly and front brace, make the front extended cvd, install esc/bec, and install roll cage and wing. But I'm beginning to think I'm going to be driving this thing this summer. :yipi:


brian015 09.28.2013 08:42 AM

These hubs:

PRO-LINE 23mm HD 1/8 Hub Adaptor 6034-03

ruudxd 09.28.2013 08:49 AM

Ok, thanks!
I just read the whole tread, and what a nice build!

ruudxd 11.20.2013 04:50 AM

Nice mod, can you do an sort of tutorial or pictorial on how to do that?


Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian015 (Post 376917)
OK, back from a week's vacation and a little time to work on this now.

Here's what I plan to do with the 70mm m4 bolts through the bulkheads. I have holes drilled up through the bulkheads for the bolts like this:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...4725bSmall.jpg

at an angle so they clear the shock tower:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...4728bSmall.jpg


Now I need to make an aluminum top plate and a skid plate for below the chassis to shield the cap head bolts sticking out. I'm using the regular holes in the chassis for these four bolts.


The m4 screws I have in the bulkheads now are doing the job, but get knocked loose from impacts - there's a lot of shear force on them with this 19lb truck. I imagine each time they get knocked loose and retightened, the plastic that's holding them is degrading (one of the eight is stripped now). I'm hoping that this is holds up much longer. :yes:


ruudxd 11.29.2013 02:58 PM

Can you do that, or is that done already, because I can't find it?


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