Yeah but I went to Montana State, so thats why I said Bozeman! :)

You can definetly tell a difference; I've driven both my nitro XL (when it was one, and soon shall be one again), a buddy's Flux, and my RC8T conversion and its definetly different experience. MT is just as much fun for bashing, and sometimes more, as the truggy!

Turned out Nice Freeze! I hope it´ll pleas you for a long time:)

Looks good man! Looks like you are running 4s? 5s is the sweet spot, 6s is almost too much, but kinda fun once in a while. If you dont run too many cycles on those 2s batts you can just buy the same amount of 3s batts and still be ok as far as mixing 2s and 3s to make 5s. I bought 3-2s packs and 3-3s packs so i could run 4, 5 or 6s, or just all 5s. I only run 5s now because that is perfect for me. 4s is not quite enough spunk and 6s is like balls-to-the-wall, all-out, uncontrolable craziness lol. I cant even go full throttle, or anywhere near it, even in a 300foot straight with my flux on 6s. I can take it to where i cant even hardly see it and drive it towards me and still not be able to go WOT with it without it doing a backflip.

Allright guys, I need some input on overheating issues i'm having with FB2. I took the truck outside a little awhile ago in sunny, around 70 degree weather. I went to a local park and I gave the truck a real hard test run on a full set of batterys. I did alot of high speed runs, turns and wheelies in both gravel and some grass. I did alot of small jumps around 4-6 feet high with alot of throttle and braking as needed. There was alot of dirt and dust flying everywhere as I did donuts, skid turns and peel outs so the entire truck had dust everywhere on it

Within in the first few minutes, I stopped the truck and noticed the ESC fan was running. The motor didn't feel too warm so I kept on going as I stated above. I stopped the truck several times through the run and noticed the ESC fan running on almost every stop but I decided to just keep hammering away at it. Finally, I felt the LVC kick in at 3.5v at around the 20 min mark and I checked things out. The MMM fan of course was running and it did feel pretty warm around the casing but then I touched the motor and I nearly dropped the truck as the motor was searingly hot to the touch.

I touched the motor on the heat sink fins again. The motor was so hot that I couldn't hold my finger on the fins for even a second it hurt so much.

Needless to say, something aint right here and now i've got to dig through my setup and see what exactly is causing my motor to run so hot before I take it out again.

I'm theorizing it has to be one or combination of my mods including:

1. Sealing the front endbell holes with screws to prevent dust intake
2. XL chassis and axle extentions
3. Heavier and slightly larger tries

I double checked and I have a good mesh on the pinion and spur and im running the stock 20/44. I had the punch control set to 0%, drag brake at 10% brake amount 20% and reverse w/lockout at 25%. I have no unusual drag or binding on the tranny anywhere that I could feel and everything rolls smoothly.

That being said, what should I try changing on my setup to see if and how that effects my run temps?

Still no Temp Gun? Harbor Frieght they are like $8

This before anything. It may be 160F, too hot for comfort, but fine on the motor.

first i would try taking all those screws out of the motor and then do a duplicate run. I doubt its your tires since they are just barely bigger or heavier. The ext tvp's add what like maybe 3 ounces of weight? I dont think its that either.

Oh and remember this as well:

As reference I am running a 2200kv with MMM on 5S on a 16.4lb 5T conversion and I'm not seeing this. So it is probably not the XL chassis and its not the tires. Maybe it "sealing" the front end might be part of it but maybe not.

But yeah get a heat gun/temp guage.

Are the tires different size from stock that you need to adjust gearing? What about timing in the ESC? Low/Medium/High? I had some heat issues with my RC8Te and dropped down to the Low settings and that helped.

Really like the CORR body on the savage. I have a new SC10 body laying here I'll have to fit onto my Emaxx or Revo.

Get a temp gun - unless you are very experienced you really need a temp gun to tell anything

PS Airflow is key - Any windscreen holes in your body

Your going to end up spending hundreds of dollars diagnosing a phantom problem when you can spend 20 on a temp gun

there have been times where i have felt my motor and could have sworn it was cooked, but then the temp gun says 160, which aint bad.

Just get the temp gun....

