Hyperion 0610i Charger power supply
 

i was just wondering if this would work as a power supply for a Hyperion 0610i Charger to run at full capacity?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25-AM...QQcmdZViewItem

thanks

That will be plenty to run it at full capacity. I use a 25a Pro-Peak PS to run mine and its plenty - in normal charging work, the PS will run both the Hyperion and my Ice and let me charge a pr of batts for my Emaxx.

My hyperion manual has a warning in it saying not to use a battery charger as a power supply...

Just buy this fpr $20 and follow brian's mod - It took me 15 mins to convert mine...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817152029

I use an ofna 18amp power supply. It can run 2 of the 5i hyperion chargers and the Ice at the same time. It was 90 bucks, but I can highly recommend it. Plus it is adjustable, unlike my mrc power suppply that came with the 989. That supply puts out over 15v and will not work anything other than the 989.

Wow, I didn't see that was a charger! Don't run that, the DC chargers I've used warn you not to use a battery charger for a power supply.

Glad sammus was paying attention. The Pro-peak power supply was about $60.

Yeah, those car battery chargers are not clean DC. They do away with the capacitor filtering so you have pulsed DC. Also, they are unregulated. Since they have to be able to output ~14v at the rated current, the voltage output at lower currents can be quite a bit higher.

You probably could use one provided you add capacitor filtration and a linear regulator. Building a high current regulator can take some work though to get currents up to ~20A. Just easier IMO to get a PS that is already filtered and regulated for the price...

thanks for all the responses i remember reading that a guy used a motorcycle battery charger for his power supply

now i know not to
thanks

sounds like the same PS I have

Good call on not using a battery charger

I think the cheapest route is to use a pc power supply, if you do not mind a bit of wiring it is the cheapest ...... It will take a bit of looking to find the high current 12 volt lead. But maybe the documnets are better now than when I setup mine


This looks like it may work

But I would be temped to head to frys and pick up somthing I can return ...

ok a little more

here is a link with the specs

18 amps

17/18A is a little on the low side. You want about 25% more current capability than you will be running for two reasons: 1) heats less 2) the output voltage won't drop as much and will stay within the 11-15v range of most chargers.

The 0610 is a 250w charger IIRC. To use it to full capacity, it would require:

The "Min A" column includes an 80% charger efficiency factor.

I have an older astron 12 amp power supply I will give you if your interested, just pay for the shipping. "it's heavy so probably around 15-20 bucks " I would send you back any money if shipping is cheaper.
Works perfect , just dont need it anymore since I have a 100 amp supply now. Jerry

ok, this is something ive been thinking about too... ive got 3 modded pc supplies (after my 12A one blew up 4 times, running 8A...GRRR free replacements wore out after that :D

anyways, ive got an antec earthwatts 500A one, very good psu, and holds the voltage 100x better than my other ones. (with the same setup) anyway, its got 2 12v rails, rated for 19A and 17A. (one for CPU, and the other for everyting else i assume) ive pulled it apart and when a heavy load (20A of charging power, much over the rated i know, for a short (20 seconds) i noticed that it dropped down to 11.98 (understandable) BUT, the other unloaded rail also dropped to 12.24 or similar... which means they are somehow connected (use only 1 transformer or something, i have no idea)

but the question i want to ask is, what would happen if i joined the 2 rails together into 1 output, and had a ground. then i would have a 30A supply. which would be great for the 250w charger. my other option is to buy 2 of the other chargers in that range (forgot the name) and use 1 on each rail...


any suggestions/concerns (didnt seem like a great idea until i had some opinons, not keen to blow up a $90 supply...
thanks, and sorry if its off topic!

I run a 450W psu but its only rated to 16A on the 12v rail... and it only outputs like 11.8 anway. certainly not enough for my 360W duo's max capacity :) I was charging 2x 3s packs at 4A the other day and the input voltage dropped down to 10, still worked, but is a little dodgy.

The duo accepts up to 28V input though so if yours can accept a higher voltage too it might be cheaper to get a higher voltage power supply, then it doesnt need to handle such extreme current

my real question is, can i merge the 2 12v rails? would it even be possible to get 2 power supplies the same and do it like that (connect them in parrallel?)

