isnt the truck heavy enough :P looks awesome!

This stuff is amazingly light, the truck is 13 pounds / 6kg ready to run, not bad considering a 14s set-up:gasp:

The large radiator + pump is 50gm /1.8oz, the two small radiators + pump is 38gm / 1.3oz. Tubing and coolant I have no idea yet..

haha that looks so kl!!! very interested to see how this will all work...

I also painted the Willys Jeep body yesterday:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/jeep2.jpg

Right now I have to find out a way to safely secure the radiator and pump to the shassie.. There are no mounting holes or brackets - so back to the work shop.

You are putting a lot in your chassis... its a shame is basically stock length, otherwise you could have plenty of space in there if it was a little longer. I doubt your truck is 14lbs any longer with those big wheels and tyres.... but who cares when you are running 14s!

Did you use the gorilla tape on those tyres?

I'll put it on the scale once finished. I think these tires weight more or less the same as the Panther, but I'll check and get back. Unfortunately - these wheels came glued...

For experiment I bought a extra set of the truggy wheels I previously taped with Tesa Duct Tape and taped the new tires with the Gorilla tape.

The shassie is about 2" longer than stock - but it starts to get crowded in there, I will have to use a BEC for the pump as well:cry:

im starting to think that a two layer truggy style chassis for you would have been better asyou have two levels to fit stuff too... Do you get what i am saying?

You know the savage truggy project going on in the other forum? Imagine a flat bed underneath for just the lipos and the centre diff and drive shafts. And then a second plate on top where the Motor sits on the centre diff, and your large esc has a nice spot to mount as well as all your other electronics? It will give easy access for working on etc...

Just a thought... im not correcting your current design or anything as it would be much stronger than any flat chassis

I had that idea as well, but I fell for the advanced CF & Kevlar moulding. Now when I see the amount of stuff I have put into it - a two layer design in Alu would be a easier choice, but to make it easy was never the goal anyway. The deign would be more "slick" with such design.

I'm thinking of doing a larger 1/5 design in the two layer style, but have not decided what components to rely on yet...

What components to rely on? You already have more than sufficient components for a 1/5 scale which are in your savage already!!! You wouldnt even need a two layer design as the 1/5 scale would give you much room to work with, without the need to create more space! Unless your thinking of running twin motors and a 28s setup haha that would be amazing!

28s was what I used on the Full size bike I built....

Luckily I do all of this out of curiosity and amusement - no rational reasons. Cause then I have to consider it to be work and I have to get payed.. I guess this is why most of us enjoy the custom work and projects anyhow:yipi:

Anyhow - today I spent some time make a holder for the radiator in Aluminium. Ia written before, there was no mounting holes and I have no idea how fragile it is in the connections, so I had to make a frame:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/kylare1.jpg

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/kylare2.jpg

Very nice fab work :)

Thanks - I'll polish it later (maybe)

it's looking real good Mckrill :yes:... can't wait to see it all assembled.

Here's the view with 2 fans installed. Let's see If I need them, but I just had to:tongue:

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/kylare_3.jpg

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/kylare4.jpg

Weight is now 99gms

SWEET!!!!!!! :surprised:

BLOODYHELL that is sexy work right there!!! looks amazing! But seriously... where the hell are you going to mount all this haha!!!

by the way mckrill, you never answered my question, you just said you used it on a bike you build... So can we expect a 28s savage 1/5 scale :) haha

Na, no 28s ESC for hobby use is available yet - but when there is...
In most aspects I think 12s would be the ultimate set-up for 1/5, when I find a suitable empty roller I will built one for sure:lol:

So for a larger 1/5 scale, you think 12s would be more than sufficient.... yet.... you put 14s in a 1/8 xl savage lol hmmmmm makes sense... haha only messing around.

Looking forward to pics of everything connected up as i am still a little baffled by how all this is going to work.

So I finally had some time to continue. I have made the holes for the fans larger 25=>29mm. The fans are OD 30mm. I made the mounting brackets and made a quick installation to start bench testing. Unfortunately I have to use a BEC to run the pump and the fans I had at home was 12v. I will get new fans for 2s or 6v, perhaps larger ones as well etc. The testing will tell the need.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/monterat2.jpg

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/monterat1.jpg

So I made a small video showing the flow etc. I use tap water in the beginning when I fiddle around and try to learn how to fill up the system. I will switch to proper coolant when I am sure about how to get it into the system...

It appears as the fans are way to small, and maybe they are, but the actual radiator part is 33mm high, and the fans 30mm - so perhaps it will be sufficient if I get the flow correct. Tests will tell.

[YOUTUBE]9AIkZXt0r_A[/YOUTUBE]

Haha it looks amazing!!! NEVER seen anything like this personally!

Have you considered getting rid of you LST shocks and installing HPI Big Bores instead? will bring the weight of the truck down a bit, and they will perform better.

Arn't you afraid that the shocktower will flex and hit the radiator? I know the Savage shocktower flex like crazy :)

I really like the idea and execution so far, excellent work!!

didnt you initially want to jump a huge gap or something as well????

This is no longer a machine that is ideal for jumping, i would just keep all 4 wheels on the ground!

[QUOTE=mckrill;373628]So I finally had some time to continue. I have made the holes for the fans larger 25=>29mm. The fans are OD 30mm. I made the mounting brackets and made a quick installation to start bench testing. Unfortunately I have to use a BEC to run the pump and the fans I had at home was 12v. I will get new fans for 2s or 6v, perhaps larger ones as well etc. The testing will tell the need.

:surprised: Damn... good work man... looks a little complicated :)... I am also concerned about having the off wheels the ground with all that delicate equipment on board... are you going to employ a roll cage?

