those controllers are actually being put through their paces in the boating world. Despite their huge size, they are actually doing great and handling the power requirements of the larger HV boats.

Yeah, I know thats why I got it. I was trolling around on OSE and RRR and read about them. As you said they seem to be doing well so far.

Lots of heat sink space on which to put a fan or peltier cooler.

Anyone see a problem with the dual 12 guage wires?

Dual 12g wire = 6g wire? Or is it done differently on that scale of wire diameter?

I dont see too much of an issue myself, those wires should carry plenty of current before they start to warm up, just have to solder on a nice fat 6-8mm bullet plug good n proper.

I have some 6mm bullet connectors coming.

I'm having trouble getting the programming file to extract though. It came as a .rar not a .exe

every 6awg sizes it doubles in dia. so not quite a 6awg

You need to find the area of the wire. Just using 12 "units" as the diameter because it's 12 AWG.

Area = pi times Radius squared

pi(12)^2 = 452.41 units

pi(6)^2 = 113.10 units

The 6awg is 4 times as big as the 12awg as the area of a circle increases expodentially.

To find twice the size of 12awg, take the area, 113.10, and multiply it by 2. Then take the resulting 226.2 and divide it by pi. You'll get about 72. Find the square root of 72 and that's the gauge wire that is double 12awg.

If my assumptions are correct, twice the size of 12awg is 8.51awg. So 7 or 8 gauge wire will be twice the size of 12awg.

Yes, I do feel pretty cool. :lol:

that speed control looks great with the large heatsink. that should make it much easier to cool. does it have pipes for water cooling also or is it normally cooled with a fan in the boats?

and i wouldnt worry about the 12awg wires. i amsure they will be more than sufficient.

No pipes for water cooling which surprised me since it is marketed as a boat ESC.

Would like to point out that quite a few lipos that can flow 150 amps constant have 12g wires. I don't think you'll have issues with the wires on that esc. If you do, you need to re gear cos you'll be pulling some serious amps!

Great looking truck by the way, real tough.

The boat guys use it as is, as well as adding cooling plates and tubes inbetween the FETs and heat sinks.

DAAAAAYYYUUUUMMM! That's like BrianG status right there!
:lol:

That was pretty good, but this is easier. :lol: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...es/wirega.html

Yeah- that's pretty easy.

Anyone have any ideas for timing for the 2215 motor?

If it has the same number of poles as a 15xx size, then a couple notches above the minimum setting (low-medium timing) would be a good starting point.

On the .rar format issue, use winrar file extractor:

http://www.win-rar.com/download.html

He was able to email me the .exe file instead.

Thanks.

The 15xx and 22xx are both 12 slot 4 pole motors. As for Timing, you are running a Wye wind which is usually more responsive to timing changes. I would suggest starting at 10 degrees and work around that. May ask for more, or may be hot and need less. Watch your temperatures.

Since there are dual power leads would it be worth while to plug 1 battery into each ? Or should I combine each pair of power wires into 1 bullet plug and series 2 batteries together?

You must connect the 2 power leads from the esc to a common connector. Then you can go about series or prarllel connections. You must have the same voltage going to both leads otherwise catastrophe.

Thats what I thought.

so check it out all! i got my spur gear from the CNC today. this is the 36t and the 40t will be done tomorrow. then i will take them to another shop to get hardened. but they turned out perfect. and the motor mount is coming soon.

the 36t works perfect with the standard setup. it fits in the chassis groove for the spur and clears the chassis by about 2mm. the 40t will only require to flip the diff mounts upside down which gives the gear more height off the chassis but still will sit right perfect in the chassis groove and sit a few mm off the bottom. here are some pics of the 36t.

here is the milled area 6mm deep with 4 drilled holes for m4 screws. holes still need to be countersunk.

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01325.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01325.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

here it is mounted up:

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01323.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01323.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01324.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01324.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01326.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01326.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01327.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01327.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

as you can see the gear spins freely.

<a href="http://s471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/?action=view&current=DSC01328.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr77/ryujames/DSC01328.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


i am hoping, hoping, hoping he gets my motor mount done tomorrow!

Nice. That gives me a special feeling.

Looks great!!!

Please, there's little kids on this forum... don't tell us about your "special feeling"!!
LOL

My 4 Zippy batteries came today and I just ordered my gears.

what gears did you order? what are you doing for a spur gear? you doing the same thing i did? did you order that 12t pinion from sdp?

Yeah, I got 40/12 from sdp-si

right on. mine are supposed to be here tomorrow and the CNC said if i bring in the 40t he could get it done tomorrow also. be sure to post some pics of your build as you start putting things together.

