A neat little thing I did to help keep the ball ends of the turnbuckles and pushrods from popping off the steel ball. I used two pieces of fuel tubing of the right length on the turnbuckles and o rings of the right size for the pushrods. It really helps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ball_ends2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ball_ends3.jpg

Wow, I would've never thought of that! I'm having major ball popping off issues with this on my ESavage, I'll try this!
Thanks.

Just when I thought you had done it all, here comes another great idea. Please keep them coming.

mistercrash is the man! He has more tips, tricks, mods and stuff than anyone I know, and he does everything so well!

Hey Shaun/MistaCrash...

I've looked thru this thread (which is a LOT of lookin!), and I can't seem to find this mod that you're talking about. I was hoping you could direct me to the post that talks about it?

I like some of the ideas shown on how to strengthen up the rear wing area. I like the one where the shafts mount to the back of the truck, then up to the wing itself. I'm going to get a hold of some P2 rods with hopes to brace my wing up.

Question though.. will I have to fab up a mount for it on the shock mount? My Tekin stabilizer kit has a small screw in the center, but I'm not sure it's adequate to hold. I have some CF that I can cut up and make a mount. I just don't remember if I have a countersink bit. I think I do.

Also, has it been decided as to which "dirt flap" is the best design? Is it the one where you used Gorilla tape, or is it the one where you cut a single piece of rubber? I'm sure both are great!

So, do I still sound mad? LOL! I hope not. :tongue: I never intend to come off that way ever! And if I do choose to be mad, you'll know it. :diablo:

Easy Tiger.

Between your balls and my rod length problems, we might as well buy dresses!

That paints a real ugly mental picture :no:

If I could point out two things..

#1 if it's loose enough to come off you want to swap out the end anyway and this will only hide a problem and may lead to control issues that take longer to realize.

#2 if you swap to the RPM true tracks not only do you get a perfect toe in you don't have rear turnbuckles or any of the hassle that comes w/ them; minus the weight as well.

Just my 2c

I do a no pop mod on my 8ight truggy/buggy steering turnbuckles, which is very common racing, but nothing supporting around the plastic ends. I want to know when the ends get loose so I can replace and keep the control and accuracy.

If you're asking about the no slop Ofna hexes it starts at post #7. For the rear wing I would say yes you would have to make a mount to go on the rear shock tower. The Gorilla tape dirt flaps work good but they are a little soft, the stiff rubber ones were better. No you don't sound mad at all.

#1 - Once they are loose enough to pop off, I swap them out. This is not something to try to make them last forever. Just something to make them stay in place an not pop off during a race. I had brand new ones pop off after two qualifiers for some reason and this helps keep them in their place until the race day is over. I still check them often for excessive wear and change them when needed.

#2 - I don't like RPM plastic, the arms seem to break less because the plastic is soft. I don't like how flexy they are. I don't like that they don't make them in an extended version like the Traxxas ones. Finally, I don't like e-clips.

Don't ask why, I'm just weird that way. :yes:

the threaded inserts was early on in the build i think.
you have to get some du-bro threaded inserts from tower hobbies and matching imperial screws.
so it is best to convert the whole truck to imperial screws and then change over your wrenches.
shaun

Yes but if you buy slightly longer pins you can do a more standard style mud guard as well.. which is another awesome item to have on a dirt track :)

PS I hate the RPM front a-arms, I don't feel like I have the same amount of control as funny as that sounds. The rears though don't bother at all, I'm faster w/ the RPM's on than w/ the stock or extended out racing (Yes I tried them all and took an avg). It's nearly impossible to have a perfectly matched toe in w/ the erevo, and the ends are always stripping out on the rear turnbuckles.. I was EXTREMELY pleased that they were not needed w/ the RPM True Tracks installed.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...h/IMG_1384.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...linh/008-1.jpg
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...EB14_800-1.jpg

Update on the LST diff modification. They are awsome, I disassembled the truck for some end of season maintenance and the diffs have no sign of leakage and run smooth as silk so I just cleaned the outside and put them back in the bulkheads. That's a whole spring/summer of racing and bashing on 4S with a few times having fun on 6S so they are very durable. An original idea from Lincpimp and I thank you for it.

I can't remember if I mentioned how I install them in the bulkheads now, I shave down some material on the aluminum cases of the diffs so that leaves the bulkheads intact except for a small portion that has to be Dremeled to accommodate for the front of the diffs where the two screws are. Here's a few pics, I hope they are self explanatory. This way of doing it coupled with the diff blocks really holds up to some serious abuse.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_xxl_7.jpg

Crash,

Great write up so far. I was actually in the middle of a nitro-revo to E conversion and after reading all this decided I wanted to go full E-Revo BL instead (with a Tekin setup). So thanks for that. Love the battery door mod, I'll definitely be doing that to my doors for ease of use. Have you had any issues with losing body clips on the battery doors while on track? That'd be my only concern.