Well to put in some input. I have sealed the motor like Freeze did, running 20/44T with the same exact 2s lipos (Turnigy 5200mah 30c). I also have the heavy-ish TCS 5mm chassis, but i am running on Masher MT tires whith RPM stablemaxx wheels (Smaller than stock tires). Anyways, my motor has stayed pretty cool, hottest right around 120F. The ESC has runa little hotter, as the fan will intermitently come one and off during the run for about 45 seconds. So it should be around 145F throughout the run. Not sure exactly what to say, as the ony difference in our setups are tires and chassis.

My LHS guy says the IR temp guns arn't accurate worth a crap and I need to spend the money on a freaking laser one. What say you? Suicide neil is saying I don't have enough voltage to move this big of a monster truck without generating alot of heat, any truth to that? I dunno what the total weight of this thing is. No, I have no holes in the body anywhere, I figured the body was so wide and open enough that airflow wouldn't be an issue, or so I thought. Crap, I really wanted to keep those screws in the endbell to keep dirt outa the motor but if its overheating it, that does me no good and I never had temp issues with drag brake on my first flux.

Damnit, I really do need a temp gun.... :no:

poppycock about the temp gun, just dont point them at refelctive surfaces..my cheap o duratrax one is within +/- 8degrees of a 400 dollar lazer one.. that the locals had at my home track

And those extra holes will do nothing meaningful to heat dissipation.

You mean for the motor?

Allright, i'll go place an order for that Duratrax gun right now, I gotta know what is going on with my truck so I don't fry the thing cause i'll be sad and cry....

NO CRYING ALLOWED :lol:

Just get that thing back out and do some more damn flips
Get us another new vid tommorow :whip:

I use this one and has always seemed pretty accurate.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEMG5&P=7

Unless the fan is on all the time I wouldn't worry to much about the esc, the fan is doing it's job, just make sure the fan comes on at start up everytime so you know it's working. Also because your tires are slightly bigger and heavier I would have to recomend dropping a tooth or two on the pinion, that will definately help the esc, and may help the motor a bit too. I think the brushless MTs all come over geared out of the box, gearing for over 40 on 4s is a lot!

I did experience a hotter motor running those tires on my previous Flux build. They do weigh a lot more. They're around 320gm each, stock tires are about 250gm. So thats and extra 280gm of rotating mass all up or 28% more tire mass.

Unfortunately i didn't have a temp gun at the time so i can't quote temps. However i do know it wasn't so hot that i couldn't hold my finger on it and that was with 5mm chassis and LST shocks adding more weight.

I can't believe you don't have a tempgun yet. Measuring = knowing. I'm also using the Duratrax one and I feel it's pretty accurate.

I have been driving my Flux / Flux XL on 4S for over a year. Never had heating issues. Recently I purchased a set of HPI Terra Pins which are quite a bit bigger and heavier than the Mashers and BadLands which I usually run. I noticed immediately (I measure temps every minute when I change something on my car) that my set-up was running hotter onroad then normally offroad. So I dropped from a 20T to a 18T pinion and problem solved. I'm still running 18T, also with my other tires and can't really notice a lack of speed so far. Normally I'm at max 60c / 140F on both motor and ESC. When I'm solely jumping I'm at 45c / 120F.

I would just drop one or two teeth on the pinion and try again, AFTER you have your tempgun.

ps. My XL was lighter than the stock so that's not exactly even to your car which is probably a bit heavier than stock.

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html

I have the Duratrax one and it works fine. But this looks pretty damn close. 60% off...

Up to 230*F Past that and your motor is cooked anyway....

With Stopwatch to time your runs. LOL

So far, im not too impressed with the XL conversion all around from my few drives with the truck. I may end up going back to stock Flux size if my tweaks on the XL chassis don't improve it. I think actually prefferred and had more fun with the Flux when it was twitchy and unstable due to the insane amount of power on a standard MT chassis.

that is fair enough! you know what you like, and i know exactly what you mean! the flux is a lot more fun being a ballistic and hard to control sort of truck... keep us posted

I really don't like the XL conversion due to the fact that it makes it much harder to control the truck in the air and wheelies are hard to do and maintain. The wider wheel stance also makes crashes alot harder on the truck itself due to the increased leverage which resulted in me breaking the rear linkage today. And the truck doesn't recover as well from crashes and poor landings with the wider wheelbase, its less forgiving.

