The gears are scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday so I will let you know. If these gears aren't hardened you could always just drill and tap a set screw hole yourself. Sears sells individual drill and tap sets that range from $4 to $7. Are you goung to grind a flat on the motor shaft for the set screw to hold onto? Are you going to put 2 set screws in the pinion?

I ordered (3) 30mm by 30mm peltier coolers for cooling. They will work great for the ESC but a fan will probably be easier for the motor, because of the round shape.

I ordered some of those Jim Williams strap mounts for the motor. He is about 3 weeks behind making mounts though.

Do you think it would add too much weight to go 10S2P on the batteries?

I'd avoid TECs if I were you. They require a lot of power and if the hot side gets too hot you can burn the entire unit up. If that heatsink isn't enough to keep it cool then put a fan or two on it.

go 2p. the additional weight will pale in comparison to the additional current available.

paralyzed- Come on now! I wasn't telling him to go through Fine. I even noted that he's a Douche! :lol: I was simply giving him the idea's and pictures for a watercooling setup.

i bought a craftsman metric tap and die set on ebay 2 weeks ago and it has already come in very handy. i used it to tap and drill holes into a set of aluminum hinge pin braces and then screwed them to the chassis. they are just like the ones you can get on the rampagehopups site but they have been out of stock forever so i just made my own. i was amazed at how well they turned out. the 5mm screws go in very smoothly and perfectly. wish i would have bought one of these sets a long time ago. i used a 1/8" drill bit for the 4mm screws and 5/32" for 5mm screw holes and both worked perfect.

so i thought about tapping the pinion myself but i really want to get the holes straight and all i have for drilling is a cordless dewalt. i do plan to flatten one side of the motor shaft and then put 2 set screws in the pinion cuz it is very long.

Our mod 1.5 pinions use a 5mm set screw. 4mm set screws are used on the mod1 pinions. :)
Oh, and the project is looking good - I am anxious to see the finished truck. :)

so i took your advice and Kaz and "grew a set" and drilled and tapped the pinion gear myself. its not perfectly straight but it went a lot better than i expected. here are some pics. you can see how long this gear is. i used 3/16" drill bit and 6mm x 1.00 tap. 6mm set screws go in perfect. fat little stubbies, they are!

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after i typed that i realized that. the reason i was thinking 4mm cuz the ramp uses 6mm screws and i thought they were 5mm so then i thought the smaller ones were 4mm. but i see both a 5mm and 6mm in the stock rampage drivetrain. i ended up using 6mm on this pinion only because i had 2 set screws the right size in 6mm. i didnt have any 5mm ones.

thanks for the feedback mike. btw, i still plan to use your pinions on this. i got the 12t only in case i am having heat issues. if i can get away with running 15t or 16t believe me, i will.

Just don't forget to harden that 12t before you try it - otherwise, you get more practice with the drilling and tapping when you make another one. :)

That pinion is really long. I was thinking about putting the set screw holes on opposite side of the hub from each other instead if "on top of " each other. That was you could make use of the entire length of the pinion if necessary.

For those who use bullet connectors: Do you cover one to prevent accidental shorting?

Ryu: Like Mike said, I would definitely get the Pinion's hardened. They will take more of a beating than the spurs will. Remember they are turning 3 times more than the spur gear is. You may be able to get away without hardened the spurs, but the pinions are a must.

i thought of doing setscrew on each side but i wasnt sure if i would then need to flatten both sides of the motor shaft. remember that 37t smartech spur gear i bought? it had a hub on it and set screws on each side from each other so apparently it is something that is done.

as for bullet connectors. i used to have 6.5mm bullets on everything i ran (have switched recently) and you need to use heatshrink on both. just make sure that the batteries always have the female connector. on this project i will be running 8mm connectors on motor and esc but not on the batteries. they are just too much of a pain. here is the thing, first the larger connectors are really hard to get apart when they are put together like they should be so after a few uses you end up pulling off the heatshrink when you are trying to get the connectors apart. also, you have to always be watching and be careful for shorts. although i never had one short on me, my buddy did. just a tiny bit of gold was showing cuz his heatshrink had been pulled back, just like i mentioned, and he had his short several times, both while running and when disconnecting/connecting. so for me i run 6.5mm or 8mm connectors from motor to esc but on the lipo-esc connection i just use the losi ec5 connector. these are high current like dean or traxxas but much easier to solder and large enough for 10awg wire no problem. sure they dont have as much amp capability but i didnt notice a difference when i swithced to them from the 6.5's. anyway, just my experience with using large connectors on lipos.

oh, and thanks guys. i will take your word for it and get all these gears hardened.

don't flatten both sides.. one set screw is enough...
Those 8mm bullets are just brutal... very strong hold, but stick to dual 5.5, 6.0 or 6.5.. works great...

got to work on the 1/5 tonight a bit. installed the battery trays. used RCM trays with 6mm Ramtech wood screws.

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James sent you a pm the other day


Looks good so far :)

What batteries are you using again?

I was thinking about cutting off the part of the center locker top plate that the brakes hooked to but that might make a good place to mount the ESC.