Also, any chance you might offer the tower spacer to keep the shocks from rubbing or the diff blocks for the LST? I unfortunately don't have the parts making facilities I used to. Either way, great truck and I hope mine will be as nice and consistent once it's done.

Sorry but I really have no time to make parts for people. Lately I don't even have time to go do stuff in my garage. I never lost a body clip on my battery doors and they stay closed no matter what now.

that threaded inserts mod is strong!!
because i run a nitro chassis it cracked!!
right at where the bulkheads join the chassis. under normal circumstances the bulkhead would have pulled out:lol:
got a new chassis for $5 though:party:

6S is fun! To fast for racing but so much fun once in a while. But I think my Badlands are gone, I don't get much grip from them anymore :lol:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ands_worn1.jpg

I am trying new mud flaps I made from battery shrink :mdr: Battery shrink is tough, somewhat rigid and flexible and they are the thinnest, lightest mud flaps I have ever done. They seem to hold up very well, even with the front wheels flinging rocks on them on 6S.

cant race on 6s, grumble mumble...
it's the ONLY way to race lol.
we are all mad at our club and every single one of us runs 6s:lol:
nice job on the baddies :P
also, we think we have found a solution to the plastic rod ends getting their thread ripped out! (even though the last 2 times it happened to me was when the thread itself snapped off in the rod end :mdr: )

we are going to use "ear crimps". someone at the club used them and we just got some to try, will show you guys later.

I wish your track was closer to me :lol:

Sounds like something body piercing fanatics would use. Please post some pics.

Interesting that I make myself a solid aluminum slipper pad and then Traxxas does the same for the new Brushless E-Maxx.

Link

I'm gonna have to get me some of those. My slipper needs a rebuild anyway and I want to try a new spur. Is the bearing on the slipper new or is that also on the standard E-Revo slipper? I've never taken mine apart yet.

The bearing is not new, there always has been a bearing inside the spur on the Revo slipper.

UPDATE AFTER 7 MONTHS OF USE

Here’s a compilation of some of the modifications I have done and have worked really well. There’s also a few hop ups I use and like very much. Every item listed links to either pics on my Photobucket account or a manufacturer for the hop ups.

MODIFICATIONS

LST XXL diffs (I got them from this guy on ebay)
Diff blocks (for LST diffs only, doesn’t work with stock TRX diffs)
8th scale center diff made with a LST XXL diff
No slop OFNA adapters
Aluminum slipper pad
Battery doors mod
Servo blocks
Mud flaps (made of Lexan or hard rubber or whatever else works)
6 mm carbon fiber motor plate
Bottom screw for motor mount
Screws in middle of rear bulkhead
Rear shock tower shim
On/Off switch in a balloon with ''stay on'' blocker
Rear skid plate protector
4 mm screws for motor
Nuts for screws on axle carriers
Set screws and nuts on rocker posts
Rear body mount brace
Pieces of 600 grit sand paper for the pivot balls
Rear turnbuckle ball ends everywhere
O-rings on ball ends to keep them on the ball
All of the Steve Slayden steering and castor mods.
Brass inserts where needed

HOP UP PARTS I HAVE BEEN VERY SATISFIED WITH

Tekno front sway bar mount with a custom sway bar made with this spring steel rod
Traxxas rear sway bar
Racers Edge servo horn
Traxxas Jato Shock boots (other kinds are available from other manufacturers)
RD Racing axle carriers (The stock ones are fine but I really like RD Racing stuff)
RD Racing shock towers front and rear
Proline servo arm for single steering servo
Traxxas red aluminum pushrods and turnbuckles
Variable damping shock pistons
Aluminum pivot ball caps
RC Monster pinions
RC Monster drive shaft coupler to use the center shafts with 8th scale diffs.
Bullet connectors 5 mm or bigger. I use Polymax 5.5 mm bullets.

I think that's it. I hope I didn't forget anything. There are other mods I did that worked but I just don't feel they are worth doing. I did everything as experiments remember? For example, the Summit shafts, they worked great but are not necessary with a good and well adjusted slipper. Once I am done going through the Summit shafts I have left (yes they do wear out but none snapped thanks to the slipper) I will reinstall the original shafts.

That's it! I really feel I'm done with this truck. I need a new vehicle to work on. I really wish I had the money to get one of those to work on. Click here.

I was bored
 

A totally unnecessary thing to do. I put a small motor with a gear drive from an old microwave oven on my truck stand. It takes about a minute and ten seconds to make one full turn. :lol: It's going to be a looooooong winter.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e_display1.jpg

How about ten more openings in the MMM ESC upper case for a bit more airflow? Anyone think this would help a little bit? I don't have over heating issues with my MMM but I thought it might help a bit although it's hard to tell and compare from the temps I was getting this summer. The outside temps are a lot lower now.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._top_case1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._top_case2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._top_case3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._top_case4.jpg

should have pattened the idea!! lot of $$ to be made:lol:

Yeah I must have lost a net profit of at least $100 :sarcastic:

Man, love the rotating stamd! Really shows creativity and boredom! haha

Great write up. Losts of good info. I was wondering how the summit axles have been holding up. I didn't see them in the list of mods and whatnot you posted the other day. I've got to figure something out as far as axles go. It seems like I snap one at the u joint every time out. I'm torn between the summit axles and perhaps MIP spline cvd's. What has your experience been as far as axles?

