New testing today - same result with the gears... I took a short course and just replaced the stripped gear with a new one, and hoped it would hold up - guess I was wrong.. Nice log though:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/stadion_20100703.jpg

Now I will put in some of my older used gears, they have held up to a lot of abuse, but the chances are slim imo.

9000 watt:surprised:

Holy Boogerballs. 9KW!

No wonder why the gears didn't hold up to it.

Anyhow - I switched to my old, well proven, gears from the 6s Setup. My 5 years old daughter drove 4:30 before another tie-rod was bent. The log said she was up to 7.5kW, so definitely less, but the sound of the gears just sound more healthy.. I'll have to order a kit of the bullet-proof ones as well.

You have to shim them precisly too, only some tenth of milliter play can do the things wrong at thoses power levels :(

They have been very precisely shimmed indeed. I think they have been slightly too much hardened. The 2 year old gears from the old 6s truck likely has become softer and more flexible, apart from smoother. Newly broken ones to the left and the old working ones to the right.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/h_...vs_vanliga.jpg

Hum.... they arent helical ! I am very surprised that in a truck as heavy as the savage hpi did'nt use helical diffs... You need maybe to put less power on the rear diff, by decreasing the oil in the center diff, that would even more provide the wheelies. But the front tires will maybe balloon :lol::lol:

Quick bit of mathes/googling reveals that 9kw = 12 horse power. OMGWTFBBQ! :lol:

So, today I made alternative tie rods from the parts of the older upper arms and a stainless M5 rod.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/new_ties.jpg

It held up to 3~4 "full" speed crashes/rolls. My old gears also went in the truck - and surprisingly it held up to the power! I did 5 minutes of driving on packed, dried mud, but also a few runs on asphalt. Heating becomes a real problem after 5 minutes, so I have to get the cooling in place. (still waiting for the stuff)

After a few minutes of driving I measured the temp on the center diff and the motor, the diff was 10degC higher than the motor. At the end of the driving the motor was 80degC, so I guess the lifetime will be "limited"..

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/st...den_h_ller.jpg

So far, grass is the worst in terms of Amp draw.

I have seen this before with my setup... after about 5 mins, the when checking the temps of the motor i checked to see how hot the center diff got... to my surprise the CD was 150° F and motor was 120° F:surprised:... very interesting stuff...

Alien

Yeah, I'll for sure change to loctite 278 for the screws and check the temp limit for the silicone...

I thought it was insane, when i pulled 2684 watts on 6s with a 2250. Granted it was the 100amp eagletree and i think it pulled higher, but the Eagletree was limited 124 amps. I bow to the king of 1/8 horsepower. we need a bowing smiley on the forum

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/w...ys/worship.gif http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...ingForward.gif http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...wingSmiley.gif http://static.rankone.nl/site_images.../4/bowdown.gif

This is crazy!!!!! Ridiculous PowA!!!! im sorry but how do your pinions hold up? I have just shredded an HPI Pinion in 4 sets of batteris!!! Nearly 2 hours of running only!!!!

Im thinking a plastic spur is the only way to cure this but i dont think it could handle it either?

HPI pinions are crap. Buy some of RCMikes hardened pinions.

Your truck is ballistic!!

EDIT: I see your are having some real pinions probs, sorry to hear that. RCM has been holding up great here (Flux XL, RC8Te and Hyper Mini STe). I'm moving to an MBX6Te soon (when Mike will ship the conversion kit that I ordered last week) so hopefully my pinions will hold on that new rig!

No ! The new RCM pinions (black) are crap :( worst than hpi, I shread them in 6-7 batteries on my MBX5T... And I know many other guys having this problem with RCM pinions. Other RCM parts are just great, but Mike need to change his pinion supplier !

hmmmm... i will try novak first...

When i do eventually buy the RCM Centre diff i will buy some of mikes pinions with it too...

Thanks a lot Nard!

Backon topic for the 14s beast!

As for pinions I have used these:
http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/dsc04201.jpg

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/dsc04202.jpg

Quality is superb. For the past trucks, buggys, brushless 1/8 track etc I have used Mikes Pinions, but as I needed a bore 8mm I had to find another supplier..

those arent mod1 pinions are they? They do look solid and looked at their site but have nothing i can use...

Just a quick question... larger pinions gears such as 21t and 22t wear slower and better than smaller ones dont they?

Its is Mod1 - it was worth a try even if you couldn't use them.
When I ask the mechanical engineers at my office they claim that the strength of the single teeth is more important unless much larger gears are used (on steel gears). If so then that's the reason why the bullet proof diffs have 9 teeth compared to the stock 13 on the Savage - I think it is claimed to have the same steel and degree of hardening?

I have used from 9t up to 25t Mod1 pinions from Mike, depending on application, and never ripped any of them. I would guess that the shape of the teeth is extremely important, but my transmission design knowledge is very limited.

i have no idea to tell you the truth... I have just asked the qustion in the general forum so it will be nice to see what people say...

Well, since ( generally speaking ) spurs are twice the size of pinions/ twice the number of teeth, for every revolution the spur makes the pinion makes two, so the pinion's teeth will wear down twice as quickly. This assumes the pinion and spur are well meshed and of the same material, but even with a plastic spur and metal pinion, the pinion will wear faster..

Of course - you are right about that! I haven't noticed wear as a big problem before, rather just ripping of the teeth, but actually on the spur..

have you had to replace your spur many times already???

neil are you serious? even if using a metal pinion and plastic spur, you will notice more wear on the pinion? NO WAY? ill see what happens when i try it this weekend...

Hi,

Never had to replace the spur on the savage. I did a BL 1/8 track (quite overpowered) and had to replace the spur a few times - but that's it. Guess I have been lucky.

my spur hasntneed to be changed, but my pinion has been changed over4timesin the last 15 lipo charges

Ever considered a belt drive setup :lol:

( I laugh, but one crazy european dude actually built a belt driven Savy or Genesis? transmission into his truck using an un-godly large motor- sort of thing you only see once every few years because its so nuts... ).

neil if that is aimed at me...? pshh belt driven does sound really really kl and original but not to sure where i would start....

Ill just put in a Centre Diff and see what happens from there. Have you got a link or any old pics of this belt driven savy? would love to see it

I am about to build a RC Lawnmower - perhaps I can use belt drive there somehow..

I received some new tires yesterday - they are gigantus, not sure if I can gear low enough to not blow the ESC/motor..

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/img_0573.jpg

if you could fit a big enough spur you should be good?
Those wheels and tyres are haugee!!

Yeah - what was I thinking:whistle:
The biggest spur I have is 54t - don't think that'll be enough, but for sure I will try (when I have received the parts for the cooling system).

Anyone knows why there is no belted truggy or monster truck wheels available on the market? For my 1/8 buggy it has been available for years so...

mckrill the gorilla tape i have just used to belt my bad land tyres and my large MOAB tyres is amazing!!! Very little but even tyre ballooning for perfect contact with the ground! You should defintiely use it!

OK, I will do as you say - any ideas for were to get it easily and fast? In Europe is even better..

Crazy - I found a supplier in a small village 50km from were I live. He had 3 rolls on stock.
This frigging Internet makes you search all over the world for stuff, except in your own neighborhood..

This is UK Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GORILLA-GLUE-T...7#ht_937wt_911

Make sure you get the 48mm wide version.
When i installed i did two complete wraps to make sure it was clean. But before sticking it, i cleaned the tyre with alcohol to remove any dirt.

warm it up with a hairdryer after laying it down to make sure adhesive is good and stuck - at least that's what I do

:yes:

hmmmm gd idea... i would have done that if ithought of it... But so far so good...

Hey, thanks! With some luck there will be some full speed testing this weekend!

I got the Gorilla Tape today and picked up some more wheels as I used for belting with the Tesa Duct tape - I hope for a difference to the better.

I'm also doing a complete haul over of all moving parts in the car, including the diffs, bearings etc. Hope to be up and running again within a day or two..

This morning I finally received the micro pumps and the coolers:yipi::yipi:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/img_0612.jpg