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Here are the settings I have now: A: 3 B: 5 C: 1 D: 1 E: 1 F: 6 G: 1 H: 1 I: 2 J: 1 <object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/3vhwidRhTMI"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/3vhwidRhTMI" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object> |
Try to put the "Automatic correction of neutral" at YES and try it again.
And as i can see, with the newer version, we have the "No Brake" option? That's good when we use mechanical brake!! |
Topas, Freewheel should be set to 'yes' right?
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Look at this funny current values ;)
If my eagletree logger is correct, the max current was 89 A ... (10 samples per second) 300A or 180A is impossible for my old 14cell nimh ! |
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I tried to see if adding drag brake would help, but now the car just accelerates without me applying brakes. The faster it goes in forward the faster it'll spin when drag brake is applied.
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News about low voltage cutoff :
Now I tried a LIPO-setup with racing modus turned off and had the same problems (rpm was reduced when I gave full throttle) . The eagletree logger indicated that the voltage went to 2,89 V/cell on full throttle. I think this wonīt be a problem for a short period and I donīt know why the ESC cuts off or reduces the rpm. So there are three solutions for the problem: 1. Turn on racemode 2. Buy better LIPOS 3. MGM has to improve their algorithm of low voltage detection |
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