MAX Continuous Current on MMM?
 

Anybody know? I'm wondering because I'd like to run one with a Neu 1521 1.5d with pulls a max of 110a. It will be in a fairly light truck ~10lb rtr. On 6s.

Reports had it for 200A and 6s...

WOWSERS!! :lol:

Yeah, 4,440 watts or almost 6HP is nothing to scoff at.

I just hope they someday make a 12s version rated at about 150A - better yet, just slap car software on their HV-110 and call it the MMM-HV. 7,104w = 9.5HP.

When I calculate it, it says only 2442 watts. I need more power than that. Suggestions?

So from the rumored specs, it seems it will be closes performing to the 22418 MGM controller:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...22418CP&cat=21

It supports up to 6 cells lipo, and 224 amps continuous, and 260A burst.

Is this right?

What if i ran a 1527 1.5d? What's the max current on that? I can't find it.

You need more than 2442 watts??? Are you gearing really tall for high speed runs or just like replacing drivetrain parts?

Both. I SHOULD not be breaking too much... Muggy/LST diffs, center diff with steel spur, custom made 8mm CVD's.... I think you get the idea. I will be gearing high occasionally but fur the most part, it'll be set for about 45 mph.

legobrains: Knowing how Castle underrates their ESCs, I would expect at least 50% headroom for bursts. So, that 200A continuous would be something like 300A bursts. Just speculation here. But TBH, currents that high are inefficient and if very high power is needed, would be better off going with a high voltage and lower current setup.

BL_RV0: max current rating is a fuzzy thing to calculate. Not many setups will pull the max current all the time. Cars are peaky, so there are going to be high current bursts that level out for most of the run. But anyway, you can guesstimate the max current. Let's say a motor is rated for kv=2000, power=3000w, and max rpm of 60k. To get 60k rpm, you need 30v. To get 3000w at 30v, you need 100A. But then, you could go lower on the voltage and up on gearing to pull more current to get that same 3000w. rpms would be lower though as well. See how it gets kinda fuzzy? And then, the max power rating is usually for a relatively short duration. 3000w is a LOT of power for a small motor!

IMO, normally a 1515 should be fine for that setup, a 1521 would be overkill, and 1527 just plain silly. But since you want faster speeds over 45mph, the 1521 as a baseline would be fine.

In an emaxx a 1521 1.5D will push you over 70+ mph on 8S. ;)

Is there a way that I can get more current= more power without exceeding the ratings of the MMM?

That's 8s though. I would not like to burn a new MMM!! If they're anything like they're little brother, 8s should be just fine. I have a feeling I'm going to see a lot of "MMM Overvoltage Testing" threads. Or so I hope. :tongue:

How about this setup?

Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538463
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 50
Pinion Tooth Count: 10
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 1900
Tire Diameter (inches): 6.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 110
Motor coil Ω: 0.005
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 5 : 1
Total Ratio: 14.23077 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 20.42 inches (518.68 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 41135 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 55.9 mph (89.79 km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.52 mph/V (4.04 kmh/V)
Estimated Adjusted Speed: 52 mph (83 km/h) - 8% loss
Effective KV Value: 1852.93
Motor Torque: 0.41 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 5.8 ft-lbs
Final Power: 2442 watts (3.3 HP)

Ok. I think I got my setup figured out.
Motor: Neu 1521 1.5d
ESC: MMM
Batteries: 2x 3s 4500mAh 30c FlightPower
Center Diff: HB Lightning
Diffs: E-maxx 3905 (for now)
Gearing: 10/50
Tires: mashers, mulchers, something 40 series
Wheels: something 40 series and 23mm
Axles: center dogbones, ft/rr: stock 3905
Chassis: FLM

What do you all think of that?

Hey, jzemaxx, i would like to see some pics of the beast:diablo: that u speak of.

Here you go.......its beside an 8XL

http://forcedinductions.com/images/f.../IMAGE_025.jpg

One more....

http://forcedinductions.com/images/f...C/IMG_1915.jpg

With the truck strapped and lowered fastest GPS and radar pass was 74.1 mph. Tried a few more times, but the truck kept going airborne....so that is all for now. The 1521 still has ALOT more left in it......its barely breaking 110 temps. All runs were done on 8S. I can go 10S, but it was useless as the truck just hazes the tires hard around 60mph when you roll into the last 1/4 of the throttle.

Have you tried mounting a wing to the front to keep the nose down? From the front lifting and the tire hazing at high speeds, sounds like you just need more traction...

I ziptied a 1 1/16" heavy impact socket on the front and it helped some, but I'm going to try some heavier weight next time. I haven't tried a wing yet, but I am working on trying to come up with one. Problem is drag will go up exponentially then, but I guess I will just more up to higher voltage to compensate.

How about just using a Proline wing in the front on some custom mount? But yeah, drag will go up.

The right body, body scissors, a knife, and a heat gun and you could rig up some good down force. I did this with my stock pede body and eliminated a lot of lift. You also want to be concerned about the rear at the same time because rear lift can cause the front to get squirrely and lift as well. If you are using a truck body, simply cutting out the tailgate section does wonders. Sometimes it just takes experimenting with different things.

You are right....my high speed XTM BL MT has the rear cut out and handles ALOT better at higher speeds now. Also a longer wheelbase does wonders. I can run 10S on the XTM truck and it will NOT lift off....just hazes the tires. Awesome BL truck.....I don't think my emaxx will ever be to the level of it, but I'm working on it.

http://forcedinductions.com/images/f...pics%20001.jpg

jz, what do u use for brakes on that emaxx? The HV110 doesn't have brakes, does it?

No brakes per say like conventional ESC's but it does have a brake. I used castle link to put the brakes on 10% with zero delay and I just use them when needed. Very nice mild braking. When I don't want it to brake I just keep my finger barely on the trigger to de-activate the braking. Only with castle link you can change it to 10%. Manual programming only offers, no brake, 50% brake or 100% brake. 50% brake sends the truck flipping end over end....lol

Got pics by chance of your setup?

No, the pede is sold now. I lost interest in it and never got any pics with the body on after I changed it.

Trimming down the front end area, down the sides, and around the wheel wells was the start. For the heat gun part you heat up the area about 1/2 inch shy of the base of the windshield and cut down the length, then using the heat gun (or hairdryer) and a block of wood or something similar, mold the body up to allow air to flow out.

Anyway, I think trimming the sides and front down some front and cutting the rear tailgate out yielded the most improvement.

I will also say that on the MM (which should be the same for the MMM) adjusting the punch control and throttle curve did a lot to help keep the front end from lifting as well.

Jze.. what kind of amps are you pulling with that 1527....?

Haven't ran the 1527 yet, so have no idea.