I basically miss the near out of control feeling the stock Flux has. I just got done taking off all the XL conversion parts tonight and im gonna go drive it tomorroo and see what I think



http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...brokeagain.jpg


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...te2/basics.jpg

I would say that the arm could have broken in a X/Flux just as easily and really has little to do with the extended axles.

Go figure that wheelies are harder, you have a longer chassis which means that it is going to take more force to rotate the truck as the weight at the front has been moved further away from the pivot point. Pretty easy physics experiment to reproduce.

But you gotta do what you gotta do to have fun with it.

Btw is tomorroo related to a kangaroo?

Isnt that most of the reason people convert to XL is to help keep the front end down? I really dont think you can compain about not being able to wheelie or correct in-air antics untill you run at least 5s. The 4s you are running is barely enough on a standard flux, let alone an XL. Also if you are using punch control it greatly reduces the ability to correct in the air. Not sure if you are using punch control or not but its just an FYI

I can still do standing backflips on 4S with my XL conversion, driving till topspeed on the rear wheels is also no problem. In the air I like it more than the normal Flux size, it's more stable. I hardly ever need to adjust the car while airborne and when I have to it's just a sqeeze away.

If you decide to go back to stock Flux length buy the TCS conversion, cheap and I've only read good things about it.

How sure are you that your steering mod works??

I'm currently rebuilding my Flux from scratch so I wanted to try your mod on my stock parts. But when I turned to the maximum I saw the following:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TJ...2/P1070376.JPG
So there is actually room left before they will make contact.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TJ...2/P1070377.JPG
You didn't shave this which makes contact.

I remembered I saved the steering mod in my bookmarks so I dug it out:

Savage Steering Mod
Looking at those pics you need to be shaving a heck of a lot more than you did. So unless RPM parts differ from stock you didn't increase steering, you only weaked the part by a very small amount ;)

While doing the steering mod i did indeed shave that part off along with some other parts on the carrier. I have a lot of steering!

I thought about it but I didn't wanna compromise the strength of the upright carrier and making it easier to break. If I want more steering, i'll sell the Flux and buy a truggy

Well just got back having a BLAST with "Frostbyte II" without the XL conversion. I was amazed at the difference. With FB2 back in stock form, wheelies were now simply on demand as much as I wanted, so much so that I forgotten how easy it to flip it on its lid, the XL conversion definitely cuts down wheelies alot, under 4s power anyway. I now also had the ability to control my truck in the air alot quicker then with the XL conversion. I was now easily able to do backflips for all the kids in the park that were running from the birthday party and skate park to watch my truck in action. To bad I didn't have my camera to record my jumps, backflips and shit loads of crashes, but I was just too busy having fun with my truck at long last and watching little kids go "Whooooaaaaa!" as my truck did wheelies in the dirt, jumped around and did speed runs, not to mention my numerous crashes and bad landings which only resulted in breaking the front bumper support strut, thats it!

I also recieved my Duratrax temp gun this morning so I was checking the motor at random times. I never saw the temp go above 48c and the MMM fan was sometimes running, sometimes it wasn't. The XL conversion definitely puts more of a load on the motor on the stock 20/44 gearing.

That being said, i've got some major cleaning up to do as it rained last night so I got FB2 a wee bit dirty but I had a blast all the same. Now its just a matter of if I wanna jump up to 6s with the XL conversion kit or just leave it in stock chassis form and do a new body. Needless to say, alot more driving and having fun is needed!



http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m.../dirtyflux.jpg


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...dirtyflux2.jpg

LMK if you want to hand off the axle extenders :)

NOW it looks right....dont clean it man!

I am in complete agreement with you on the effects of the XL conversion. I'd say now you should get a pair of 3S packs, and run it with those too. I think you will like it. You dont have to run it on those all the time, but I have found that I rarely run mine on 4S anymore. Of course I did just have the ESC go up in flames........:whistle:

does this mean the FLM chassis is for sale? lol

Like hell I ain't cleaning it!

Dunno, I need to do further driving and testing before I make my decision.

Well if you keep it stock wheelbase, get some TCS TVPS! $20 is a killer price, and I love mine. I would keep it un-XL even if you go to 6s or 5s

cleaning is highly overrated lol. I agree get 2 3s packs and then you can experiment between 5s and 6s. I think you will be very happy with 5s myself.