Ah, cool. Wonder if it will fit in my RC8Te...

joe how have you been holding out on me when you knew i was looking for something that could benefit my performance!!!

Do you think could be adapted for a the front and rear savage bulks? whilst using the SHD outdrives?

Still not quite convinced these are really LSDs. Yes they have the "Torsen (tm)" name slapped on them, which are a type of geared LSD, but to really be an LSD they'd need to send the power to the side that has load on it. Otherwise its just the same as the open diffs we are using now.

yea of course... why havent we heard more about these products? i take it they are not very good?

Torsen diffs have been around for a while, they do indeed send the power to the side with the most load/ grip. I dont see that as a good thing though for use in a CD; wont it send asll the power to the rear wheels and cause it to wheelie ( opposite of a well tuned normal CD )?

You dont here about them much as normally they cost about ~$200... :eyes:

Exactly! I completely agree, that's why I thought it would be best to just have them for the front and rear diffs.

Neil you obviously know about them. are the internals are fragile or could they handle 9s power? Do you think I could successfully install them in my alloy bulks without the ring and pinion gear failing?

only one way to find out josh...

i thought you already knew about them... i had one in the front of my original hyper 7 and it was the nuts :) so so so much cleaner steering and power through corners :) so yea... their old ;)

as for running it in the centre, it wouldn't increase wheelies anymore than having a transmission would... think about it... with a locked centre diff, all the power is going to the front and back... when the front lifts up, the front wheels gyroscopic action takes over, pushing the wheelie up... with a torsin this wouldnt happen... or shouldnt happen...

the crop up from time to time or forums like maxbashing or oople josh... if you stick up a wanted add you may be able to get one at a good second hand price... try it out and if you hate it, sell it at the same price :)

if the rc8t has standard size diffs (Hyper 7, savage, older losi, old kyosho) then it will fit... if it has one of the new smaller ones it wont :(

And josh... as for running front and rear you would need to use non bullet proof gears, which shouldnt be a problem with a well shimmed GH bulk :)

Yup because more of the power is being sent to the rear wheels.

Good question. For the CD I think it'd be less of an issue.

Yep... im going to post on some forums and see what people say.. I would need to buy two in order to keep the gearing ratios on the front and rear the same... or could i get away with just having one in the front for better steering as the centre diff will compensate for the different ratios?

Few more quick comments:-

Body Clip Pulls
The antenna tube body clips pulls I made worked well. Easy to make, cheap, very durable, don't get caught and pull out the pin and easy to use despite looking small and thin. Recommended

Battery Tray\Holder
Tray was fine, solid. Tekno battery holder though is not up to containing a 6S battery. There is a small depression in the bottom of my 6S battery from the tray side pressing on it in hard impacts. Need something with higher sides like an RC Monster custom tray or just devise something different.

Shock Covers
Do an ok job and they wash out well. Very susceptible to stone strike on the rear but decent rear stone\mud guards help out with that. Think I will try some RC-Skins next.

Slipperential
Nice piece of engineering but not quite suited to applications in an MT, at least from my experience. Really needs stronger wave springs that apply the pressure more evenly. With 3 I have to almost tighten them right up. There now also isn't a mod1 steel 52t spur available. I will say that besides some initial quality control issues it has held up well to the abuse.

Looking to cut the slipper and try a Vorza center diff with lightweight 52t hellfire spur and 500K or Ofna diff lock fluid next. Other options are:-
- some kinda Torsen CD (usually expensive and haven't seen reports of use in MTs)
- a CD with a locker.locker 2. locker 3
- Ofna spider diff (more expensive and difficult to find but stronger with more gears that will increase the effect of the heavy diff fluid)
- Dual pad center slipper from the Bullet Flux. No idea atm if this would work. Gear is a bit too large for my application for starters. Drive cup size?
- Kershaw Designs direct drive. Not keen on the design for various reasons and the motor placement doesnt work with my build.
- Home brew direct drive. Unlikely I will attempt this.

I've pondered locking the CD for mine as I start planning to convert it to CD. But I'm a bit concerned without running some type of slipper about shocks to the drivetrain. I'd also be interested what you might find out about the Torsen CDs due to their LSD nature.

buddy get rid of the slipperential and get an ofna 6spider centre diff...
Mine has been running beautifully due to the extra gears inside, it can take the power very well...

I have been runing 100k which is a little light... but i have some 500k coming so i will have that running by the weekend. I will get a vid and you can see how it puts the power down with the 500k.
Definitely recommend this centre diff!

Hopefully i will be trying these torsion diffs sooner than thought if i find out what pinions, and ring gear are available that work with the savage bulks and with the torsion diff design...

Doing a bit of home work into it now... ill update you all with what i find and my experience...

dv, i think you were one of the first test subjects to put a slipperential in the Savage and as you say, the weight of the savage may just be too much for it...???

On my last few runs i have been trying out Ofna Diff Lock Lube in the Slipperential. Contrary to my expectations there is a fairly discernible difference compared to running 500K. The truck feels different when turning though it's hard to describe how and it really does feel more locked up 4WD wise. I think it would be hard to tell the difference between this and a locked diff. I prefer this though as there is still some give in the center diff to help dissipate end to end drive train shock. You can still turn the diff by hand albeit very slowly and requires more force than the 500K.

Also filled up the Vorza\Hot Bodies diff with the Ofna Diff Lock Lube and it was a bit harder to turn than the Slipperential, not sure why, maybe its just a tighter diff. For a CD with more gears like Jahay's spider, 500K may be all that's need for a really good locked up feel.

I'm giving up on the stock tires for good. They just don't have the grip an XL length chassis needs to get the power to the ground. I threw on some old HPI GT S tires after driving on stock for months and the difference was amazing. The truck instantly felt like more of an animal, much more fun to drive.

Thanks for the update bud...

I have been using the 500k in my ofna spider diff... Definitely is a lot stiffer to move compared to the 100k, but still offers a bit of give. I am going to continue to use it for a little while longer, but at some point i will be definitely trying the diff lock lube... I think i do prefer the way a savage handles with a tranny (gives it more of a crazy, un predictable drive which i think i prefer for bashing) but for handling, you cannot beat the centre diff with a decent oil weight.

One of the batteries I was using for this truck went bad (charger only picks up 5 cells and I can't see any connection probs with the balancing lead). So I had a look around to see how to dispose of it. It seems they are safe for landfill but should be discharged first to prevent accidents. Quite a bit of older info says to submerge in a bucket of water (correction salt water) for a couple of days to discharge. Other info I have found though says this isn't fool proof and sometimes not all the cells discharge due to electrolysis erosion. Digging a bit further, instead of using the water it's suggested to use a resistive element to fully discharge the battery. Below is my rig to do that, just a couple of 12 volt car light bulbs.

http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/...humbnail-1.jpg

Apparently the battery can puff even if slowly discharged and the gases are flammable so the cells should be punctured after the discharge. Nail taped to a broom handle? Hopefully mine doesn't puff.