After recharging the second set of Turnigys, this is what I got for numbers.

Pack 2:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.6 cell2 = 1.7
mah back in 4809
Volts just after charging 8.409

Pack 3:
Cell resistance - cell1 = 1.6 cell2 = 1.6
mah back in 5025
Volts just after charging 8.410

I think I'm going to run 1 and 2 together and 3 and 4 together.

Thanks man, and can you help me with my problem. Check it out, its called diff problems

I received my new MMM yesterday. I put it on, changed the settings to the ones I like and tried it. And....... It runs just like the other one :lol: I don't like the puky green color of the motor though. I also put a Traxxas red aluminum pushrod for the rear body mount brace.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_new_mmm1.jpg

Anyone else do this? I have a set of Neu batteries that have rather short leads on them and it was difficult to make the connections when they exited from the side of the battery compartments so I cut the fins out of the air outlets and I route the wires out of there. I do it with all my lipos now and I like it.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._channels1.jpg

Gorilla Tape mud flaps
 

It's raining outside. So I thought of making mud flaps out of Gorilla Tape and will try them out. At first glance and feel, they might be the toughest mud flaps I have tried. The hard rubber flaps I made earlier are still good, I just wanted to try something different and see if it works.

materials needed:
my mud flaps template printed on a 8.5 by 11 sheet of paper.
about 34 inches of Gorilla tape
some transparent packing tape or pieces of Scotch Tape.
straight edge
hobby knife with new blade
something to punch holes with
6 tie wraps

I started by laying two 7 inch strips of Gorilla Tape side by side, sticky side up

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps1.jpg

then I stuck four 4 inch strips side by side and perpendicular to the first 2 strips

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps2.jpg

next I put one 7 inch strip in the middle

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps3.jpg

and finally, the last 7 inch strip is split in half along it's length and stuck on either side of the last strip that I put in the middle

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps4.jpg

I taped a template with packing tape so that it wouldn't move

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps5.jpg

using my hobby knife and a straight edge, I cut on the lines of the template and the soon to be mud flap underneath.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps6.jpg

I used this simple little thing to punch holes in paper to punch the holes for the tie wraps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps8.jpg

I used a Sharpie to color the edges for a finishing touch.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...mud_flaps9.jpg

Here they are installed, they look kinda cool, like leather mud flaps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ud_flaps10.jpg

I had a couple PMs of people asking me about the dimension of the shafts for the Thunder Tiger center diff. Here's a pic of the shafts with the dimensions.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...16_shafts1.jpg

Cool MC, I'm adding these pics to the collection that I allready have of mine and yours....I also had a PM today about the CD as well.... for parts info...ect., it seems there is becoming a interest in this diff design, I have sent the info to Mike twice and have yet to hear anything from him...maybe at the bash, I could talk to him....

It would be cool to have someone market an 8th CD for the ERevo. But keeping the selling price under let's say $60 is quite the challenge IMHO.

One thing that I haven't discussed in this thread is weight. The total weight of the truck. Many of the parts used on the ERBE are from the nitro 3.3 version. So originally, those parts were designed for a truck that weighs 10 pounds or less. A RTR ERBE with beadlocks and a couple 4S lipos in parallel can weigh much more than 10 pounds which I think can put a lot of strain on many components that came from the 3.3. So how much does your ERBE or conversion weigh? It would be cool to see if there is a big difference between conversions and ERBEs, or if there are big differences between ERBEs and ERBEs or conversions and conversions. To seriously compare the weight of different trucks, I say to weight them without tires/wheels and without batteries because there are huge differences in weights of tires, wheels and batteries. So take off the batteries, the wheels, put back the nuts, body and body clips on and weigh the truck.

Here's the weight of my ERBE:

3352 grams or 7.39 pounds.

I got a couple LST2 diffs on ebay for cheap because I thought it would be nice to build a couple spares for my ERevo. So in the process of shaving a little off the thickness of the diff cases to have them fit in the ERevo's bulkheads, I ruined one set of cases by taking off too much. So now I have one complete spare diff built and one diff without a case. No big deal.
Looking At that case less diff I thought, I bet I could make a center diff out of it. So I did, but instead of going with threaded holes in the ring gear, I made three holes, counter sunk from the inside of the gear to secure threaded stand offs with flat head screws, the output gear will be screwed on the other end of the stand offs on the outside of the ring gear. I saw this idea somewhere but I can't find where exactly. I wish I could because I would mention the name of the person who came up with the idea of the stand offs. It was much easier to just make holes in the ring gear and not have to put M3 threads in them. Another thing I like about it is that it is actually smaller from end to end than the stock Traxxas center diff so it will be easy to position it perfectly with shims inside the tranny. And it is thin enough to use the output gear to it's full thickness, no need to sand it down on the belt sander to make it fit.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_losi_cd4.jpg

did you use revo output shafts? is the gear you are using from a e-revo center diff or the gear that the e-revo comes stock with?

I used the TRA5415 and TRA5416 shafts from the nitro Revo center diff. I cut them to the right length and put a hole for the pin. The gear is TRA3984X so yes it is the output gear that came with my ERevo Brushless Edition.

Sweet. I think Mike sell something very similar as an upgrade to the stock unit, a sister product to the slipperential :yes:

Really, I didn't know that, never saw it in the RCM products. If you have a link that would be swell.

One of my bearings felt very notchy in a rear axle carrier so I decided to change it and check the other ones too. My carriers were starting to show signs of wear so I decided to change them. Instead of going to the same Traxxas carriers, which I like very much, I reinstalled my RD Racing carriers I had lying around and I will run those for a while. I forgot how great they are, the suspension moves very freely but it feels really tight, by that I mean there is no slop at all. Just for the heck of it, I took the metal rings off the Traxxas carriers and press fitted them on to the RD Racing ones. They don't really need it but I wanted to see if the rings would fit and they do.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers1.jpg

This is news to me as well

Best.
Typo.
Ever.

That ment to say "should sell"...

:whistle: