IIRC, the 33A Quark FETs are more exposed - kinda like the CC Mamba (regular series). It would be a simple matter to pull the heatshrink off, add a heatsink, install new shrink, and then cut a little square into the shrink (like how BL Warriors are made). Not sure if it's "needed", but it sure can't hurt.

If it isn't 'needed', then i won't bother. Every time i've done something that isn't needed, everything has gone horribly wrong :mdr:

It may not be needed, but it may help the controller's longevity because it is kept cooler. I did that mod to a Mamba25 ESC and it REALLY helped temps.

Dont you trust my opinion Matt :na:

All the 'larger' car escs are made like the 125b with the alu case, but those little universal ones are just shrink wrapped like Brian said, so working on them is vastly easier- you can really go wrong in just sticking on a heat sink & adding new wrap. Or can you....:whistle:

I never had any heat problems with my Quark 33A.

Don't worry it's going to be in the path of air so i should be fine. I don't really want to void the warranty just in case it breaks on it's own, but i will probbaly put a fan on it.

microbump.
it appears i have cracked the front diff case.. i was hearing squeeking and started to clean the truck up, and i just noticed this:
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/6133/p9191215pl6.jpg

the 5000's are a tad bigger than the 4000's, but fit my battery holders fine:
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/6893/p9191220wu5.jpg

posing :)
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/1361/p9191225up3.jpg
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3818/p9191233yc3.jpg
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6433/p9191229ey1.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7745/p9191230xz3.jpg

batteries are soldered, and everything's ready to go.. i'm leaving the cracked diff case, for now, because i don't have a spare. hopefully it'll run ok.

Don't know how something like that happens. Truck looks great!! How are the TrueRC packs doing? So you are running the packs in parallel, eh? What kind of run times are you getting?

i loved my old packs, havn't run these packs yet. i'll run the truck on saturday to make sure it's in check, and race sunday. yep, parallel. 10,000mah and 100/150 amps. conservatively. i've yet to run the truck till the batts run out, but i'd estimate 30min w/ the 4000mah packs. dunno about the 5k's.

Are you running the 3s pack opposite the motor? The set up is still the same as in your signature, correct?

Sorry for all the questions, I am just wondering because I plan to convert a truggy after my Revo gets finished.

no 3s pack. two 5s1p packs in parallel, so 5s2p total. the small 3s pack in the picture a page back, is for my transmiter.

Does running packs in parallel make it harder to balance them? That is what I have heard...

Is there a decrease in weight when running two packs in parallel rather than running two packs in series equaling the same voltage and mAH?

Well lipo cells vary a minute amount in energy density depending on the mah, and shape of the cell... so, it could very well be that one way might be a little lighter than the other (2p vs. a larger 1p), but I don't know which is the best way. Also, if you have to do more wiring, that will add mass as well, and connectors. Who knows? :neutral:

Using the same number of the same type of cells (2x 5s1p or 1x 3s2p + 1x 2s2p) the total weight should the same. There might be a slight difference in the amount of wire, depending on how it's done, but it wouldn't be noticeable.
I think the best thing about using 2x 5s1p packs instead of a 3s2p and a 2s2p would be the balanced weight.

Cells in parallel should balance each other, so it shouldn't be much different I wouldn't think.

Yeah, the 'should' balance each other, not if you have two whole packs in parallel. Each cell in the whole pack would have to be paralleled to do that... is that what you are talking about?