The summit axles have been good. They don't snap or break as easily as the U joint style shafts if your slipper happens to be set too tight. But they do wear out as quickly as the U joint shafts, and from what I've experienced, every part of the Summit shaft wears out at the same rate and get a lot of sloppyness. So thinking of rebuilding them by changing a couple parts only is futile as every part needs to be changed. Might as well get a whole new shaft. That's a big problem as Traxxas does not and don't seem to plan on selling the Summit shafts as complete units. You can only get them by buying the parts seperately and assembling them. It comes up to over $20 per shaft. Expensive when you compare to the stock U joint shafts priced at just over $10. I'm on my second set of Summit shafts right now and they are starting to get a little slop to them so they are wearing out again. The only way to get complete Summit shafts is on ebay and they mostly sell them in pairs, one long shaft and one short one. You only need the long one so you're stuck with the short one. The short ones can be used but they have to be stretched to the point of almost breaking the rubber boot. This boot doesn't last long when it's stretched like that. I know I tried it. So yes the Summits are tougher but because they are not available at a cheap price, they are not really much of a good alternative and that's why I did not include them in my list of upgrades or mods. If you do try the MIP splines please let us know how they are as I've been eyeing those for a while.

If anyone would like to buy an 8th scale center diff, I have an extra one for the E-Revo tranny and one for the nitro Revo tranny. PM me for details, pics and price.

You ever climb up tree trunks with your ERBE? You know, you see a nice big tree with big roots that give just the right curve from the ground up the trunk and you just send the truck and it climbs the trunk and you do a back flip and land on the wheels. Well I was at the park with my son and while he was playing with some kids, I brought the ERBE out of the car and started playing around in the leaves. The kids and parents were saying ''oohs'' and ''aahs'' at how fast the truck was. So I started showing off by climbing this tree trunk and back flipping the truck back on its wheels and there was some ''WOWS'' and ''That's so cool''. Well I over did it and climbed that trunk so high that it just caught a branch and it did not back flip, it just fell back on the wing from 12 feet high. Result was a broken rear body mount, one of the ball ends of the body mount brace popped off the ball and my CF rear wing mount tie bar broke. Now I couldn't stop because the kids were asking for more so I continued with the rear body mount, wing mount and wing just hanging from the body. After a couple tumbles, the body just ripped in half :lol: But I still continued with just the front portion of the body still on the truck until the LVC kicked in. I couldn't disappoint my fans :rofl: The ERBE is fixed now but I still need a new body. I have the Baja Bug body but I don't want to damage that one just yet.

Lol, that's awesome..

damn MC...:lol: it will be a looooong winter haha...I just ordered a FLM diff for my Rustler...I also got some sandpaw rears on it for the snow:intello: Just for Winter haha..
btw nice stand does it help with work or just for killing time?

The stand is good to work on the truck but not with the motor running, unless you set the thing on a small round table to walk around while wrenching :lol:

So I couldn't wait until I got a new body to run my ERBE. I decided to use my Baja Bug body but I wanted to use the rear wing so I cut the rear engine area of the body accordingly to fit over the wing mount and I kept the part I cut off (engine) and trimmed it to fit inside the wing mount. I used dabs of GOOP to hold it in place and it surprised me how strong it holds. It looks a bit better than to have just a big gaping hole back there. This body is so much tougher than the flimsy Lexan used on the original ERBE body. It's all scratched and dirty already :lol: And the bigger the wheels, the better the truck looks with that body IMO.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe8.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/th_erbe9.jpg

copy me then :lol:
i got hte bug body the day they came out for my revo.
soo cool, i also run a wing so i removed the engine area all together.
BE WARNED!! the rear body mount posts will pull through if you dont re-enforce it now!!

mine did this so i have fixed the problem with some roofing iorn :lol:

umm...you got the short wheelbase body didnt you...
cause that body is too short...oh wait hang on...isnt the E-revo chassis longer than the 3.3?

wow mistercrash, that list on the previous page is an impressive list of hop-ups and I'm sure I'll have fun this winter with copying some of your mods. My revo needs some attention because I haven't run it since I had my xt8 truggy, but it will keep me occupied this winter ;-)

I plan on reinforcing the area where the rear body posts stick out, you're the third or fourth person to suggest I do this so it must be a weak point. No I got the 3.3 extended version and yes it looks short because the ERevo is longer than the 3.3.