So your saying if I run without any punch control it would be easier on the mmm.? I could be wrong but i thought it was the opposite. As far as a splitter not sure how I would go about doing it. I didn't have a chace to test it this weekend. Maybe today. If I need vertical stabilizers I think a modded 1/8 scale wing will suffice.

Well Punch control is limiting current IIRC. Limiting current, i.e. not running full throttle also, tends to build more heat since the ESC has to work harder.

So rolling into the throttle with no punch control is easier on the esc than without?. I really dont see how it will make a difference since I have to roll into no matter what . Unless the combination of punch control and rolling into the throttle is worse than no punch control and rolling into the throttle. I figure the PC will help out with amperage spikes from me getting to throttle happy. Theres no way I can just punch it full throttle from a dead stop. I am using the punch control too prevent wheelies and help smooth out accleration and prevent parts breakage more than anything. I am sure without it the tires may cut loose if I acclerate too fast. I need to play with it and see.

You guys act as if running punch control is putting the MMM past its operating envelope


Punch control is not physical current limiting. Nor does it limit full throttle opperation.

It is just a ramping of PWM value, it does exactly what pulling on the trigger slower would do. just dampens the increase of change from the throttle input. doesnt change anything at WOT

Punch control will be fine... the ramping will deaden the large amp spikes from jerky trigger movement and will help your batteries stay cool.

That my Understanding of it also. I knew it didnt affect full throttle is just make it get there a little smoother. I personally think it an awesome design and I am glad this esc has the option. I wonder if I should adjust the linear graph curve or just leave it alone. Any recommendations?

Do that once you get the truck running. If there is one particular range of throttle where the truck pulls the wheels, then tweak the curve a bit

I don't see you punching the throttle off the line with or without punch control, you'll need to feed the throttle to about 60 before you can WOT

After driving my Rustler with a 1515 1.5, my punch control is my throttle finger

Edit: My reference to the splitter is that if set up right, it can keep the vehicle composed across the entire speed range & allow you to pull more throttle earlier by creating downforce

You really need your cells to be as warm as possible (65-70 degrees C) before a run. You'll get one full power run before most cells loose the window. If you run them cold it'll take a few runs to warm & by then you'll lost the best of the battery

To much down force and speed will suffer not enough and its flying. What funny is I am running 2 6s 3300mah batts in parallel not 2 3s in series so I think I have alot more capacity and be able to do way more than 1 run without too much speed loss. After I came home after the first speed runs(like 3 good ones) my batts were still ~ 4volts. Yea I heard about warming the batts for best results. And as always the first run will be the best. Going out in a bit for a speed trial I will try to get some video.

trinity makes an excellent battery warmer, it wouldn't be a bad idea for the speed challenge,where you wait in line to do a run and can't warm the packs properly.

only if the batteries are pre warmed, otherwise your 2nd or 3rd run will be the best. And lipos holding power allows multiple passes with identical performance(once they're warmed up), not one first good run like nimh's

Saw this in a magazine, said something about warming to 140 degrees.. seems a bit odd doesnt it?

nope, that's the temp the electrons like to flow at. An inherent trait of lithium polymer technology:yes:

Took the truck out tonight before it got dark and the tire seem to be doing their job. Obviously no balloning and I got it up to 67 mph a little over 1/2 throtle but it starts too drift and is really hard to control and I had to let off. It definatly has alot left in it as I gave it about 3/4 throttle going 50mph and you could hear the tires break loose and it started sliding sideways so there is lots of power still availiable.The hitec servo has a little play in the gearbox and it hard to get it to go perfectly straight I checked 5 hitech servos and all had a little play. I wonder if I should have some toe in or toe out maybe to help with stability a little. I also think I am going to have to put verticle stabilizers and/or low down force wing. I think a giro is in order also. I am not going to do any vids until I get atleast 80 mph and I know it can do it but need to figure how to control it some how. It did do a 50 mph power slide and it fliped it over wheels got a little scuffed but nothing else was hurt glad I used this jacked up body, the packing tape held it on good lol. After about 6 60+ mph passes the batts still have 4 volts left in them.

like 1 degree rear toe-in will help track straight. for straightline speed fronts should be neutral