No chance - it isn't attached to the centre diff - it's a motor plate, with the screws going through the chassis - like half an engine mount.

really? i could of swore i seen someone with it jacked to 9.5v with the internal, guess i was wrong

I just noticed this months Car Action has an article about the Ve8..
Havn't read it yet though.

I've had this in my basket at towers for a few months now.. I've had an itch to buy something and after reading the article it was the nudge I needed to click the 'complete order' button :) 299-60 w/ free ship :) Already have a couple spare MMM's and 2200kv (1y) systems laying around as well as extra servo's and spektrum rx's so I'm good to go :)

I also used a-main for a box of parts and a few hop ups..

1 x HBS67562 Hot Bodies Pinion Gear (18T) $8.49
1 x HBS67580 Hot Bodies Aluminum Front Skid Plate $15.49
1 x HBS67581 Hot Bodies Aluminum Rear Skid Plate $17.99
1 x HBS67388 Hot Bodies Front Spindle Set $8.49
2 x HBS67758 Hot Bodies Megabite 1/8 Buggy Tire (Red) (2) $33.98
1 x HBS67575 Hot Bodies Ve8 Clear Body $23.99
1 x HBS66898 Hot Bodies 3.7x80mm Factory Turnbuckle Wrench $11.49
1 x HBS67516 Hot Bodies Rod End Set (8) $3.89
1 x HBS67350 Hot Bodies Shock Boots Set (4) $3.89
1 x HBS67351 Hot Bodies Shock End & Spring Retainer Set $3.89
2 x HBS67515 Hot Bodies Big Bore Shock Maintenance Set $11.98
1 x LOSA4463 Team Losi Battery Straps (3) $10.25

Sub-Total: $153.82
Super Saver Shipping - UPS Ground - FREE!: $0.00
Discount Coupons (CALPJAN1012): $-12.50
Total: $141.32

Enough spent.. wife will most likely have a cow :) But I'm ready for the spring!! 3 more months..

• Any install tips etc during the build? stock oils all been nice on the track?
• Any other must have parts for the tool box when racing? LHS doesnt carry anything for this buggy... thanks!

I've built two of these . One for me & one for a customer at the LHS were i work part time . The only thing i noticed is some very slight rubbing with the spur or the center diff cup . Both were fixed very easy . On the diff cup were the set screw goes in to seal the cup was rubbing on the edge of the radio box . A little work with a small file & all is good. On the spur i just opened up the chassis slot & the sides a little. I also trimmed a little of the top plate were the spur runs thru. you will see were to clean it up if nessesary.

I wouldn't say no chance, but you would need to have a milling machine to do it right. Make slots in chassis with the recesses around them (like nitro motor mount holes) so you can adjust gear mesh.

As hippie said, clearance around the center diff is very tight, some trimming/filing may be required to get no rubbing.
The battery straps are crap and I would recommend replacing them (I used losi ones).
Number one upgrade aluminum skid plates! Most of the Ve8's at the local track have all broke rear skids. I broke mine in the first qualifier of the season! Now running aluminum skids for many races and they've been great.
Stock oils seem to work great at the track, except i changed to 10k in the center diff, as i like a bit heavier with motor brakes (not running mech. brakes).
For other spares, rod ends and hubs are the only things to break on mine since the rear skid. One of the local HB sponsored guys recommends the aluminum hubs (he has them on all his rigs), but they are expensive.

since this seems to be the general discussion thread, here is a vid of my car, i start third and finish second, my car is neon green with yellow spokes, not too bad on my first day with it

http://www.youtube.com/user/HandyRac.../0/4R5VUkNtLqE

Those with the Ve8 - what parts are you braking an what are the necessary upgrades?

So far I have broken a steering rod end, 2 upper link rod ends, and rear skid plate. I replaced the rear skid with the aluminum plate. It should help with toughness.

In my opinion, my upper link rod end broke a little easily. I dont feel that my stumble was worthy of braking parts. I am considering boiling the rod ends so they arent so brittle, but someone told me if they get too soft, the rods will pull out.

i have only broken a rear skid and chassis, its taken a beating rather well besides that

hers the third race ive ran with it, start second finish second

http://www.youtube.com/user/HandyRac.../2/lyN4xRScV4U

Hi, I got my ve8 at the end of last year and have only done about 2 meets or 12 races but all is going well and havent managed to brake any thing yet.
I am running a MMM 2600kv on 4s setup and i live in the tropics where most of the time we race its between 30c/86f and can get down to 16c/60f but my motor temps run around 80c/176f and that was on a 18/50 gearing. Will going up help or down in gearing help.

Some would say that the 2600 is too high kv for racing. I would try gearing down, 18t seems a bit much for that motor.

I got hold of a 16t pinion and used it last night at a race meet down from the 18t i was running before and temps droped 10 to 15*c and still had heeps of low and top speed. I was very happy to see this and thanks for the advice.

I had a 15t from a differant buggy but im sure i tryed that when i first put the buggy together but the motor was hitting on the drivline before i could get it to mesh properly.

It was a slipery track but still managed to get 1st in the intermediate class and the buggy held together without any problems no big jumps to brake stuff here.

Good to hear it worked out for you. The 16t pinion is the smallest you can fit with the castle motors, that would be my choice with your set up.

The change worked a treet so i will be leaving it this way from now on and now i have gotten used to the 2600 kv combo it is just right as my track rules are upto 4cell max only so it has all the speed i need to pass the nitro guys down the strait. :yes: