Yep, i just got a MMM V3 last week. Im running 5s, same as in the vid, im not THAT crazy :tongue:. My MGM is limited upto 6s anyway. No worries on the ratio, ill work it out now, just didn't know which diffs you were running (RCM buggy or truggy :neutral:) Gotta remember the gmaxx single speed ratio is 1.7777, but with the CD its 1:1, i've also got buggy ratio diffs, so the spur/pinion will be kinda weird. No need for the gears, i don't think they'd fit between the frame rails, ive got a 48/10 combo to try out. I'll crunch some numbers right now, but i think theres something wrong with Brians calc, theres a Neu 1515/3D, but no Neu 1515/3D (polished) option :neutral:.

The necks real good now, im back to running, riding, gyming again. I just got cleared to get back into all this stuff a week ago, also back at work which is good, i need more money for RC :intello: Unfortunately i cant get back into a race car for another 3 months, need to wait for the muscles/nerves to regenerate, (they take alot longer than bone.) So hopefully by March everything is all good.

have a good sleep :sleep:

EDIT: thanks to BrianG's calc, heres what i got...

Shauns final drive ratio: 16.04537:1

My 42/16 final drive ratio: 8.68269:1

My 48/10 final drive ratio: 15.87692:1

My 46/12 final drive ratio: 12.67949:1

Now i know why my MGM burnt... :oops:

[Jordan I laughed my but off when I read that!! :intello:

Thanks for the smile and small hernia.. :wink:

P.S.
I'm GLAD to hear about your neck!.. WAY COOL..:yipi:

Time for some updates i think!!!

I got my gears from Amain, ordered Tuesday, arrived Friday, cant get much better than that!! So i went about modding my CD mount and my frame rails to fit with the larger 48t spur gear. I cut a slot into the bottom diff plate for clearence, and also notched out the frame rails. I also went about direct soldering my motor to the MMM wires. I had to make some small extensions to get them to reach. I think the MMM install went great and im happy with how clean it looks. Here are some pics...

Down for maintanence

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00137.jpg

slotted and notched parts

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00126.jpg

wire extensions and motor with wires directly soldered

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00139.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00138.jpg

Some pics ready to run!!

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00142.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00144.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00146.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00148.jpg

Read on to see the truck with the MMM ran...

... so i took it out for a run this evening.

WOW is all i can say :gasp: With the lower gearing this thing came alive. Still no wheelies, but SO much power, and all of it useable. Handled awesome as before. Mostly kept all four wheels planted round quick corners and pulled some nice 4 wheel drifts. The MMM ran excellent!!! It was really smooth on startup, no cogging at all, the brakes were perfect and it really delivered the power smoothly through the whole throttle curve. So happy with its performance, my temps after about 15-20mins were

motor 110-120F
ESC 120-130F
batts 80-90F

The fan only came a couple of times, but after i let the truck sit for around 10 seconds it went off and was ready to go again. I'd like to say that the MMM really can handle any motor thrown at it, great job Castle!!! :great: :yipi:

Heres a vid:

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...h_MOV01298.jpg

Now for the aftermath, can you spot whats wrong with this pic

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00149.jpg

The pillowballs screwed out, which made the driveshaft pop out of the cup, and under some hard breaking, sheared the pin :cry:

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00150.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00151.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00152.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...x/DSC00153.jpg

My question is, is there an easy fix for this problem? Can i get the pin out somehow, i was thinking about drilling it out, and then put a drill bit or allen key in. Much like the roll pin mod people do in the 3906 tranny's. Any suggestions, i cant wait to run this thing again!!!

hope you liked the updates
jordan

Press.
 

The pins are surely put in with a hydraulic press, so you should be able to press it out if you have access to a press. Then press a new pin back in. Yes a drill bit or allen key should hold up just fine. Nice work on the vehicle, and it looks to run pretty well with the MMM. How much does that thing weigh loaded up? It looks to be kind of heavy in the Video. Just curious. Looks like you have a new bouncing baby boy on your hands. Way to go Jordan.:lol:

i have got a mate whos a mechanic, so i should have easy access to a hydraulic press. It is a bit of a beast, 14lbs all loaded up. It sure did run well with the MMM V3, time will be the test now i guess, hopefully it doesn't crap out on me after a couple of weeks. :angel:

Not Too Bad.
 

Well considering what you have in there, that is not too bad for weight. Half of that is probably batteries, and motor. All you can hope for is that it holds up until your MGM is returned from the factory. I would have some fun, but nurse it a little bit until you get close to having the MGM back, then run the hell out of the MMM. Then you will have a good comparison going between the two. You can also order those driveshaft pins either from UE, or RCAlloys. I am not sure if Mike has them or not here on RCM. It would not hurt to have a few spares on hand for future issues.

