E-maxx in the sand
 

Well I got my new chassis put on and my new drive shafts, but of course it didnt take long before it broke again. At least I got about 4 batt. packs threw it this time and got to enjoy it a little. I blew out the front Diffs on the 2nd batt. pack in the sand. I drove it at night so know pics with full 4 wheel drive. It flew across the sand like it was nothing. It was way faster then when it was stock on the street. The truck put out a roost of sand over 20 feet atleast. It was a site to see. I drove it on the street on the next batt. pack and noticed only the back tires where turning. My truck doesnt do wheelies any more since the new chassis and stuff. Intstead it just roasts the tires. I think I need to raise my susp. up some, anyone have any ideas? I rather it do wheelies then skid out, there is no traction. The next day I took it on the sand for some 2 wheel drive action. 1st batt. pack blew the rear diffs in the sand.

more sand

Top of truck

:eek: That looks like a lot of fun. I wish I had a place like that to bash around.:M:

Definately cool place to run - awesome...:D

That looks SWEEEET! I knew it was only a matter of time before the stock diffs gave the ghost. You have silly power going through that thing! For wheelies, stiffen the rear springs and raise the ride height. I doubt you will get wheelies with the paddles, though. Awesome pictures! Looks like a ton of fun!

It was fun while it lasted. It does do wheelies in the sand. Actully it does them like crazy. I think its because the paddles give me so much traction. The sprigs are pretty stiff. I have a dual rate spring (7/3lbs) and an 8lbs on each wheel. I figured, I would have to raise the ride height because of the g-maxx chassis. In the sand it doesnt turn very good. The front end seems like its glideing across. I have to slow down to nothing to be able to turn.

I meant no wheelie on pavement with the paddles. The paddle tires aren't mean't for turning! they are meant to throw a roost (looks like you have that part mastered!).

What diffs were you using? Where they stock?

Yes they where stock. Once I put the titanium drive shafts on, the stock diffs just couldn't take the power rc-monster.com gave me! I took apart 1 of the diffs and the cup was full of chunks of metal. Hopefully the upgraded allum. diffs will hold up.

Awwww... the sand :cool:

Cool truck! Most people go with the low cg chassis to keep all 4 on the floor. If you really want to set-up for wheelies try the standard length rear (longer wheelbase works against it) also try running a hump pack to the rear of the chassis (4 over 5) the straps are designed to go over 2 levels of cells (make sure to lace the strap through the chassis slot for a tight fit) ... and as said before... raise your suspension.

I little bit more mojo doesn't hurt - good luck with the diffs!

I do want the front end to stay on the ground. The problem I am haveing was mainly with traction. With the stock chassis the tires gripped and pulled the front end up. I will mess with different shock heights for the right medium. The batt. were set up for the stock chassis and I shoe goo'ed the heck out of them. I was to excited to run the truck once I put it together, I just strapped them in reel quick. I did notice that the batt. hits the stearing servo on one side.

Ahhh - i remember looking at my diffs and seeing the blistered metal pieces - imagine the amount of power you would need to do that to a full size truck??? - you wanna figure out a solution to that servo battery issue - dont wanna kill a cell - also - what kind of run time do you get while bashing with 18 cells????

Nice rims. I like those.

Not sure on the exact time I keep forgeting to time them. It seems like a prety good amount of time. As for the servo mabeyI can just put some washers in it. Then the servo arm will be at an angle. Ill just have to try it. I found the rims on ebay. Cheapy plastic but they look nice. I think I paid like $20-25 for all four.

Raising the servo should fix your clearance problem. What do you use for a servo saver?

not sure what a servo saver is

Thats the plastic piece that is on your steering servo.

http://www.kimbrough-products.com/group2.jpg

servo saver
 

a servo saver is a link between your servo and your steering linkage - ( usually plastic ) the servo saver takes all the hard impacts and ( with internal spring type movement ) keeps the servo from stripping its internal gears - hard to describe what it does in words - but you definately need to have one or you will definately do in your servo - metal gear or not -

Did you make that esc mount yourself? I know that I have seen something similar to that a while ago but cant seem to find them anymore.

My friend made it for me. It's shaped like an L bracket. He drilled the holes to bolt on where the 2nd motor was. I just put some velcro on the bottom. It works perfect, and looks prety good to.

The spacer is a good idea. We use to include spacers but discovered that most people preferred to use the rubber grommets that come with aftermarket servos. If you have these they would take care of it.

It looks like you could also shift the packs to the back cell spot on the chassis and avoid the servo (run the strap through the slot 2 spots back from the front for a tight fit)

Cool thanx. Once I get my diffs from ebay I can drive it more than a day without something breaking.

That looks like a pretty good deal. I am waiting to see if any UE diffs show up on ebay. If not then I will piece together my own set.

I bought a used e-maxx with a bunch of UE drivetrain parts in it. It was a great deal! I saved several hundred and the UE parts had been only run for two months with the stock titan motors. It's in great shape!

MMMM - I take it from your post that you may sell?

No, I'm just saying how you can save money by buying it used.

Cool.

Mike, do I need to buy anything else for these diffs ? Any gears or anything? What else do I need to buy so my truck stops breaking? I need to show off my truck but I can't because it keeps breaking. I need to show those nitro's what a flashlight runner can do!!!! Make me a list and I'll check it twice. lol. What do I need to buy from you? Check out my new shock towers I think they will go nice with my carbon fiber chassis. Thank you Mike and www.rc-monster.com for making my truck PERFECT.

Looks like those diffs are complete.

Those diffs should work just fine. Make sure you put them in correctly (I have put them in so they both turn opposite directions a couple times!). next thing your truck may need is some better shocks. Yours look like the stock shocks, which work OK, but the caps have a tendency to blow off when landing jumps. Aluminum steering blocks would be a nice addition, especially in the sand. The Integy type II have larger bearings. The sand will eat up your bearings, so the larger bearings may last a bit longer. I am not sure what you have for a steering servo or servo saver, but a nice metal gear, high torque servo and the Pro-line servo saver are also worthy additions. Other than taht, your truck is pretty tight! Definately one of the nicer ones out there, and most likely one of the fastest!

Good shocks are a must. I got some silver Integy MSR5 and love them. They go great with the gmaxx chassis and suspension.

They should be complete but I meen as far as making them stronger so they dont die on me.

I agree with Mike and Netman. When I had my stock shocks I blew at least 3-4 shocks on each outing. At first I thought I was running too thick on an oil (noobie) but then I was told that the stockies were crap. I recommend the proline powerstrokes if you want to spend that kind of money. I bought mine on ebay (RCBOYZ) for 138 shipped.

Could you have a ESC mount similar to yours made for me?:cool:

Ryan,
As long as the diffs are shimmed correctly, they are very tough. The gears should spin freely, but there should not be side to side play on the outdrives. You want to make sure the backlash is minimal (minimal "slack" ).

Can you translate that into english for me? The diffs came allready put together. Not sure what is front and rear. I dont know how to check to make sure they are "shimmed correctly"

You want to make sure there is not a lot of play in the gears. If they are built, run them until they drop. If you blow a diff, get new gears and rebuild them. Basically, when you build the diffs, you want them to turn freely, but not have excessive play (outdrives should not move side to side)