If you try to merge the rails, be careful. I had a dual 12v supply and heatsink got quite hot quickly. Each rail would have to have EXACTLY the same voltage and even then I dunno.

Some PS units have a trimmer pot located somewhere on the PCB. You can use this to tweak up the voltage a little. I have one I was able to get to ~13v unloaded. Not only does this help keep the voltage above 12v when loaded a little, but the higher voltage requires less current at the same time. Be careful though, if you do see a pot, make SMALL changes while watching the voltage. If it doesn't change, put that pot back to the original position because it's being used for something else.

If the trimmer pot is not there, you can sometimes force a little better regulation by adding (or increasing) the preload on the 5v and/or 3.3v rail.

It sucks that all PSUs are not built the same because what works for one doesn't work for the other...

well i was brutal before putting it together (its still sitting on my table 1/2 finished) and ran it hard with both rails loaded as much as my 4 chargers could... it got warm after 5 mintues but i wouldnt call it hot. just warm to touch (dont have a temp thingy)

ill have a look for that pot... this could help heaps. are there any downsides to turning this up or is it just there so they can accureately tune it at the factory to make sure even though the components may differ in quality it still outputs correct voltage?

anyone with electrical knowledge please help!!

As far as I know, it's just there to tweak the rails to be more in line with PC voltage specs. Turning it up a volt or so should cause any issues as long as it doesn't go up higher than that. Generally, I'd shoot for no more than 13.5v just to be safe. Of course, the 5 and 3.3v rails will go up as well, but you're not using it for a PC anymore...

Also BE CAREFUL when you stick something in there to adjust the pot while the PS is running. There are dangerous DC voltage levels in there and can cause severe shock!!

If at all possible, use a well insulated screwdriver to adjust it. Better yet, use a TV tuning screwdriver (all plastic) if you can find one.

here are some pics of the underside of the board. there are no pots that i can see, are there different types which look completely different to those commonly seen? thanks

see how closely the 2 rails are divided, do you think that there would be any way without blowing it up to try it?
o yeah i forgot... the 2 smaller blobs near the side, in the middle of photo 1 are the 12v rails... the other HUGE blob is the common rail. hope that makes sense!

yeah i was planning to turn it off use an insulated screw driver (wait till the voltage hasdrained from the caps of course) then adjust it a 1/16 of a turn or something then turn it on and re measure. im not keen on touching it while its connected to 240v!!
btw, where would the pots be??

my power supply
 

well i decided to try my luck again on fleabay i ended up with a radio shack 25 amp 13.6v power supply anyone have any feeback on my purchase from personal experience knowing that it is from radio shack.
oh to keep it in perspective it was 70 bucks shipped and it looks brand new

this is going to be enough power for my hyperion 0610i charger correct?
there is no other spec i should have looked at just amps and volts, yes
thanks

Well I would have just got a good pc powersupply from Newegg for $40 shipped and performed Brian's mod.

It was very easy and I'm very happy with the results.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341012

its my understanding that's not enough amperage for a Hyperion 0610i i had looked that though i also wanted a clean appearance

I use this with mine:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/158303.asp

no issues on power delivery, dual output and it looks decent.

my club doesnt allow hackjobs (found out after making it look great) so i went and got the $39 from hobby city... paid on wednesday, and its in the country as we speak... pretty darn good service and FAST shipping for a low price....

its only a 16A but at 14v which is better than on 12v like my modded one.... and if it blows up, they assure me, if it wasnt overloaded (got a wattmeter to find out) i get a free replacement :)

sounds like decent insurance, and its 1/2 the price of a similar unit to dickyT's with only 12A. blew 3 of these (all replaced for free) running an 8A charger off it.... must have been quite inefficient!!

anyhow, ill only be charging 4s a123 @ 10A max, so this will be enough for that. (or the i charger 106B which is more efficient, cheaper and better for customer service!(and highly accurate balancing as each one is supposedly tuned from the factory)




O AND BTW: DONT CONNECT 2 RAILS ON THE PSU LIKE I DID, THEN TOUCH THE HEATSINK (usually does nothing, and is grounded)... you end up with a freaking big fright and a HUGE SHOCK... i refuse to touch that one again LOL...24V @ 42A... lol.

maybe i'm confused here? Mine is 20 amp not 12.

