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-   -   Tekno RC Neu or Orig Neu (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12705)

George16 06.10.2008 05:52 PM

Tekno RC Neu or Orig Neu
 
If you have a choice between a tekno RC 1515 1Y/F and original 1515 I Y/S, which one would you buy?

Motor will be installed on a Gmaxx.

DRIFT_BUGGY 06.10.2008 05:55 PM

Well the Tekno one has bigger bearings and has sealed can, so Tekno

mkrusedc 06.10.2008 06:36 PM

IIRC the differences are that the Tekno Neu has a sealed (can no dust but may run hotter), larger bearing, flat spot on shaft, and machined wound. I also think they made the mounting screw holes deeper.

Is the rest really the same? Quality of wind, wire, magnets?

entjoles 06.10.2008 08:15 PM

mine runs rather warm on 4s and 5s, tekno neu 1515 1y, after 15 min it was 160* on a 70* day


i may change gearing , but think it is ok for now

George16 06.10.2008 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by entjoles (Post 181106)
mine runs rather warm on 4s and 5s, tekno neu 1515 1y, after 15 min it was 160* on a 70* day


i may change gearing , but think it is ok for now



Huh? But which one would you prefer? The reason I'm asking is I got an email from a vendor stating that have the smooth can orig Neu. However, I also bought a tekno rc neu and I'm hoping for delivry this week.

entjoles 06.10.2008 08:41 PM

i have never ran a original, and the tekno is supposed to be more car oriented, but seem to have a little higher temp and weaker magnets to decrease cogging

George16 06.10.2008 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by entjoles (Post 181118)
i have never ran a original, and the tekno is supposed to be more car oriented, but seem to have a little higher temp and weaker magnets to decrease cogging


The TEKNO RC Neu is finned so I don't understand how it have higher temps (given the same gearing and everything) when the fins are supposed to dissipate the heat quicker than the smooth can. I remember a post by Tekno RC stating that everything (magnet,poles) are the same between the 2 with the exception of what's noted previously by mkrusedc.

VintageMA 06.10.2008 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkrusedc (Post 181076)
IIRC the differences are that the Tekno Neu has a sealed (can no dust but may run hotter), larger bearing, flat spot on shaft, and machined wound. I also think they made the mounting screw holes deeper.

Is the rest really the same? Quality of wind, wire, magnets?

I have to question your comment about machine wound - please post where you heard this information.

Straight on the Tekno RC website it posted that the motor is hand made:

Tekno RC strikes again!

This time we've teamed up with the world's best motor manufacturer to bring you the finest 1/8th scale electric brushless motors available.

The Tekno RC Edition Neu Motors feature:

* Larger 5x13x4mm bearings front and back
* Sealed motor can
* Rear end bell is safely secured by Neu's latest design, a must for any car application
* Flat spot along length of shaft (no more grinding)
* Industry standard easy to find 4mm bullet plugs installed
* Cool blue anodizing and signature finned case lets your competition know you aren't messing around :)
* A selection of winds will be available to suit 3, 4, 5, and 6s 1/8th scale buggy and truggy applications
* These are genuine hand-built Neu motors, not mass produced

entjoles 06.10.2008 11:25 PM

these are just my observations..............:whistle:

so dont shoot the messenger:rules:



the closed ends , and weaker magnets - supposed to reduce cogging(there is a thread around here somewhere about how easy the tekno neus turn compared to a original neu) must make them run hotter, and maybe not as effiecent(sp)

either way i am very satisfied with mine, i just hope with a little gearing change i can get mine around 120* on a 70* day so it will be about 50* above air temps

Jeremy1976 06.10.2008 11:38 PM

I thought hot for a BL motor was 200 degrees???? Anyways with as good of quality as the Neu's are I would not worry too much about 170 degree temps. JMO

VintageMA 06.10.2008 11:42 PM

I don't see the closed ends as a detriment to the design. We probably mostly all run the rear RCM cover and do something to cover the holes in the front to prevent dust from getting in anyway.

I've got a 1509 and 1512 and the Tekno 1515 and I don't notice the Tekno motor spinning more easily by hand at all. Wish I had a 1515 to compare it to.

I can tell the Tekno 1515 has definitely got some more kick than the 1512, temps are lower, Amp draw is about the same (which makes sense - 2050kv for 1512 and 1700 kv for 1515). I am a happy customer.

My only complaint is the pre-attached bullets, took me an extra 2 minutes to unsolder them to put on the 6.5mm ones. :tongue:

Jeremy1976 06.10.2008 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VintageMA (Post 181179)
I don't see the closed ends as a detriment to the design. We probably mostly all run the rear RCM cover and do something to cover the holes in the front to prevent dust from getting in anyway.

I've got a 1509 and 1512 and the Tekno 1515 and I don't notice the Tekno motor spinning more easily by hand at all. Wish I had a 1515 to compare it to.

I can tell the Tekno 1515 has definitely got some more kick than the 1512, temps are lower, Amp draw is about the same (which makes sense - 2050kv for 1512 and 1700 kv for 1515). I am a happy customer.

My only complaint is the pre-attached bullets, took me an extra 2 minutes to unsolder them to put on the 6.5mm ones. :tongue:

My 1.5d Tekno did not come with them preattached. Glad too unless it would of been the 6mm ones.

DRIFT_BUGGY 06.11.2008 12:03 AM

There is also a topic on the Tekno/Neu Motor which may help out http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12456

entjoles 06.11.2008 12:31 AM

here is the thread that i was thinking of

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12364

George16 06.11.2008 01:00 AM

I finally receive my Tekno RC neu 1515 1Y/F today. Wohooo. I can turn the shaft easily by hand too.

Pic.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture064.jpg

DRIFT_BUGGY 06.11.2008 01:16 AM

Sweet, be sure to post back on how it performs

George16 06.11.2008 01:26 AM

Guys, you can check out on y build here: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12463

I just updated it with more pictures. As usual, any comments or tips are greatly appreciated.

teknorc 06.11.2008 02:50 AM

Hello,

Just to clarify, these are exactly the same inside as all of the newer Neu motors. All of the newer motors have an updated stator/rotor design to reduce cogging. It is not specific to our version, but rather a new thing for all Neu 1515 and some 1512 motors (not sure about the other sizes). Older Neu's will be harder to turn by hand. FYI :)

George16 06.11.2008 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 181220)
Hello,

Just to clarify, these are exactly the same inside as all of the newer Neu motors. All of the newer motors have an updated stator/rotor design to reduce cogging. It is not specific to our version, but rather a new thing for all Neu 1515 and some 1512 motors (not sure about the other sizes). Older Neu's will be harder to turn by hand. FYI :)

Thanks for the clarification. I just receive my Neu today :intello:. However, on you website, you stated that a selection of winds will be available to suit 3, 4, 5, and 6s 1/8th scale buggy and truggy applications.How would I know which one I got since the motor did not come with anything (spec sheet, instruction etc)? I'll be running mine on 6S.

mkrusedc 06.11.2008 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VintageMA (Post 181170)
I have to question your comment about machine wound - please post where you heard this information.

Straight on the Tekno RC website it posted that the motor is hand made:

* These are genuine hand-built Neu motors, not mass produced

Thanks for the clarification. I read it on this forum in one of the first threads about the new tekno Neu.

Quote:

Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 181220)
Hello,

Just to clarify, these are exactly the same inside as all of the newer Neu motors. All of the newer motors have an updated stator/rotor design to reduce cogging. It is not specific to our version, but rather a new thing for all Neu 1515 and some 1512 motors (not sure about the other sizes). Older Neu's will be harder to turn by hand. FYI :)


With this info than, even though I have an older one, it sound like the newer versions would be better.

George16 06.11.2008 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkrusedc (Post 181278)
With this info than, even though I have an older one, it sound like the newer versions would be better.

That what it sounds like but this phrase got me wondering: a selection of winds will be available to suit 3, 4, 5, and 6s 1/8th scale buggy and truggy applications.

mkrusedc 06.11.2008 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George16 (Post 181281)
That what it sounds like but this phrase got me wondering: a selection of winds will be available to suit 3, 4, 5, and 6s 1/8th scale buggy and truggy applications.

Wye and Delta or number of windings?

George16 06.11.2008 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkrusedc (Post 181287)
Wye and Delta or number of windings?

Or could be both. So, what if I got a motor for 3S and I'm using 6S?

VintageMA 06.11.2008 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George16 (Post 181288)
Or could be both. So, what if I got a motor for 3S and I'm using 6S?

You'll have a motor turning twice as fast than it is rated for - :wink:

I think by 3s, 4s, 5s, etc they mean a motor selection appropriate for running on each of the number of cells.

ie: 2200kv for 4S, 1700 for 5S, etc.

Matthew_Armeni 06.11.2008 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VintageMA (Post 181293)
I think by 3s, 4s, 5s, etc they mean a motor selection appropriate for running on each of the number of cells.

ie: 2200kv for 4S, 1700 for 5S, etc.


That's exactly right.:smile:

mkrusedc 06.11.2008 03:55 PM

So help an electric noob out. Why is the Neu 1515 1y 2200kv best run on 5s?

FunkedOut 06.11.2008 04:25 PM

2200rpm * 4s * 4.2V/cell = 36,960rpm
2200rpm * 5s * 4.2V/cell = 46,200rpm
2200rpm * 6s * 4.2V/cell = 55,440rpm
neu says top limit is 60,000rpm

the closer to that limit, the more wear on the bearings.