Want more usable power, lock your center diff or go with what I use in my 1/8 scales, the Ofna solid center. I was having similar issues with my 14lbs (Maybe more when I use 5S2P TP Extreme the long ones lol) as it would just unload all the power to the front wheels. I tried different diff oil and went up to 100K and it would still unload. After I installed the solid center, it became just like my 4WD 1/10 scale and drives like it too, but not with the 5S2P lol. I can do wheelies anytime I feel like it. Look at this picture, it's a perfect match for the 1527 :lol:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/TheGang5.jpg

Hey Lutach you sure like running HV setups.

wow:surprised:the 1527 are really big...oufffi want one f these beast for testing the v3

Yes sir, it's good for my soul lol. Everyone should give it a try at least once with the proper set up.

RELIGiON
 

Don't you know that is his religion:yipi:. It is called the house of HV... :rofl: Not to be confused with HIV???:lol:

Praise the HV lords lol. Can I get an HVmen....

Sorry about that. I had an HV spirit get in my body just now :lol:.

Jordan, your tires are spinning and a lot of weight is toward the front= no wheelies. You need to run on street and lock your CD and wheelie central...

Lutach: HV!!!!

Holy Holy Holy.
 

Jordan, your tires are spinning and a lot of weight is toward the front= no wheelies. You need to run on street and lock your CD and wheelie central...

I agree. If you lock up the center diff and stick to running on asphault you can try for some high speed. I am not a huge fan of wheelies, but you may need so shift some of your weight to the rear for that.


Kind of an out of body HV experience we assume. Just don't start chanting.

Thats a nice collection of motors Lutach :surprised:

Im not to fussed about the whole wheelie thing at the moment, id rather save my front and rear diffs than lock the CD. That was the idea of the CD instead of the e-maxx tranny in the first place. I might run a thicker diff oil, maybe try and run 50k and see how that turns out.

I didnt change the setup on my truck from when i bought it. and on 4s it would scrape the rear wing on the floor. when i stripped the diffs there was grease in the cd. i think if you lighten your truck you will see wheelies. try running smaller 3s packs for 6s

Hey Jordan did the calcs and found out that my overall drive ratio is 8.9-1:surprised::surprised::surprised:
I looked at the calculator and saw that if i add the truggy diffs it will work out to be about 13.5-1 and if i drop my gearing down it will go to 18.92-1, a lot safer. By the way the top speed with 8.9-1 is 82mph drag adjusted:gasp::whistle:

8.9:1 ey :lol:, you have run it before right? did your speedy get hot? From Shauns gearing i reckon around 15-16:1 seems about right. 18.92:1 would be alot safer, but make sure you dont go too far and undergear it, then the motor might start getting toasty. Drag adjusted of 82mph, thats insane specially with a 1515 :gasp: Keep us posted with how your changes go, have you got the RCM hybrid diffs on your truck? Im assuming you have the buggy diffs in now?

nope got the standard erevo/revo diffs in it. yes i have run it a few times i justput 50000 in the CD 30000 in the front and 7000 in the rear to get it to handle better. it will still wheelie to my hearts content but not as easy as before. i will have to get the truggy diffs in it soon to take care of the speedy but so far it is doing fine. the only time i got it to trip the fuse was when i was putting it through its passes on 4s. i had it in an area about 3x3m and was making it wheelie non stop from one side to the other for about 5 mins straight. as soon as i hit neutral on the tx it reset and was fine. it would run better with better batteries. at the moment i am running maxamps until my flight powers arrive. i think i will put in the truggy diffs and play with the gearing to get some middle ground

Nice to see the truck running well at last, its been a long old build. On the cvd issue, you can buy a device called a 'bone saver' (anyone remember that conversation, one for the history books..) that you can use to extrace and replace the broken pin with, if the press doesnt work.

Hey Jordan..

It was great to see it starting to finally take on speed!.. I'm sorry to hear / see your current issues. On the positive side, now you can prepare for this repair in the future as well to cut down on (down time). Example My truck has a few weeks points and I've learned them so when it brakes I've got spares, now you know a week point of yours too so it’s kind of good thing (sorry just trying to positive spin a shitty situation!) LOL.LOL..

Best of luck Jordan..

P.S.
It’s an awesome build…:intello:

good idea, what voltage are you going to be running with the Flightpowers, still 4s? I think i'm going to try 50000 in my CD, and maybe 75000 if that doesn't lock it up enough.

Thanks Neil. Ahh yes the bone saver, i was searching through the arcives and i think i saw something from '06 on that? Definately has been a long build, pretty much exactly 12 months, time flies when you're having fun i guess :neutral:

Thanks Shaun. The speed is getting there, still would like it a bit quicker, but im working up to that. I'd rather that than just stupidly fast straight away, and two stripped diffs and broken driveshafts. At the moment i dont think that that was a weak point on the truck, more operator error :oops: I musn't have tightened them up enough, thats whay they came loose. All the other corners held up ok though, so thats a plus. Hopefully with some thicker diff oil it'll gain some punch off of the line.

