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ah....
it just dawned on me that with this beast the ESC will probably not fit in the back of my truck:oh: anyways, still looking forward to see this great monster being finished:party: |
I've been quiet recently, this is why:
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan76.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan77.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan78.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan79.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan80.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan81.jpg T.B.C. |
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan82.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan83.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan84.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan85.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan86.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan87.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan88.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...Mulligan89.jpg So, what we just saw was:- 1. GPM axle guard mount thingies, stripped and lightly polished with 300grit paper & wd40 :lol: 2. NewEra front and rear skids finally fitted, front skid trimmed a little to make it look... nicer. 3. Two days work on building the tranny mounts. Went through 2 or 3 design concepts before settling on the sturdiest and easiest to make option ( I have new plans for the mounting posts I had the Candyman make for me ). If I had a better workshop, and a few nicer toys ( pillar drill/ bench drill, decent bench & vice ) it wouldnt have taken more than a few hours, but working at floor level basically on an old coffee table with a shonky vice and cordless drill makes life awkward- cant drill a hole in the correct posistion to save my life, even after marking the posistions with a centre punch & hammer. Got there in the end though- we now have a proper roller with the tranny mounted and driveshafts all hooked up- have to stretch the rubber boots a bit so they may have to be replaced with something longer or just removed. Tranny does sit fairly high, cant be helped due to the off centre spur leaving little clearance on that side, would hit the upper rod ends otherwise, and I dont want to mount them on the outside of the chassis rails so.. Next up is the battery tray thats going up front, then some clearance work on the knuckles and axle guard thingies to increase the steering throw, before moving onto tweaking the suspension; ordered my MMM, 1/4 scale servo and a few other odds & ends like 10g wire and fixings, got an email to say they were posted today. Until the next time, stay groovy :intello: |
Sweet!!! loving this build a lot Neil... can you make me one too?:lol:
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good holes
hi neil/all...looking good neil, like the custom mounts.
just a bit of advice, allways centre punch and next time you are in the tool shop pick up a bs 1 centre drill and go through nearly all the way with it. then swap to your drill bit and it will follow the hole made better. if your using a hand drill make sure its 90 degrees to the work, lol or pack sum sandwiches and jump in your car and come to mine and use my mill :yes:. have a metal band saw here and a lathe too. my e-maxx is still in bits, bit cold outside in the workshop atm...cold fingers :gasp: see ya neil... oh yer and when u finnished with the 300 grit (i find 800 much better not so scratchy) rub over with 1200 wet and dry and water and i think you'll like that finnish. then u have the option to polish from there... |
Angry Alien- sure, just deposite ~ $1500 in my paypal account :lol:
Chris- I was using a centre punch, Im just that crap! Some mistakes were just the drill bit wandering a little despite the punch mark, easily corrected with a tiny bit if filing, but other errors still have me scratching my head. Measured and marked the distance carefully, centre punched, drilled perfectly straight/ right angle to the surface.. yet still off somehow by a good 1-1.5mm ( holes too close together ). Im not gonna let it worry me too much as you cant see any of the mistakes unless you dismantle the truck (ignore the obvious hole in this picture as I recycled a spare bit of angle that had a few holes in it already), but I do look forward to this year as I will treat myself to some new workshop toys now that my little sister and her boyfriend have moved out of the spare room, giving me back my workshop; gonna get a proper work bench, drill press, few new metal working tools ( files and large hacksaw, junior one is no good for trimming up larger pieces of metal ) and a decent vice. I would dearly love a small hobby shop type lathe and vertical mill, The Candyman bought some a little while back to make his life easier and its awesome some of the stuff he's produced, but I cant really justify spending £300-500 on each of those, then a load more on top for tooling; I'll just send you guys my drawings and lots of cookies :lol: :yes: |
Yo neil the truck looks tough. Good job.
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Neil, that looks sweet.
As far as why the holes are not true...I do a lot of drilling at work and if the chuck is not EVENLY tightened, the hole will be off just a bit..and that is just one reason. The drill press I use is older so the chuck/and or the shaft that holds the chuck is just not true anymore. Can be frustrating as hell at times. the one thing that does help is to slow the press down a bit and drill very slowly but even that doesn't always help |
Neil this build has gone blazingly fast for what it is. Its been fun to watch.
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its looking good
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Cheers dudes.
Will also be picking up some finer sandpaper ( or is it glasspaper... ) too yeah, thats a good tip- 300 grit aluminium oxide paper was the finest stuff available in town... :neutral: |
Looks great man, can't wait to see it move...
#0000 or #000 steel wool for polished, #00 or #0 for 'satin' finish with aluminum, or good old scotchbrite. Local auto parts store should have one of those? |
have you considered oven cleaner or drano for removing the anodizing? It would help in the little grooves and pits that you're missing with the sandpaper.
Also, if you're serious about polishing parts a small room and a bit of crystal meth go a long way...........................:whistle: |
centre drill
hi all/neil...well 1.5mm aint far off considering your working by hand, sounds to me like drill wander, check your drills are nice and sharp and sounds to me like you need a centre drill, they are cheap like £3.00. place centre drill in punch mark and then start drill.
i have spaced holes using the mill and then measured them and they have been all over the place with a normal drill chuck. to get a good hole you need to drill undersize and then ream out to size holding the ream in a collet, but this could still be around .20mm off, but as you say, you cant justify spending 100s just to drill a few holes:whistle:. a good quality drill press can be used to mill soft stuff by using a compound table, but the drill must be a good one, or a bench top mill for the same money?? redshift is right wirewool or scotchbrite leaves a nice finnish in alloy. never use sand/glass paper on metal, wet and dry is the one(tungsten abrasive) but the halfords stuff is useless. personally i use scotchbrite (i get it free from a freinds workshop). but to polish i use 1500 wet and dry then onto the polishing wheel for a mirror finnish but that is a mission and i dont usually bother. see ya all... |
Oh man I hear you... if anyone has advise on this, that'd be great. My measurements always seem to be freaking off.
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