Well, I use mine in a non racing situation although it's on a track. I had to do the mod since the thing was DOA & I live far far away from CC. I have received my second V2 form Monster Mike. This one is likely to go into my FLM savage. I will run it stock until the BEC dies then do the mod. However, I still hope that I don't have to do any mods.

For the fan, I chop off the original connector & attached another servo lead & plug it into the receiver to receive power from the UBEC. I think a fan or any extra cooling is more than welcome in my part of the world where ambient temperature is anywhere between 30 to 35 deg C during rc session. I think this applies to TruckBasher in Singapore ya ? I was there last week & will be there again end of the month.

Regards,
Joe Ling

The diagram looks OK to me. The orange (signal) wire is on top, the red wire is in the middle, and the ground (brown or black) is on the bottom, but removed. Don't forget, the diagram is flipped around from the actual pics.

I just bought another since the replacement for my V1 has not arrived yet. I'm leaning on modding it whenever it arrives. I think CC should just do the mod themselves to include installing a UBEC. I think this is easier and faster than retooling again.

But, instead of running a UBEC, I plan on using a rechargeable rx pack from one of my supermaxxes to prevent burning up my 5955TG steering servo. I might still use the fan by using a Y harness coming off of channel 2 or just plug it into channel 3 of my rx.

Is this possible? Thanks.

Or should I just buy the HV 110?

Wow sorry man, My eyes deceive me. On my monitor the orange wire looks like brown. Sorry about that :oops:.

Regards,
Joe Ling

If using a reciever pack, the wiring will be a bit different. Give me a little while to whip up a diagram for that...

And, the HV110 is an awesome controller, but lack of reverse, true brakes, and needing to use the pistix adaptor to use a pistol grip radio makes it less than ideal IMO.

Thanks Brian!!!

I'm hoping to receive the MMM from Tower before this coming weekend so I can do the mod and ran my truck. My nitros are taking up all my time again :lol:.

I was definitely eyeing the HV 110. Same goes to the MGM :whistle::whistle:.

Here is the wiring diagram for using an Rx pack instead:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/mm...d_schem_rx.jpg

Brian it wouldn't it be easier to just use the battery slot on the rx. This would permantly power the MMM and without some kind of switch just drain the battery...

Yup, that can work too. Just making sure people realize that there is a slight wiring change (mainly the ground connection).

So by using a rx pack, I don't have to cut the red wire from the ESC (looking at the diagram). I will be using the batt port on the rx itself so I don't have to splice into the esc wire.

Thanks. Will see how it works when I get my MMM.

Doing so would achieve the same result :party:.

Hehe that the same thing I said on page 7..I guess it better come from the expert to be reliable :lol:

I don't think it's that, but people just want to make SURE to do it right and not blow anything. Modding internal circuits is not something that is done by everyone.

And, I said this somewhere before, but the only reason why I made the wiring the way I did in mine was to reduce the rats nest of wires going everywhere, but it obviously is not the ONLY way to do it.

Just did this mod, everuthing went well- everything work but the esc itself, running though a rx pack when i run power to the rx, the fan just spins and the Led's are recognizing throttle input but the esc wont arm, any ideas?

Responded in your other thread...