I dont think outright speed is that great anymore. I have an inferno GT that does 112kmh (checked with radar) and its still nitro:gasp: I think i will get the kyosho 777 conversion kit from castle and put a 2200kv combo in it with 6s, just to see what happens:whistle:
I think in a MT about 40mph is quick enough for bashing and racing, but in saying that i think i will have mine set up so that i can change batteries and pinion and do one or two quick 60-70mph runs, and than let the speedy cool down :smile: hahahahaha

Well i just gone done stripping down the truck and checking bits and pieces after its first proper run. Apart from the broken driveshaft pin, i found one of the grub screws in the stub axle of the right rear cvd had come loose, and the pin which holds the stub on was half hanging out. It scraped a little gouge in the back of the knuckle, but no real damage and an easy fix. Apart from that, all looks good, i've gone through and loctited all the pillowballs, so hopefully no more sheared pins. Instead of a drill bit, im going to press out a pin from a spare centre dogbone to replace the cvd pin, should do the trick, unfortunately it probably wont be till the middle of next week. Also replaced the CD oil with 50000 wt. Can't wait to have another run to see how it handles now!

Good Thing.
 

Well the good thing about having to go through your truck like that, and make repairs like this is that you become even more familiar with your vehicle and how it responds to your mechanical ability as well as your driving. I think that we all run into little issues like that after doing such a big project. Things just get overlooked no matter how hard we try no to. Plus there are teh rare failures of parts that we have to expect. I am actually planning to strip my entire project down once I get it finished in order to redo all of the harware and loctite everything that needs it. I have an entire stock of titanium screws for it when it goes back together. I am trying to leave nothing to chance with this one.:lol:

HEY Awesome build !!!!
Where did you get the new tranny "Xray CD mounts and HB CD" ???

thank u

Exactly Jerry, never hurts to be too careful. You say Ti screws, i've heard that Tony's 12.9's are a little stronger, but the Ti screws will definately be a little lighter.

As for the Xray diff mount and the HB diff, i got them both from amainhobbies.com. Although now i am running an Xray centre diff. Here are the links to what i've got on the truck now:

Diff mount

Centre diff

Now i am running a 48t spur, not the 46t that comes with the diff...

:gasp: what a fricken pain.. I'm sorry sir but like the MAN "Jerry" said above at least you have yet another opportunity to go through your build.. :whistle: Hopefully you'll get it all worked out soon enough.. :yes:

You will like the 50k center diff, what were you running before 30K?? :neutral:

Have a great weekend Sir..

P.S.
I still think you should order up a spar T-bone.. :lol::lol:

Do you mean the centre dogbones Shaun? I've got two sets of those, one stainless steel from RCAlloys, and one hardened steel from Mike :wink: I was running 30k before, it tamed the power down nicely, but im aiming for a little more crazy this time. I was expecting little hiccups here and there, another couple of runs though, and everything should be sorted. I also think that the batteries will gain some performance when i put a couple of charge cycles through them, still on their first at the moment.

That sounds good. Get a pavement run next!

Has anyone had issues in regards to brakes and reverse with their MGM controllers? if not what firmware are you running and what was the setup? Mine are going straight from brake to reverse without actually having a controlled stop. ie when you push the lever forward it will go into reverse instead of brake. And when i have it set to no freewheel it will free wheel anyway

Not dure about that problem, but when i ran my 28025 there were no brakes at all, id press reverse and it would just freewheel to a stop. I'm using the newest firmware. I'll probably have another play around with it when it gets back and see if i can figure out whats going on. Maybe you could try resetting the controller settings back to default, and then changing the settings to what you want? Kind of resetting the controller.

So im having a hard time finding a replacement pin for the cvd. I was going to use a drill bit, but then found out that the shank, the end bit, is not hardened steel. Do you guys think that it will hold up if it is just plain old steel, not hardened steel?

Pins Pins Pins.
 

Send Bill at RCAlloys an email and ask him how much for some spare pins. He makes the dogbones and can sell you a few I am sure. That way you have the exact replacement in case you run into this again donw the road.:intello:

I have seen somewhere a nice little tool to remove and add those pins on. I just can't find where. I din't know if it was in a magazine or in the web. I'll keep looking and send you the info once I find it. I'm sure someone has seen it as well.

Edit: I found it. Here is the article: http://www.rc-car.com/ME2/dirmod.asp...C973108AAB114D.

I call it the pin-pusher. :party: :lol:

Ahh yes, i saw that little walk through, thanks Lutach. But i have already got the pin out, trouble is the pin that i have, (a standard 3x16mm pin out of a dogbone) just slips straight through the cvd :gasp:, i think ill just use a drill bit and see what happens :neutral:

Titanium drill bit ?? :neutral: