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-   -   BK Controller set up problem (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12217)

evader 05.19.2008 10:06 PM

BK Controller set up problem
 
I've got a brushless revo but I'm having trouble programming the BK controller that came with it. I've followed the steps that I found here at rc-monster but I still can't seem to get it to work properly.

I've done the set up for it step-by-step but when I try to drive it it still kinda just jumps and sputters (does that make sense?) ..it won't go full throttle.

Anyone have any suggestions?

evader 05.19.2008 11:07 PM

ok, well I just noticed the red programming bridge has come unsoldered. Can I just solder it back on?

lutach 05.20.2008 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 174741)
ok, well I just noticed the red programming bridge has come unsoldered. Can I just solder it back on?

Yes. I had to do it on a few of my BKs.

evader 05.20.2008 06:30 AM

I'm still getting that stuttering thing happening when I give it full throttle. I've re-programmed it several times now but it keeps doing it.

Anyone have any ideas as to what I can do to fix it. I've had this truck now for about a month and I would really like to get it out and run it

Thanks

jhautz 05.20.2008 07:46 AM

What motor are you running? The BK controllers only like the 2 pole motors like the Feiago, Lehner, Hacker. It wont run well with a Neu or Mega or any other motor that is more than 2 poles.

lutach 05.20.2008 07:47 AM

If you have one of the high amp models, the rpm limit is only 42000rpm.

evader 05.20.2008 12:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
it's the Feiago motor. It was running just fine for the guy I bought it off of. He was running a dsm radio and receiver (I'm not). I've tried 2 different receivers so far but am still having the same problem. It seems to be alright if I ease onto the throttle...but when I hammer the throttle it stutters.

I don't know a whole lot about this stuff...that's why I bought it from someone else and didn't build my own. I was hoping to just be able to put my receiver in it and go...

Like I said, I don't know much about this stuff but I wasn't sure if maybe my receiver was too close to the esc? I've attached a picture of how it is set up.

Somebody mentioned to me that I might need something called a "glitch buster"?

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks

lincpimp 05.20.2008 12:25 PM

I am guessing that the white shrink wrapped thingy is the ubec. They produce some interference, and may mess with the receiver. Move the receiver away from any of the power and ubec wires, maybe to the other end of the truck.

Dsm is not usually affected by ubec interference, while yyour fm may be. Just move the rec around until you fix the problem.

lutach 05.20.2008 03:46 PM

One of the jumpers is for calibrating your controller to your radio. Have you done that yet? It is the jumper right next to the capacitor and the other jumper is if you want to disable the BEC. (I might be wrong, it's been a while since I messed with my BK ESCs).

evader 05.21.2008 12:51 PM

I tried moving the receiver around but still having the same problem. I followed the steps listed here http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...?s=&threadid=8 for setting up the controller. Is there something else I need to do?

crazyjr 05.21.2008 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutach (Post 174919)
One of the jumpers is for calibrating your controller to your radio. Have you done that yet? It is the jumper right next to the capacitor and the other jumper is if you want to disable the BEC. (I might be wrong, it's been a while since I messed with my BK ESCs).

Its a Koolflight BEC, its a pretty good bec noise wise. i got mine at least 2" away just in case

lutach 05.21.2008 01:10 PM

I gave up on external BEC a while ago and I only use a rx pack for my set ups that needs it.

evader 05.21.2008 01:13 PM

2 Attachment(s)
ok, just to make sure I'm doing everything properly. These are the steps I followed from the link posted above...

remove the red programming bridge (little red jumper near the battery leads). While you are there, you should also remove the black BEC jumper if you are using a receiver pack or UBEC as recommended. This black tab is near the red jumper, but tucked under the heatshrink. Remove this to disable the BEC and utilize the receiver pack/UBEC.
Now plug in the receiver pack/UBEC and the main batteries and wait. After 5 seconds, you will here a beep from the motor. When you here this beep, move the throttle to full power and wait. after another 5 seconds, you will here another beep. When you here this, move your throttle control to full reverse and wait. After 5 seconds, you will here a double beep, indicating that set up is complete. Now replace the red programming jumper and turn off/unplug your main batteries and receiver pack.


So this is what I've done...

step 1 - I remove the red jumper that is sticking out in the first picture I've attached as well as the black one that is located beside it.
step 2 - I plug the batteries in
step 3 - after the motor beeps I go full throttle until the motor beeps again then I move to full reverse until the motor does a double beep.
step 4 - I put the red jumper and the black jumper back on
step 5 - I unplug the batteries.

I've tried moving the receiver as far away as I can from the thing that is wrapped in white at the front of the truck (which I guess is the ubec?), but the wires will only allow me to move it so far and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Am I missing something or doing something incorrect when setting it up?

lutach 05.21.2008 01:26 PM

You mentioned the bridge came unsoldered. Did the traces broke off or just where the solder was came off?

BrianG 05.21.2008 01:28 PM

It sounds like everything is working OK, and the setup sounds right. Other things to look at:

- Are your batteries up to the task? Weaker/tired cells won't be able to deliver the current required.

