I'm thinking this is about a 500kv motor that's capable of over 100amps. :yes: The Croco site stated that a single strand of 18awg would max out around 50amps. It stated that was about all 18awg 200C rated wire could handle. This custom wind has 6 strands of 22awg 200C wire. :yes: (note: most manufacturers use 30awg wire)

I went with the 4130 because of the longer magnets and the longer stator. I knew it would make alot more torque. The wye wind seems to give alot better EMF back to the ESC. I believe this is why it is working better.

My Tower order will be here either tomorrow or Wednesday. In it is a 2826/10 for the E maxx. I'll probably set it up and play around with it until I can get the 2 speed kit. I need another Quark ESC though. :whistle:

I really think it will work GREAT with the factory wind, but we'll see. I know it's not really gonna rock until I get the 2 speed kit.

I think I have enough gears here to get the most out of the factory wind in 1st gear. Get the setup right where it doesn't cog at all with 1st gear, but tops out the highest. Then I KNOW 2nd gear will just give a huge top speed boost. :yes:

It should Rock and Roll.

Sounds good sike, can't wait to see how the emaxx goes. I may have to pick up a smilar motor. Are you going to run a quark 80, or the 125?

I have to send my Quark 80 in to get it fixed. If I don't come up with a ESC really quick, the Monster Pro 125 that I have will be jumping back and forth between the E maxx and the Revo. :lol:

Do you know of any place that sells the Quark Air Master ESC's? I've been playing around with brushless boat ideas. The Air Master's would work great for that. :yes:

May I suggest the hydra 120 or 240. Thay are purpose built esc for boats, and watercooled. What do you want to run, inrunner or outrunner? All of castles boat escs are good to 6s and will work with wheel radios.

I have both an airmaster 80 and 125. Nice esc, but they need the heatsink mods just like the car versions. They will work with a wheel radio without a pixstix adapter.

The supervee 27 motor and esc are good to about 3/4 hp on 4s lipo. The esc is waterproof and water cooled, and the motor is a 6 pole inrunner. It is agreat sytem, can push a 30" boat over 40mph with the correct prop. Plus it is cheap! Both tower and horizon sell the air masters, if you really want one let me know and I can get you a deal.

I checked out the Supervee, and it's tempting. But I think I would like a Deep V hull better because of the added stability.

I'm really unsure what I want in the boat realm at this point. Something stable and kinda quick. Not too fast though. Mainly just something to play around with out in the Big Boat when the fish aren't biting.

I think I can get my Lady into boats. She seems interested.

I didn't see the Air Masters on Tower. Horizon is pretty proud of them though. :whistle:

On the E maxx subject, it won't be so demanding because of the lower gear ratio. This will eliminate cogging and allow the use of a much higher kv motor.

I wanted to challenge myself with this Direct Drive Revo. But it has been such because of the 4.3:1 FINAL gear ratio.

I have a good unaltered Revo Tranny on Ebay if you need a spare.

It's gonna go cheap. :yes:

Estimate - Hard
Measure - Simple

Apply fixed (measure) voltage - measure RPM
Spin with fixed (measure) RPM - measure voltage

I have it watched, thanks for the heads up. When are you going to part those two new emaxxs?

I'll probably start putting parts up late in the week or the weekend.

Feel like selling me a tranny? How about the complete chassis, tranny and steering setup? I have the bulks and a set of aftershock diffs. Plus I have a set of hybrid bulks too.

Won't he need to use an AC voltmeter setting, and won't it give an RMS voltage out instead of the required DC input for the given speed? I can't find any info on how a 3 phase would be tested for kv.

H-Bridge is built-in into FET's

PM sent

You are talking of the ESC right? I'm confused now :lol:

Hey sikes sorry if you answered this but what was the final out come of your motor selection (I get dumb founded by the tech talk LOl)? I would like to attempt (direct to diffs) this with the maxx im building.

Have your test motor attached to ESC and Voltmeter to battery connector, leave battery unplugged. Spin motor shaft and record peak voltmeter readings.
Do not forget about RPM, you need to know motor speed to calculate Kv value.

I got to run the Revo some more today. 4S is sweet! :yes:

So I put it on 5S, considerably faster.

Then I put it on 6S. It runs great on this. A real power house with a rooster tail of gravel and dirt following it where ever it goes.

During the 6S run, I noticed I only had front wheel drive! :surprised:

I was thinking "Oh NO!" What could this be?

Turns out I stripped a hex on one of the rear wheels. Good sign of power. :yes:

Sweet, sounds like a great setup. Maybe I need to bribe you to wind me a motor like that:wink:

I just put a set of the NEW E maxx wheels and Tires on this Revo.

Remember I said I thought one of the diffs was popping under acceleration? Well as it turns out, with the new wheels and the steel hexes, that sound is gone!! :yipi:

What I must have been hearing was the wheel hex skip a notch while it was on it's way out.

Yeah, I just "blew" the brand new diff out of my 5s emaxx. Turned out to be a hex that is now a circle! Cheap quick fix! The wheel nut was loose so that must have been the problem.

The new E maxx wheels nuts have the teflon ring for self locking, but they also have a grip surface where it contacts the rim. This should work better.

