My new home made center sliperential
 

Here is my new mount that i'am to build to run a center diff on my revo. What you sea in the pics are not the final result, i have to trim the mount, remove lot of aluminium, shape it to have a better eye looking shape.
I'll mount the Neu motor on the RCM motor mount, with the Teckno RC electri clutch adapter.
I'll put an 1/8 buggy center diff mount just behind my mount to allow the use of a mechanical brake.
I've order an Ofna hyper 8.5 center Spyder diff on Ebay today, but the problem will be for the brake, i'll just brake the front wheel, but i'll use 100000 oil in the center diff, so when i'll apply the brake, the rear will brake a little bit.
Here's the basic pics:
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5104/sliperential001vl5.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/8803/sliperential002po7.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/8544/sliperential004tn2.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>

Pretty cool. Man, that's a lot of work! I know... I've been there. :yes:

But you are not done yet, so back to work :whip:

:na:

Yes! tomorow i'll cut, shape and trime the mount with my trusty press-drill, saw and Dremel, but i must wait for my Ofna Spyder differential to completed the work!

And this mount is a bit on the heavy side, because i've use 9.5mm thick aluminium, so i'll put it on a milling machine again to shave some weight and thin it down to about 5mm.

Hmmm... if you have a mill, why did you drill and cut it like that? Looks like lots of drill holes and then cut with dremel, etc. ?

How big are the bearings for the shafts?

No, i don't have mill, i must go on a machine shop to do the job, and it cost a lot of $$.
Just to make the hole3 for the 4 bearing, it cost me $96.00:surprised:

The bearing for the top sliper shaft is 5x11 and those for the diff are 8x16.

Jesus, 96 bucks! I am lucky to have a local machinist that helps me out with small stuff. The last few things he did were free! I have him do a fair amount of stuff on my various gun projects, plus he is laid back and only really works cause he would get bored.

Nice looking work David. I am planning something similar for the revo I just built. It has the hybrid diffs I got from you, and will have a center diff with the integrated slipper, as soon as Mike starts selling them! I will have to make some custom bulkheads, but will most likely have the machinist make the whole deal. I will just design it, not very difficult!

I was about to ask you how you made those bearing holes.. :)

Mike can make you custom work as well; (including bearingholes)

Hey Serum, in another post, you speak about the motor snap and lengt of pinion..... Did you speak about the Tekno electri clutch?????
Because i'am to decide if i'll use it or a standard MOD1 pinion for my revo, and the lenght of the Tekno electri clutch is my only fear. On 4 or 5s li-po, i'am not sure if this thing will put to much stress on the motor shaft. I've a Neu 1515 and i don't want to snap a shaft on a $300 buck motor.

I think he was referring to the smaller 1/8" shaft. It would take quite a bit of force to snap a 5mm shaft! If shaft snap is still a concern, how about adding an extension on the end of the shaft and supporting it (via bearing) on the far end?

Anyway, nice work on the 9.5mm Al! Even if the final product isn't as pretty as a machined peice, full kudos are earned simply because a pre-made part wasn't used.

Yep! i was.. Thanks Brian.

OK thank you guys!! So i'll use the elekti-clutch, like that i'll can install the center diff in a more conservative position.
And today i've work on the piece of aluminium, and you'll be surprise by the final result:party:
Sure it'll not as good as a machined piece but for an hand made, it'll be not to bad:intello:

So, made any progress on this? I am anxious to see how it turns out.

BTW, a 5/8" drill bit is 15.88 mm. That is what I used for my bearing holes, and then just carefully opened them up for a snug fit with a sanding drum on my dremel. For $96 you could have bought a cheap drill press and some drill bits, then you can make all the holes you want:lol:

Yep, I used a 5/8th drill bit for my motor mount bearings holes as well, but before I got a drill press. Drill press makes things a lot easier.

Don't make me remember this OK:whistle::gasp:

:lol:

I have a drillpress my dad gave me about 20 years ago and it was probably 20 years old then lol !!! I would never be without it !!!! Best tool to have . It's suprising how often you use it. I would personally buy a good used one even if it's old over a brand new chinese one anyday. The older ones are built like tanks !
Jerry

Exactly why i don't take my press drill, because i've one:intello:
My press drill is so bad, when i put an 1/2" drill bit on it, i obtain an 5/8" hole.
This press drill whoble like any other can do:rofl:
So i prefere to pay to have precise hole than losing my time with this f... press drill:whistle:

I've recieve my spur gear adaptor yesterday from the machine shop, i'll try to post some pics today.

