Low RPM isnt necessarily what I meant. I can drive either one of them around at a crawl. I mean more the midrange power just feels smother. The MMM seems to have a harsher feeling mid range. I just feel like the tekin has a little more refined feeling midrange power band. Which on the track is really what matteres. Not to often I am crawling around the track.

Its possible that you might be able to tune the MMM with the throtle curve tool in the software, but I dont really use that. I just run linear on mne and if I want to add some exponential to soften the bottom end for a slippery track I usually just do it from the radio rather than the esc software.

Dont get me wrong the MMM is still a very smooth esc. No cogging issues or anything like that. Both are very nice. Just not exactly the same.

ohh alrighty, i run my MMM on 5s, do you think the r1pro is a worthy adversary?

Yeah, how much power should r1pro take by 6s a123 (19,3v)? Will I be able to run 1000W motor (Kontronik Kira 600) with it (sure without BEC)?

should be fine :D

Should I use any low esr 35v capacitor or f.e. novak has some minor advantages? How big should I use?

Another question, Will Redline Motor work on 4s A123 in a 2,2kg buggy? Or it will get too hot?

I had used a 448 tekin motor and it got hot pushing a rustler around running on 4s A123.

Yeah, thanks, it seems that with 4wd heavier buggy it will not work.

I just got my firs R1Pro, any ideas when using current limiter how many lamps are how many ampers??

An amp is an amp, 1000milli-amps is 1 amp. What is this obession with current limiters- they will only hurt your top speed, and any decent/ accurately rated esc shouldnt need one. If you fry the esc due to excessive current draw, then the setup was all wrong, so that needs looking at rathe than trying to stunt the power the esc/motor can produce...

I wouldn't mind a current limiter. It would act as a disaster device in the event something went wrong (motor lock, ESC malfunction) and would help to at least limit chances for fire and save the battery. It's too bad there wasn't a fuse available that would be small enough, and not drop too much voltage under normal running currents...

But a lamp is not an amp. Tekin uses LAMPS, f.e. GM uses AMPS when talking about current limits. So one who buys Tekin has to ask about how lamps correspond to amps :rules:

There is no obsession, this is technology going forward. It is better to have limiter onboard, you can alway turn it off, but when there is none, it won't work even if you ask on on your knees. Current limiter alows you to set your power according to track, not even touching one screw to change motor, gearing and so on. You can influence your power and torque simply using one button, which protects your batteries, engine and esc by the way. Nothing special at all, really. But if you use it for some time you will see how good it is. Somebody who didn't use it won't know it.
Funny (not really) but today my R1Pro put for test on my onroad drove 2 minutes and started to have problems by full power, I am very, very dissapointed with this ESC at the moment. I set limiter half way, some usuall 2s2p liion pack with 60Amps continuos with mild 4.5T motor and gearing 11.5:1 and Tekin dies.... I really don't know what to think....

Any update on when we can order a custom case? And what is that soldered to the bottom of the positive and negative post? I'm guessing it's an extra low ESR cap. What is the rating?

The chip underneath is a transient supressor and the the extra leads are for a cap normally a 35v 2200uf or 25v 2700uf depending on voltage

Tekin have a Aluminum Case for the R1 coming out, not sure how far away though