The old nuts kept backing off, so now I'm putting Blue Loctite on the axle threads before I put the wheel on. If this doesn't work, I'll use the Green Loctite. There's alot of pressure on these.

I noticed there's about .5mm of play between the hex and the bearing race. Do you ever shim your wheels to take all the play out?

I'm thinking about it.

I usually just run them as is, but if they are really loose, I put a teflon washer between the inside bearing and the drive yoke. The tmaxx hexes have a small raised area that contacts with the inner part of the bearing. That will usually sandwich up tight when the wheel nut is tightened.

Traxxas does make wheel shims. Traxxas part #3982 is a pack of 10 shims that are 6mm x 8mm x .5mm Perfect! No more wheel side to side play. :yes:

I got the Revo setup on my New Firepower 20C 5000mah 6S!

Took it out for a test spin. It Rocks! All this time I was playing around with 10C Lipo's. These 20C packs really hold the voltage up there. MUCH more punch!

From a 15mph punch, it will flip over backwards and start doing cartwheels. LOL

Here's what the new setup looks like. 6S, CC BEC, and a Novak 2700uf Cap. The Quark works GREAT on this. Thanks Linc. :yes:

I'll get a vid soon.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC06810.jpg

Will you charge and balance those as a 6s pack? Do you use velcro to hold them down?

Some advice, You should get some electric goo to cover up the bare wires between the caps. You will loose alot of resistance in that.

I charge them as 3S packs.

Yes there is Velcro in there. :yes:

Bare Wires? Where's a Bare Wire? :surprised: LOL

You know you loose a lot of resistance with bare wire. I hear that if you have enough exposed wire, you can have a superconductor!

Sike, Do you run the Novak cap on the battery/esc wires? What exactly does it do to help?

You hook it up as close to the esc as possible, located on the battery wires. It helps to reduce esc operating temps by at least 10-15*, and also helps to absorb voltage spikes from the esc > batteries. It can also help to smooth out power delivery from the batteries, by providing a steady current from the caps so that the batteries arent overdrawn during heavy load situations. or something along those lines; all I know is I added an extra novak cap to my hvmaxx and it helps smooth things out no-end, especially towards the end of the run when the batteries drop-off.

Hey Sike, glad that the quark is working out for you.

Are the diffs holding up better for you with the better bearings?

The teflon washers are the ones I use to shim up the axles, usually one does the job!

About the bare wire thing, you guys are joking right? I can't see the rubber coating lowering the resistance, maybe I am missing something?

I'm uploading Video's to Youtube right now. I'll post vids in a few minutes. You're gonna think this belongs on "beat your truck" or something. LOL

The Diffs held up great through the first run, and ummmmm well.........15 minutes into this run, the rear pinion bearings went out. The gears sounded like they were munching on balls.

I'm not sure what to do at this point. The 10/43 gears won't and don't hold up to this kind of power. The spiral cut loads the pinion bearing like a thrust bearing. Even the Ceramic Nitride bearings can't take it.

I might go with the 13/43 straight cut gears and try again. They will tend to side load the bearing instead of loading it like the spiral cut gears are doing. This custom Wye Wind starts better and makes more torque, so I think I still have a shot at it even with the 3.3:1 ratio.

Somebody show me a Diff that can stand it and I can make the power to shove through it. LOL

Very good description Neil! :yes:

OMG That's Hilarious! :lol::rofl::yipi::na:

Sounds like it is time for a needle rooler bearing, not sure if you could find one that is the correct length to replace both of the stock bearings. You would need to have the diff cases machined to remove the two raised portinos that hold the std bearings in place. I vaugely remember that a needle bearing will hold up better than a ball bearing will, in a situation where there is alot of side loading. Sounds like the races are just getting hammered and falling apart.

I have a feeling that the hpi baja diff will be able to handle your outrunner, but it may not fit in the revo very well!

A Needle Type Thrust bearing would be ideal! Problem is, I don't think anyone makes them in this size.

I just charged the Batteries back up. 15 minutes of running like this on 6S used 2182mah according to my MRC Superbrain 989. This setup would run HARD for over 30 minutes before it hit the cutout.

Dang Dang. What to do? LOL

I'll have to check that diff out Linc.

What kind of diffs do those 1/5th scale Firehammer's have in them?

Check this out! :yes:

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Awesome! That motor just tosses the rig around! You got lucky many times on the rollover, almost 90% recovery rate back to the tires!


Who else wants to see sike take those dirt piles like a set of doubles?

Power!!!!
 

The raw power of that thing is absolutely awsome. Can you imagine a race with like 10 or 15 vehicles with that same amount of power all barreling around the race track together:lol:? That was pretty cool Sikes. Thanks for sharing that with all of us. I hope that you can find the right Diffs to handle that thing. Overall it seemed to run very well, so we know that you had it hooked up pretty well. Great job:intello:.

Very Nice!!!!

Traxxas really needs to come out with a wheely bar for the revo, something like the setup for the maxx trucks. Looks like your custom wind works very well. Good luck with the diffs, maybe somebody makes a really heavy duty bearing?