Anyone using Mike's v3 Revo diff kit? I have a few questions
 

It seems that once I tighten the case screws down tight, it binds the gears...I have shimmed, taken out the shim, etc...always the same prob...If I back off of the case screws 1/2 turn all is well...wierd

Also, I am confused as to what the large washer, (compression washer?)not sure as to what to call it does. There is also a black washer as well w/the kit... a little thicker than the shim, does that go between the bearings? Maybe I am missing something?

I have mine built so that the smaller diameter, thinner black washer sits between the bearings on the pinion gear, and the thicker one sits outside between the outdrive and the bearings.

Then, the compression washer is place on the outside of the bearing that is on the opposite side of the ring gear of the diff, which forces the assembly further away from the pinion, to reduce binding. I also have the shim included on that same side (opposite of ring gear) between the bearing and diff itself to further space it.

This way, my diffs are relatively free with just one small spot where it feels a bit tight. I figure after the diffs wear in this will clear up.

However, I did find that after removing the small black washer between the bearings on the pinion that I was able to find a point where there would be completely smooth operation, but then the pinion would slide forward and back.

I plan to get some shims to replace this black washer so I can space it better and hopefully find a completely smooth operating point.

Looks like I need to disassemble my diff after reading your post. I also agree w/you that the black washer is a tad too thick and would be better served w/thinner shims.
I n my other diffs, there is a tad bit of movement front to back and I have yet to have a problem. I also found this to be true after removing the thicker black washer and refitting. I would be concerned not using something between the bearings though.
What did you find w/the case...

I forgot to ask how you like them?

Here you guys - This is the draft build instructions...

Ugh! I was like 90% sure that the large washer went between the bearings in the notch in the diff case. I just gave up when it ended up being pretty difficult to get in there (I figured there would be no way it should be that tight if it was supposed to go there).

Looks like I'm disassembling. At least I didn't put the diffs in my truck yet.

Thanks Chris....I am glad that I did only one before I asked! :yes:

Don't feel bad...I will be doing the same thing

I feel worse cause I nearly pointed you in the wrong direction.

No worries!:lol: The imp't part is getting it RIGHT before we install them and ruin them. Now that we know how it goes....:yipi:

Go with the photo's guys - They are from mikes build! :)

Sorry for the delay in getting them out - I was traveling last week.

No worries...as I stated above...better to get it right before we install them.

Thanks again for the directions!:mdr:

Ok...got the front diff assembled..perfect!

My question is this...in the directions it says that I cannot use the extended drivecups for the Traxxas extended arms? Or did I misunderstand. I am hoping to use the extended rear arms w/cvd which are already on the truck

Are you using the cups or 6mm outputs?

I havn't tested them yet but was worried that mikes included cups wouldn't be long enough for the swept back arms. Traxxas sells the longer cups for the extended arms.

I'd therefore suggested if using 6mm outputs and the traxxas longer cups. I've yet to measure up though if this is truely required.

Rgds

The traxxas cvd's dont work that great when using the traxxas extend cups and the swept back arms. I have tried this setup on a stock traxxas diff with the hubs in both the 10mm and 19mm position. Cvds kept pulling out of the cups. If you want to use the swept back arms, I would suggest the Summit plastic shafts or the MIP new CVDs that have a telescoping steel hex drive on them.