8s Savage Setup (Cant Choose An ESC)
 

I made up my mind to buy two 4s lipo packs to make a total of 8s lipo so that it would make me happy with its overall preformance and the outrunner happy because its running on voltage it was intended to use. I will be using a 53/30 stator outrunner in somewhat of a DD setup. I found that a few people on here use the 110HV ESC for planes in their HV setups and it looks like a qualified ESC to me. I also want to know will the MMM be able to handle 8s lipo with the internal bec disabled? If so then I already have my mind made up.:yes: Im looking to stay under $200 if that is all possible?

i don't think anybody can answer the mmm question yet. i believe you can get a jazz controller to do what you want and still have reverse, but wait for others to respond first.

go through this thread



http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774

AZJC, Darn I thought castle would miss the over voltage again on yet another awsome ESC... Im going to be doing alot of speed passes and bashing so maybe 8s isnt for me. 6s is the lowest I will go and if thats the case then Im for sure getting the MMM.

hmm this will probably sound dum.. but here is a thought.....

Get 2 controllers that are ok on 4s..( STOP DONT CALL ME STUPID! lol)
and run Y's off the motor so it can take input from both esc..
since both escs are running off the same emf pulse they will stay syncronized. allowing you to run 8s succesfully.

First time I've ever heard that.

Lol, it seems like it will work in theory.. one signal emf.. 2 of the same esc, same switching rate... should work

Possibly. Ask:
BrianG
Lutach
or
GriffinRU

but wouldn't this be just as or cost the same as a controller that can handle 8s..

Exactly what I was thinking...

Probably so, but I just want to know if it would work. I will stack 2 of my controllers I have now that are rated much higher already.....hehe

jzemaxx, if you parallel two esc's (possible?) each running 4S, you have a system with a total of 4S. You can't put them in series to run 8S as the voltage would kill the components that make it a 4S controller in the first place. If you try to put 8S into a motor, somewhere along the line components are dealing with 8S voltage.

you'd be better off with a single 6S MMM.

Exactly right.

I run a savage with mech brakes on 8s with a great planes 60amp hv esc and it works fine. Has a bit of a soft start, but is not difficult to drive around. If you plan to use motor brakes and reverse the mmm on 6s will be your best bet.

thats not right, if one esc is putting out 14.8v and the other is putting 14.8, wouldnt the motor see 29.6?

They are not in series.

If the ESCs are parallel, then DrKnow is making sense. The motor wires would be parallel to one another, so I would imagine it would still put out 4s power, but split the current load between the two ESCs and batteries.

I see what you're thinking though, but I'm not positive that it works that way (two ESCs outputs equals double the voltage).

Someone else will probably have a better answer/explanation.

here's an explination. Let's say you have 2 12 volt car batteries. You are going to light a lightbulb and you want it to be lit with 24 volts. You also have 2 switches that are rated for 12 volts and will not handle 24volts even without a load. You take the first swith and put it on one side of the light bulb and the second switch on the second side. You run the first side to the positive of battery number one, and the second side to the negative of bettery number two. To complete the circuit you would need to connect the negative of battery number on to the positive of battery number two (creating 24volts). The moment you close the switches there are 24 volts going through the circuit and the switches fry.

Same scenario but instead of connecting the batteries in series, you connect one switch to the positive side of battery number one, and the second side to the positive side of battery number two. To complete the circuit you now connect both of the negative sides of the batteries togeather. You close the switches and the bulb does not light. Reason is, there is no potential between 12v+ and 12v+.

Now lets get real technical, you could put the two batteries in series, but now you are going to run one side of the lightbulb to the connector between the two batteries. The other side of the lightbulb is then "Y"d and a 12v switch put on either leg. Leg number one goes to the positive side of battery number one, and leg number two goes to the negative of battery number two (remember the positive of batt 2 is going to the negative of batt 1, and that is going to one side of the light bulb). If you close one switch you have 12v lighting the bulb. If you close the other you again have 12v lighting the bulb (although it is the opposite polarity). Everything works fine, but the bulb is dim (12v), so you close both switches and BANG you have created a dead short between the batteries.

If I'm missing something here I'm all ears. I could draw this out but I didn't want to risk offending anyone.