Well, you can try paralleling the two rails and watch temps. It might run fine, it might not. Also, if possible, get a voltage reading under load when seperate and then again while paralleled. It should dip less when paralleled. If not, then you aren't gaining anything.

The pots (if present) could be anywhere on the component side. They are typically small and may have a bit of goop on them to prevent them from "drifting".

@e-rev project: 25A @ 13.8v is 345w. Accounting for charger efficiency, that leaves you with around 276w for the batteries. If you can tweak up the voltage a tad to something like 14.5v, it would take less current.

well, the only reason i wanted to parallel, is to have only 1 output. i zipped myself before i had any time to do testing... ive given up, it really really hurt.

BUT. can i connect 2 seperate powersupplies (the ones from hobby city) in parallel or will that cause issues too?
thanks,
ryan (if i could do that, it would be more than enough current needed, for $80)

IIRC that supply is made by Samlex for RS and has an excellent rep as a PS for rc use. The way Hyp specs PS for the 0606i is 350watts at 15v. Specs you quoted is equiv 340watts. Gotta believe you'll be able to do 95% of everything you want to with that one. Thats the one I wanted when I was looking for mine, but took a new 20a PS by ProPeak in a trade and so far, its been all I've needed.

considering all you need power wise from your charger to charge a 5000 6s lipo is 111 watts you should be fine, you could add 21 more watts for efficiency

ok got power supply and charger
 

question about charging with the hyperion 0610i
1st do most people use the auto charge i charged my 7s gp3300s on automatic and when it was done they would burn the skin.
2nd is there a way to tell how much MAH is in a batt without going through the charge. just to check?

other than that this charger is sick compared to my old gws mc2002 :lol:
thanks for the ps confirmation it seems pretty good so far
just waiting on my 5s1p zippy H before i test it on lipos hurray i made the leap
peace

If the NiMH cells are too hot after charge, reduce the delta peak value. It is most likely too high in auto mode. Change over to manual mode and set the peak value to something like 5mv/cell as a start. The cells should be warm, but not hot at the end. Excessive heat is not good for NiMHs.

BTW: whatever mAh you put in once the cells start getting hot is going to heat, not the charge. So, if your GP3300 cells take 3100mAh, and get really hot at the end of say 3500mAh, you aren't actually putting in the full 3500, more like 3200-3300.

Since batteries do not have a linear discharge curve where the voltage linearly follows the charge level, you cannot tell from voltage alone. You could get a very rough idea by just the voltage, but that's it.

thanks for the fast response seriously less than five minutes ok i can change the delta peak value

so when i get lipos should i stay away from the automatic charge to avoid the heat?

Lipos are different and should never get hot during charge. They use a whole different charging profile.

BrianG - Off topic but I just noticed your new avatar. Where has it been this whole time! maybe now people will stop suggesting fans to you :P

I run 7cell pacs too with same charger - set of 4000 and a newer set of 4400 Maxamps pacs. I do not use auto - I charge mine at 5amps using 3 -5mv/c peak. Mine are getting to 125-135F when they peak - they are warm, but I can still handle them.

If you get NiMhs hot enough that you can't hold them, they are too hot like BrianG said. You are damaging them with that kind of temp - basically reducing life expectancy. I monitor mine with temp gun, especially toward the end, don't hesitate to pull them off if they are getting too hot. Better a little short on capacity than sacrifice 100's of cycles batt life wise.

Instead of monitoring them with a temp gun you could get the probe that plugs into the hyperion.. that way you dont have to stand there to monitor them, it will cutoff itself if it gets too hot.

I just snapped the pic when I took my MMM apart. I know, it was a long time coming!

I just got mine and I'm hoping it does not have the horrible lag that the temp probe for the Ice charger has. The hyperion probe should have a better thermal "connection" to a batt and that should help minimize the time lag between real temp and tem the probe indicates. That time lag with the Ice charger would let you overheatl a batt unless you adjusted the limiting probe based temp down by 20 or more degrees. Hope this one is better.