Ryu, i was curious about getting some custom CNC work, did you just find a shop locally and have them make what u wanted? Would i be easier if you had the AutoCad Drawings in both paper and digital format for them once they start the work? Reason i ask is because im very handy with autocad and would like a few custom pieces for my setup. Did you just look a CNC up in the phone book? thanks

mentat,
thats exactly what i did. i wish i had the drawing capabilities like you but i dont have the program nor any time or training on any CAD program but anyway, basically i found a place out of the phone book. first i called around to a few places and asked who had the time and was willing to do small jobs. i started at one place and kinda saw that my stuff always got put off for bigger stuff. which is understandable cuz they need to do whats gonna pay the bills. mostly now i work with one place. stuff still gets delayed sometimes but it gets done and i get hands on help and get to be in the shop and such. so you may have to look around to find the right place but find someone that will actually take time to go over your drawings with you becuase most of them wont understand these rc parts first hand. also, if you can draw stuff yourself that will save you time and money. most CNC shops have the ability to download just about any file type so you should be fine. also, i have found that if you will do more parts they are more likely to do work. thats what my guy keeps wanting me to do. is to start making several parts. he makes more that way. so if you can find a need out there for what you are making do some marketing and make a few extras.

i have also seen some mini-mills that you can buy. one guy here on the forum bought one and does his own fab. thats what i would love to do. i just got a tap and die set and did some custom parts today for my rampage. anyway, if you are good with autocad you could probably do well with one of those mini-mills. i think they start at like $1k though.

Ryu, if u ever want some drawings let me know, maybe we can work something out. Thanks for the info. Do u have a link to some of the mills?

Still thinking of watercooling? I came across this old add from Fine Design. You may be able to contact Chris Fine for more details but he's a douche.

http://209.196.57.91/ME2/dirmod.asp?...592E6271EBCEEF

i like the idea of a cooling system that is small enough to fit on the IGT. that would be perfect for mine. i think i will try to get ahold of him and see if he would just sell me the cooling system. i like how that fan is mounted at rear of vehicle and cools the circular piping.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/...s/versions.htm

just google mini-mill and you will find a bunch. one of my rc magazines has a website to a company that makes a very nice one. i will post the site later when i have a chance to look at the mag.

i am pretty sure that one that i saw here on RCM that someone bought was that Grizzly, the first one listed on that page. it appears to be the nicest of all that are listed. but that rc mag has another one that ex extremely nice so i will be sure to post it a little later.

so i got my 40t spur and 12t pinion gear today from sdp. the 40t spur works perfect when you flip the center diff mounts upside down. however, the 12t pinion said that it came with a set-screw in the listing on the site but it showed up today with no set screw. so i am a little chafed about that. it is a really long pinion. i really like it. i am just gonna have my CNC drill and tap it in 2 spots so it will be just like a Tekno long shank pinion. i think it will work well.

and i am still not 100% convinced that these gears need to be hardened. let me know what you think, kaz, when you get yours. they just seem like they are so strong but i dont know a lot about gears and such.

I just checked my invoice and I deffinately ordered the gear with hub & set screw. This is the part number that I got: A 1C 8MYK15012

well. I wont be buying a mini-mill or anything like that. WAY to much at least i think it is. i would rather hire out my projects to a shop. thanks for the info, and the offer still stands on the autocad drawings

If you order anything from Chris Fine I am starting a petition to get you banned from RCM.

nitrostarter should be pimp slapped for bringing him up. (Linc?)

Unless your going to spend megabucks he wont even talk to you (like he did to me when I ordered a pinion from him) and if you do spend megabucks he'll only talk to you enough to get your money and then ship at his leisure and give you poor customer service. Do an RCM search on Fine Designs you'll see.

But go down that road if you wish.....

I still think the Peltier/Thermoelectric cooling systems make the most sense. I would def look into this much more, You dont even need to use the fan. Just the thermoplating is enough.

http://www2.gpmd.com/imagel/m/lmmrc3010.jpg

haha. ok sounds good. i have always hated fine design stuff anyway. when i first saw a fine design IGT at my local track i thought to myself "what a POS!" the motor and battery on the same side?? anyway, point taken. still not sure how i plan to cool this thing but i can assure everyone here that no matter how it is done it will not even resemble anything like a fine design chop shop build. if i ever build a unit that reminds anyone of a fine design car then just shoot me and bury me with the RC car that i built. lol.

that is the same part number as mine but it came without a set screw or hole for one. i am gonna call sdp on monday and see if they will send me a new one with the set screw. you'll have to let me know if yours has the set screw when it arrives.

copy from invoice: A 1C 8MYK15012 1 $19.44/EA $19.44