TexasSP 06.11.2008 05:43 PM

But you're not going to get 4.2 volts per cell under full load.

BrianG 06.11.2008 05:56 PM

Not only don't lipos stay at 4.2v/cell for very long at all, but any amount of current reduces the kv rating...

FunkedOut 06.11.2008 07:41 PM

i was just trying to teach a man to fish...

George16 06.11.2008 10:45 PM

I think I'm going to order 2 2S neuenergy batts and pair each to my 3S for a 5S setup. I like the power of the 6S on 51/20 gearing though :).

Mozzy 06.12.2008 04:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkedOut (Post 181411)
i was just trying to teach a man to fish...

I think your fishing methods aren't correct.

Isn't the max RPM of a motor based on the size of the pack X the kv?

ie:

3s = 11.1v x 2200kv = 24420 RPM
4s = 14.8v x 2200kv = 32560 RPM
5s = 18.5v x 2200kv = 40700 RPM
6s = 22.2v x 2200kv = 48840 RPM

Or am I way off the mark here? :neutral:

George16 06.12.2008 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozzy (Post 181543)
I think your fishing methods aren't correct.

Isn't the max RPM of a motor based on the size of the pack X the kv?

ie:

3s = 11.1v x 2200kv = 24420 RPM
4s = 14.8v x 2200kv = 32560 RPM
5s = 18.5v x 2200kv = 40700 RPM
6s = 22.2v x 2200kv = 48840 RPM

Or am I way off the mark here? :neutral:

That's what it says on Brian speed calculator :lol:.

hoovhartid 06.12.2008 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozzy (Post 181543)
I think your fishing methods aren't correct.

Isn't the max RPM of a motor based on the size of the pack X the kv?

ie:

3s = 11.1v x 2200kv = 24420 RPM
4s = 14.8v x 2200kv = 32560 RPM
5s = 18.5v x 2200kv = 40700 RPM
6s = 22.2v x 2200kv = 48840 RPM

Or am I way off the mark here? :neutral:

yeah...i think he was just using 4.2v instead of 3.7v :neutral:

3s X 3.7 = 11.1 vs 3s X 4.2 = 12.6

but remember the max rpm of a motor is still limited by the quality of construction and size of the motor. In this case, we are talking about neu motors which have a max rpm recommendation of 60,000rpm. So take your max rpm and divide by your voltage to get the max kv rating.

60000 / 22.2 = 2702kv
now is this the end?....nope
while you CAN run the motor to 60000rpm, it doesn't mean you should. Running any motor at its max will most likely cause heat/efficency issues.

and here is where brian and others could probably school me...
...i have heard that its best to run these motors in the 40000-50000rpm range for best efficency.

which is why I bought the 1515/1Y to run on 6s (22.2 X 2200 = 48000rpm max) Only time will tell....:neutral:

Mozzy 06.12.2008 05:28 AM

So, me running my 2700kv on 5s @ 49950rpm is pretty much right on the money.

Also saying that my gear ratios are ok to not overheat the motor. So far it's ok.

FunkedOut 06.12.2008 02:46 PM

yes, exactly. i use 4.2V per cell as worst case (highest rpm), as lipos come off the charger at 4.2V per cell.

i never did catch much fish.

bl-is-future 06.12.2008 03:00 PM

yep to get the true MAX rpm you will need to use 4.2v/cell. Any lipo charger will charge the lipos to 4.2v/cell unless you tell it to cut off at less on some chargers.

Electric Dave 06.12.2008 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozzy (Post 181554)
So, me running my 2700kv on 5s @ 49950rpm is pretty much right on the money.

I think that's WAY overkill. I've got a CRT running 4s on a 2200kv and it's ballistically fast. Too much speed and power for the track - big track too. Can't imagine how unholy the speed of a 2700kv on 5s will be...you can't gear low enough...

VintageMA 06.12.2008 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl-is-future (Post 181634)
yep to get the true MAX rpm you will need to use 4.2v/cell. Any lipo charger will charge the lipos to 4.2v/cell unless you tell it to cut off at less on some chargers.

I wouldn't be concerned with using 4.2 volts/cell in any of your calculations because your cell will never hold that voltage (even fresh off the charger) when you wind that motor up to full speed. Best case you are looking at is 3.7-3.8 for a while and closer to 3.5 (with only the best lipos) when pulling ~20C.

As here is where 2S and 3S setups will have trouble as you'll be pulling big amps and the per cell voltage will be closer to 3.3-3.5v/cell.

I use the nominal 3.7v/cell in all speed calculations for HV. If you are going LV (ie: 2S or 3S) I would recommend using 3.5v.

George16 06.12.2008 05:59 PM

If that's the case, I'm staying with 6S on my 1515 1Y then. Right now, it's geared 51/20 with 43/13 1/8 scale diffs.


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