- Are the connectors (power and motor) dirty, loose, or soldered badly? Those won't pass the current effectively and will also cause voltage drops.

evader 05.22.2008 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutach (Post 175264)
You mentioned the bridge came unsoldered. Did the traces broke off or just where the solder was came off?

I think it just came unsoldered...if the traces broke off would it still work? If they did break off can they easily be replaced?

lutach 05.22.2008 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 175614)
I think it just came unsoldered...if the traces broke off would it still work? If they did break off can they easily be replaced?

I have a BK that had the same problem. What I did was just expose where the trace is and soldered on top of it. The PCP trace that was on the bridge have to be removed. I wish I had it with out the black shrink wrap as I would take some detailed pictures for you. Contact GriffinRU, he'll have a solution for this.

GriffinRU 05.22.2008 10:43 PM

I have pictures of car-type ESC's at my page
 
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...block&id=95896

Do you have 6V or 5V UBEC? I had problems in the past with Airtronics receiver running at 6V from similar UBEC...

GriffinRU 05.23.2008 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 175614)
I think it just came unsoldered...if the traces broke off would it still work? If they did break off can they easily be replaced?

Yes, restore your broken trace to match attached image.

evader 05.24.2008 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU (Post 175827)
Do you have 6V or 5V UBEC? I had problems in the past with Airtronics receiver running at 6V from similar UBEC...

I believe it's a 6V UBEC. I originally had a JRRS300 receiver in it but it was doing the same thing so I tried the Airtronics receiver...but still no better...

GriffinRU 05.25.2008 11:02 PM

Do you have a picture of your ESC?
Do you need help in restoring connector/traces?

evader 05.26.2008 06:52 AM

there are a couple pics on the first page of this thread. The esc is the one in the white shrink wrap I'm guessing?

I would love some help in restoring the connector/traces...I really have no idea what I'm doing :oops:

Dafni 05.26.2008 08:59 AM

Here's my bet: If it's okay when you ease into the throttle, but stutters when you punch it, your batteries are too weak. The BKs do that when your batteries are a) almost empty, or b) not up to the task.

Try with better batteries, chances are your issues will disappear.

Daf

evader 05.26.2008 09:13 AM

ok, I'll try some new batteries. I've just been using the ones that came with it...so I really don't know how good they are or aren't. What batteries should I use? I've got a few fairly new 3000 packs that I put in my sons emaxx for him. Would those be decent enough to use just to see if that's the problem or do I need something better than that?

Dafni 05.26.2008 09:28 AM

Basically new NiMH cells should do the trick. But decent Lipos would show you the real potential of your setup.

evader 05.26.2008 10:08 AM

Thanks. I think I'll hold off on getting any lipos until I figure out if this truck will even work properly or not

GriffinRU 05.26.2008 11:36 AM

Good call Daniel, but he still needs to restore connector, otherwise he cannot re-program it or cannot enable/disable BEC, I do not know which one is broken i.e. close to the board edge (usual suspect, programming jumper) or second one from boards edge (enable/disable BEC). If it is BEC's jumper than he is Ok because he doesn't need it, better be disabled, but if not then restoration required.

To evader:
You can send it to me and I will recover it for you, just cover the shipment cost ($5.00 by priority mail). If you want I can add couple goodies to your ESC to improve it a little bit. If interested send me PM.

GriffinRU 05.26.2008 11:44 AM

!!! Severe Error !!!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 175262)
ok, just to make sure I'm doing everything properly. These are the steps I followed from the link posted above...

remove the red programming bridge (little red jumper near the battery leads). While you are there, you should also remove the black BEC jumper if you are using a receiver pack or UBEC as recommended. This black tab is near the red jumper, but tucked under the heatshrink. Remove this to disable the BEC and utilize the receiver pack/UBEC.
Now plug in the receiver pack/UBEC and the main batteries and wait. After 5 seconds, you will here a beep from the motor. When you here this beep, move the throttle to full power and wait. after another 5 seconds, you will here another beep. When you here this, move your throttle control to full reverse and wait. After 5 seconds, you will here a double beep, indicating that set up is complete. Now replace the red programming jumper and turn off/unplug your main batteries and receiver pack.

So this is what I've done...

step 1 - I remove the red jumper that is sticking out in the first picture I've attached as well as the black one that is located beside it.
step 2 - I plug the batteries in
step 3 - after the motor beeps I go full throttle until the motor beeps again then I move to full reverse until the motor does a double beep.
step 4 - I put the red jumper and the black jumper back on
step 5 - I unplug the batteries.

I've tried moving the receiver as far away as I can from the thing that is wrapped in white at the front of the truck (which I guess is the ubec?), but the wires will only allow me to move it so far and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Am I missing something or doing something incorrect when setting it up?

!!!DO NOT PUT BLACK JUMPER BACK ON!!!

Check step 4, leave black jumper (enable/disable BEC) out...

evader 05.26.2008 06:59 PM

well I tried it with the 3000 pack I have fully charged as well as without putting the black jumper back on and it's still doing the same thing.