OK take a look where my project is for now!
I'am realy satisfy to the result.
Here you can see the spur gear adaptor with the stock revo tranny output shaft. You can see the spline on the shaft, and it's the allen screw on the adaptor who'll lock it into the adaptor. But the hole in the adaptor and the diameter of the spline part on the shaft is at "zero", so it's taper. I'll have to heat the adaptor to slip the shaft into it.
The only thing i'am not sure is if i'll lock the allen screw a groove part of the spline, or if i'll make a flat spot on the top of the spline and lock it on this flat spot;
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/1197/revotranny001dn6.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>

Here is a shoot with the mechanical brake that i'am to install on it.
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/8720/revotranny003dj8.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6462/revotranny004cm4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>

Looks very, very nice. good work!

Excellant work !!!

Very interesting David, I thought that you were going to use a center diff? I see why you used the revo output shaft, to keep the stock center driveshaft length!

Also like the use of a bulkhead to do the mech brakes. Lokks good, can't wait to see it finished!

BEEFY!! I like. Looks really good. You should be able to make a lexan gear cover for the center gears real easy.

Very good idea lonewolfe, i've don't think to this:yes:

My first idea was to use a center diff, but it's quasi imposible to install a rear mechanical brake, the motor take all the space. And i don't want to use the controller to brake.
So i decide to make an adaptor and having an all time 4wd.

I hate to bust balls here but someone has to say it, locking a revo tranny in second would have accomplished the same thing and been much simpler, that being said, its nice work and a great accomplishment, there are center diffs for revo trannys as well that would allow front and rear brakes.........

Except this looks to be about 100x stronger, and looks WAY cooler ;).


J.

absolutely agreed

Looks Great! Any reason why everything is deanodized except the optional motor mount brace?

Because i don't having time to deanodized the motor mount brace yet:lol:
I realy don't like the stock blue anodizing!

Speaking for myself I find that the revo center diff is worthless when running a powerful BL motor. Too much power gets wasted due to excessive power going to the front wheels spinning instead of to the ground.

I need to pick up a 1/8 diff to play with to see if I can get the diff action under control. After seeing David's setup I may try something similar but fitted with the center diff.

Like this?
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v132/4x4pede/Revo/ (lincpimp is the current owner)

David, yours is coming along nicely! My only criticism is that you call it a "sliperential", yet I see no center diff :whip: :angel:. Any plans for installing one?

That is a nice compact setup and it looks to shift the weight off the rear end... hmm gears turning now. Is there a noticeable difference in how the CD acts when the motor is mounted center chassis as opposed to the stock location?

I don't want to jack this thread so MetalMan if you could pm me I'd like to pick your brain a bit if possible?

The only problem that i can see for now on my system is the gear mesh between the 22T pinion on the sliiper shaft and the spur gear on my spur adaptor.
The mesh seam to be a liitle slack, but not sure.
If i hold the spur and i try to move the 22T pinion, i can move the pinion back and forth a little bit, but for sure, it's little more than if i was adjust the mesh with a piece of paper.
And you know, i can't re-adjust them:whistle:
To re-adjust them i have to make another complet mount........................

Anyway, i'll try it like that and if it's too slack, probaly i'll break the spur or the pinion.

You could try a 23T?

Hey david, do you think a 23t pinion would be too tight? Might fit and mesh nicely?

A 22T is 24mm diameter, and the 23T should be 25mm.....Hummmmmm!!! it's a full 0.5 mm all around, so i think that it'll be to tight, but if somebody have a 23T for me, i'am ready to try it.
Because i don't want to order just a pinion from Mike, it'll cost $25.00 just for shipping:lol::gasp:

I've try the gear mesh with a Kyosho 46T plastic spur and it was not to bad, but with the steel one, the mesh seam to be a litle on the loose side.
Maybe it's the theet shape of the steel one that's not the same.

It may be ok, I usually set my steel to steel gears slightly looser than stell to plastic. They seem to run smoother with a bit more slack, and are plenty strong.

That's what i think, so i'll be try it.
But your idea of a 23T is not bad, i'll try to find a 23T just to test the mesh!

Hope it works well, let us know!

I was building 1/8 scale revo center diffs before traxxas came out with their own. They were based on a thunder tiger ttr s3 buggy diffs and they worked awesome. I still have some parts and blue prints if anyone is interested. You can pm me for pictures.