I am so loving this build
Alien

The concern is understood and considered... The flex of the towers forced me to move the ESC already. In my experience the shock tower flex approximately 1cm before the crews bend or the holes in the plastic shock tower breaks. I have apx 12mm play to the radiator. When I flex it by hand the screws hits the aluminium profile, so there is a good chance that it will make it..

There is no more room to move it backwards, so it have to work (or I have to brace the shock towers)

Thanks for the positive feedback guys!

I rely on that the shock towers will stay in place - on the old 6s truck, weighting 5kgs I made several stunts with landing on the "wrong side" - many bodys broke, but never the actual shock towers - all gear is quite well under that line.

Yo Yo Yo!!! you have been a little quiet for some time???

No new videos of the truck running? i want to see how effective this water cooling system is!

I was thinking that, the last thing you need is the shock towers flexing at all... so instead of using the shock towers for mounting a body to it, you should make or buy your own nylon roll cage which attaches directly to the tvps in some way similar to mainst cages...

Also i am considering getting some FLM A arms for when i go 9s. Thought it would be good for handling as the 9s through plastic a arms may cause the truck to weave all over the place... i know you have had some really bad cart wheels, and i am wondering how your arms and bulks have survived? has anything alloy bent or broken yet???

Thanks a lot

Hello again!

Just before my vacation I did a final test run, for apx 4 minutes. I thought the ESC shut down the operation due to heat or low V on the Lipo's. When checking the Lipos it was at decent level, but did not think much more about it.

After installing the cooler I noticed that the ESC was blown... The rotor spun a few revs, and then stopped - anyhow did the heat continue to build up, even with no throttle. The ESC was broken.

Unfortunately did the Schulze team go on a 4 weeks vacation just that week, so I just recently sent it for repair (2 weeks ago).

For the Aluminium: Surprisingly it still hold up, no bent parts or so.

I'll get back when I have some more information to share. I have some more ideas for how to take care of the flex in the shock towers :-)

real shame about the ESC... seems like it cant handle thepower although it is easily rated and capable isnt it?

I really want to see some more vids... especially some top speed passes!!! I wouldnt like to launch this off any jumps but some high speed passes would be nice...

Also how are your FLM arms holding up? any damage to anything when cartwheeliing? would you recommend them?

The FLM's are holding up just fine. The truck packs some pounds when landing, so I am actually quite impressed.

The ESC limits the Current to 210A and should be protected against any such overload. On the logs I had a few spikes all the way up to 210 Amp, but never above. I think it was just a fault item - sh-t happens..

As soon as it's running again I will make some more movies and jump the frigging hill just before winter season so I have some time to repair it over the winter...

i guess faults are always going to pop up!!!

I am very tempted by the flm arms... i am usually against alloy arms, but i feel i need more rigidity in my handling especially when 9s comes about... Im just worried about ripping bulk heads and bent arms on bad landings, and huge cartwheels....

Love this build, pls keep us posted with vids and pics on your progress!!!

Originally my idea was to mold my own arms in Kevlar, and just use the FLM arms until the broke or bent.. But they are quite strong, or I just got the right chain of weaknesses in place, I bent and broke a few tie rods and hubs instead, which is easy and cheap to exchange.

I recommend you to try them out...

thanks for raising my confidence... ill probably give them a try... I am aware that you are using the extended arms correct? i will probably go for the standard length arms as i prefer the flexibility of buying Stock SHD Dog bones rather than depending on FLM if something happens

Yeah, I use the extended arms. The dog bones seem strong as h-ll.. I have driven this set-up on grass with no visible twisting of the dog bones at all. You can buy spare dog bones on the FLM homepage if needed, so just go ahead with a extension:party:

Incredible..Just incredible! Awesome build! :yes:

Thanks for the nice words!

Finally an update..

I just received the Schulze ESC back from service - with the worst thinkable scenario "no fault found - check the motor"..

Crap

Before sending the ESC I checked the motor by running it at 6s, as that was the highest voltage working ESC I had. The motor seemed to run just fine..

Anyhow - I checked the voltage on my Hyperion G3 cells, which I charged for storage last time. Negatively surprisingly I found one of the 6s packs to have a very swollen cell, the 2s pack had only 4v = destroyed. These packs has always been balanced, never charged above 5C, and totally only had 10 cycles = worst crap I have ever bought!!

Luckily I had a set of 3s 3300mAh 45-90C on the shelf, so I could set up a 12s test set up. The motor still cogged, and the heat started to build up in the ESC immy. It however appeared to function a little better than on the 14s test I did before sending it.

I see two scenarios:
1. The test at Schulze was just a diagnostic test and the ESC is still broken
2. The motor has a damaged winding enabling it to function somewhat at lower voltages.

Since I have no other motor that can handle 12s or 14s I decided to buy a Typhoon just for test. The Typhoon corresponds to the Neu 1527, but half the price (and likely half the quality). Compared to the Lehner it's about 3/4 in size and weight.

http://rsb.se/gallery/files/1/5/3/700-98.jpg

The specs are:
780KV, 38mm diam, 98mm length, 8mm axle, Pcont 2400W, Pmax 4800W, Weight 560gms.

I will post my findings on the Lehner once I have had time to take a look inside it.

oh no!!! that is an absolute B***H! i wish you luck with the fault finding...

Sorry to hear about your hyperions... i would be pissed too if one puffed after so few runs...
My G3s are amazing! but i dont see the benefit in spending that sort of money now considering those nano tech lipos seem to be doing a great job

gd luck!

Tnx,

Actually my two chargers have had difficulties to balance these packs all the time. I kind of hoped they would improve after some more cycles, but it turned out to be the opposite..

I'll let you know my findings..