The connector that came off is the one close the front of the board edge.

If there was a problem with it would it still let me go through the steps of programming it? For instance would it still beep and everything if there was a problem with the connector?

GriffinRU 05.26.2008 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 176839)
well I tried it with the 3000 pack I have fully charged as well as without putting the black jumper back on and it's still doing the same thing.

The connector that came off is the one close the front of the board edge.

If there was a problem with it would it still let me go through the steps of programming it? For instance would it still beep and everything if there was a problem with the connector?

Every time you power it up it would be in programming mode, so I am not sure what ESC would do...is it normal operational mode probably not, so I think you need restore this pin first and then continue with testing. Now I am curious what is going on with built-in BEC, is it still alive or dead, after fighting with UBEC (5V vs. 6V).

I do not have BK ESC on hand to verify operation with open jumper.

GriffinRU 06.07.2008 11:57 AM

BK-Electronics ESC Mods
 
Haven't received your ESC yet, but here is an example of what I can do to it.

http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172052
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172053
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172054
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172055
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172056
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172057
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172058
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172059
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172060
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172061
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172062
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172063
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172064
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=172065

evader 06.08.2008 01:17 PM

I sent it last week. I will check with the post office tomorrow to see where it is

Thanks again!

evader 06.12.2008 12:53 PM

tracking says it was received at your postal office and went out for delivery on Tuesday. Have you received it yet?

GriffinRU 06.13.2008 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 181616)
tracking says it was received at your postal office and went out for delivery on Tuesday. Have you received it yet?

I received your package, your motor has too much play inside motor-can and bearing are not as smooth. Your ESC need some attention, I will try to tune it up and let you know later.
Nice packaging, have you send me additional packages?

evader 06.13.2008 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU (Post 181788)
I received your package, your motor has too much play inside motor-can and bearing are not as smooth. Your ESC need some attention, I will try to tune it up and let you know later.
Nice packaging, have you send me additional packages?

sent you a PM

ANGRY-ALIEN 06.13.2008 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU (Post 181788)
I received your package, your motor has too much play inside motor-can and bearing are not as smooth. Your ESC need some attention, I will try to tune it up and let you know later.
Nice packaging, have you send me additional packages?

Hi... not to barge in... but I had the same problem with my 12020 and 8Xl setup just last night.. a couple days ago I ran the truck without the cover and flipped it.. the motor made good contact with the ground (concrete:whip:) and bent the motor mount... at first, the motor would not rotate by hand, then all of sudden it did..

Then last night after a little clean up and a change of the motor mount.. I plugged everything back together and did a test... the motor started cogging violently, then I saw the shrink on the 12020 started to tear away.. I pugged everything out, and found that the temp on the motor and controller was very very high..

I went to the BK site to see if I could find any info that would explain what was happening... and I found this:

"Interruption of one motor phase
Motor does not rev up, only jerks back and forth. Disconnect battery immediately, motor can be severely damaged!"

http://www.bk-electronics.com/bk_eng.html

I opened the motor and notice the magnet was making some contact with the
the coils... the bearings also felt a little rough..


Just my 2 cents

Alien..

GriffinRU 06.14.2008 10:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Wow, Gentlemen’s, new BK-Electronics controllers come equipped with bigger heatsinks and fancy epoxy...<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Short story, as Daniel said, with bad NiMh you can make this combo fail miserably at full throttle. Good batteries or LiPo - no problem.<o:p></o:p>
In addition UBEC wasn't soldered, just twisted wires and heatshrink - not good.<o:p></o:p>
Heatsink was completely loose inside heatshrink.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
I do not see any reasons to take controller completely apart, but going to restore programming jumper, replace top capacitors with newer ones (560uF 35V), add TVS and fix power and UBEC wiring. And put heatsink back.

I will upload results later,

evader 06.15.2008 09:36 AM

I really appreciate all the work you are doing Artur. I'm definitely going to have a talk with the guy I bought it from

Thanks again!

GriffinRU 06.15.2008 11:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by evader (Post 182277)
I really appreciate all the work you are doing Artur. I'm definitely going to have a talk with the guy I bought it from

Thanks again!

I would be able to ship it back on Friday-Saturday (June,20-21).<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
I also recommend to shorten motor leads as much as possible, they are excessively long from what I can see. Can you measure how long you need them so I can chop them accordingly?<o:p></o:p>
I do prefer male pins on Motor and female on controller, but you can have as it is.<o:p></o:p>
If you do not plan to switch motors on the fly I can solder motor directly to controller.<o:p></o:p>
Let me know what you think,<o:p></o:p>

evader 06.15.2008 06:59 PM

It looks awesome!!!

I won't be switching motors so if you can solder it directly that would be great.

Can you send it priority or whatever is the fastest (but not UPS) when you send them back? We have a big race on the June 29th and if at all possible I would love to run this truck in that race. If shipping is more than what I have sent so far I will send some more money...just let me know.

Thanks again man


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