It is generally considered bad practice to use set screws at 180 degrees from each other on a shaft in applications like this. This would be less secure than a single set screw. The very tip of both set screws becomes the only contact points on the shaft, while a single set screw allows the entire opposite side of the bore to engage the shaft - much larger surface area for securing the gear.
If 2 set screws are desired, they should be located 90 degrees apart. :)

i am using NeuEnergy 5s 30c 5000mah. 2 of them. if i was just going to use the stock center top plate and not mounting anything to it i would cut off that side part where the stock brakes were. i am actually going to make my own center plate out of carbon fiber and make it large enough to mount the stock rx box where my esc will be. i will also have a little pulley mounted that will direct the cables from the integy disc brakes to the brake servo. this is my plan anyway. but of course sometimes things dont always go as planned when you start building. but i defintely want to mount my esc on top of the center diff so that it is between the motor and batteries. that way i wont have to run any wires that are too long. depending on how i cool things i may make a larger carbon rear top plate also to mount a water tank and pump on. as soon as i get my frickin motor mount back from CNC i will be able to really start on this. i dont want to do anything until i get the motor mounted and know exactly where it will be.

hey Mike,
can you tell me the hardness rating on your mod1.5 gears? i contacted a local shop to harden my gears for me but they need to know how hard to make them and also what grade of steel they are. i am gonna check with SDP on the steel rating but i was hoping you could tell me how hard your gears are. Thanks.

48 Rockwell hardness on my gears. I think the SDP gears are made of 12L14 steel, which can only be case hardened(this is OK, but not as durable overall as through-hardened gears of the correct material - less longevity)

woohoo! i got my motor mount finished today. went into shop and finished up work on it with CNC friend. turned out sweet. i made 3 of them so i have 2 extra. if anyone is interested in one pm me for pricing.

so here are some pics. let me explain a couple of things first. the notch on one side of the face of the motor was necessary to give enough clearance for the center diff outdrive cup. i couldve done the part without the notch but that would have limited gear selection.

the reamed out insidea area of the mount is in 3 steps. first outer width fits perfect around the fins of the motor, 2nd width fits snug over the screws that hold that front endbell on, and the 3rd width fits snugly around the face of the motor which is the smallest diameter. fits like a glove.

the motor mount will sit on 1" wide x 2.5" long x 3/16" thick plates that will allow the motor to slide 3/4" side to side to adjust for gear selection and mesh. this allows me to go from 12t to as high as like 20t pinion gear. the plates didnt get done today but will be done tomorrow.

i got the 40t spur machined and its in the pics. still needs to be hardened though.

anyway, i am really happy with how the mount turned out. it will be mounted using 5mm screws throughout. there are no holes in the top of the mount yet for a fan since i have not recieved a 60mm fan. i willl just drill and tap those myself.

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Great work James! Really coming along nicely! I'll be watching this thread for updates. :yes:

thanks Jnev!!

Wow. I've seen your kits before and I had some really dang high expectations when you said you were doing a 5th scale. Needless to say, I'm blown away. Great job so far! :great:

Can't wait to see it completed!

That looks F*ckin awesome James!!!!

Let me know when it's done so we can head out to do some action video of it. Excellent work as always!

Wow, thats astounding- very nice! now get it running and take vid...
:lol:

The motor mount looks sick! I was wondering how you were going to do it. It looks just like the Tekno stuff, which is a great way of mounting the motor. I would say to make sure the chassis doesn't flex so the gear mesh remains the same.

Looks great!!

wow its really coming together

i have thought this also so i have an idea for eliminating too much chassis flex. i will be working on it this weekend hopefully.

Looks beautiful man..!

Awesome....When do you think it'll be up and running?

Beautiful, simply beautiful. :smile:

I am anxious to see this thing running, and on some jumps too!

My pinion came with out a set screw also. I will have to call them tomorrow.

yeah i have already gone through calling them and jumping through hoops. just to save you some time what you need to do is email Deloris Miller at dmiller@sdp-si.com and explain what happened. give her part # and order #. i just got a reply form her today saying the engineer or something is checking things further. hopefully they will just get me another gear sent, even though i have already tapped the gear they sent now.

This sucks. They changed their web site. The hub & set screw option isn't offered now. I hope they changed it in the last day or so since you contacted them.

How deep of a hole did you have machined out of the gear? I think it needs to be 4mm deep to have enough of the shaft sticking out the other side to fit on the bearing.

I'm going to a machine shop this morning.

What size set screw did you use in the pinion?

I think we are going to be SOL...

Her reply to my email was that the website "had" and error and has since been corrected.

i had 6mm machined out of the spur gear. 6mm is ideal cuz it allows the shaft to protrude far enough through to sinc up to the bearing right but also leaves 1mm of space between gear and bearing so it freely spins. 6mm worked perfect imo. you could go 7mm and then have 3mm thickness which is same as stock and then take off 1-2mm of the entire gear so the gear is only like 8mm thick instead of 10mm. this would shed weight but cost more.

as for the pinion i used a 6mm set screw. if your machinist is like mine and doesnt have metric stuff tell him to drill a 3/16" hole in the pinion for a set screw and then the 6mm tap works perfect.

i have been using this guide for my own tapping and drilling. your machinist will have the same type of chart.
http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/I_Tap&DieChart.pdf

hmm, initial reply i got was engineer was checking and now havent heard back still. but if she said that i agree. just have to drill and tap your self like i did i guess. mine turned out fine. doesnt look factory but it will work. and actually it is soooo close a fit with the 12/40 that i think i am gonna end up using like 15/40 instead. i hope temps are ok this route.