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HELP wont move at all
i jsut had my e-maxx out the motor got hot but i could still touch it and now it wont move at alli can program the controller it beeps and everything but the motor will not turn at all any ideas?
ive swapped radios servos batterys and everything so im assuming something is brok but ive only had i a few weeks sll i did was drive it around a car park for 10min please help |
Let the motor cool all the way down.
Check if all the wires are connected properly with good contact. Make sure all the CVDs and gears can rotate smoothly, nothing trapping. Try taking the motor out and running it just holding it, that will tell you if it is a chassis problem or motor/ESC. |
the motor is stone cold in front of me now out of truck and still nothing shaft moves freely by hand
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update: when i do the program the pinion does jumo slightly when it beeps
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What controller/motor is it? can you get through the programming steps all the way?
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its the 9L motor and the 9920 controller and i can get all through the programing
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have you tried checking the normal and reverse switch on ur radio.?.. the normal and reverse for the throttle. i don't know if this would make any difference...
it's pretty hard to fry a motor isn't it?.. I ran 120K on my cheappy himax 380 size motor. and it moved it better than my buddies HV maxx.. :) Try the switch... mayble it'll help, |
yes i have tried that i have spent the last 3 hours trying to get it to work and all ive achive is getting really pissed off ive had it a few months and barley used it and i was going to race it tommorow for th first time
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How many cells? Are you using the controllers BEC? A receiver pack? UBEC?
Did it suddenly stop working, or did it work fine the last time you used it, but wouldn't work the next time you wanted to use it? |
The motor is probably good, since it beeps. The reason why the motor's pinion jumps when you hear a beep is because the controller sends a pulse to the motor that causes the beeping noise.
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im using 14cells a seperate reciver pack and it suddenly stopped i left it 5min and it started again for a min or so and stopped again and i havent got it to work since
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If you smell the controller, does it smell strange?
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Do you have another motor to try? In another thread, you said the motor was scorching hot. It is possible that it got so hot that it demagnatized itself(I did this with a 10L once). The motor wouldn't move the truck at all. I didn't try to program it after it happened, though.
Also, check to make sure the programming jumper hasn't come loose. This would cause it to not work(would try to program instead of trying to run). Do you get any beeps when you try to run it? Is the reciever lead from the controller plugged into the receiver in the proper orientation(sounds simple, but I have plugged it in backwards myself)? |
i dont have another motor and it was hot enough to touch for a couple of seconds before i had to take my finger away
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i dont have another motor and it was hot enough to touch for a couple of seconds before i had to take my finger away
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How about the jumpers and receiver lead plugs? Did you check these? any beeps when you try to run it?
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yes checked them when the programing jumper is on there are no bleeps and no movment at all
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Try using a different reciever pack...
maybe the white signal wire is ripped or something.. |
ive tried swapping reciver and the wire is fine
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Monkey, I mean the signal wire one the ESC... That happenned to me once.... it was just a little bit loose...
Well, good luck with it buddy.. |
i now what you mean i have followed it from the plug allthe way to the board and its not damaged
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D*mn, that's gotta suck dude...
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Okay. The fact that you are able to program it, with the peeps and all, makes us rule out alot of reasons.
Does the motor spin without load? (without pinion) Even if only very slowly? You said the shaft movery free, right!? |
yea the shaft moves freely the only time it moves is when it bleeps in programing (jumps abit)i have taken to motor out of the truck and it dosent move still
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how many beeps do you get... ?
cuz for my shulze, if I don't get the last beep.. that means I get no signal.. |
i get all 3 sets of beeps
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Any news, Monkey? Did you figured it out? If not, how about sending the combo to Mike?
Maybe you could open the shrink on the ESC and look for some damaged components or connections? |
I have a question and suggestion. If you take a single cell and touch the two wires going in the motor it should spin with out damage. Couldn't you check the motor out this way? I know you can't attach it and it run like a brushed. At least I wouldn't think you could.
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Indeed you can't. And I don't know about this "one cell between two wires" trick either, Coolhand.
When the motor "beeps", the winds must be okay, correct? |
I tried it on a 14L. It made the motor spin. Just different directions. I tried it a couple times. Not sure what made me do it.:D
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well im pretty sure there is a problem with the controller and not motor and i only got it a few weeks ago so i sent it to bk under warenty as i like in UK its probably easier to do this than send it to mike ill let you now when i get it back/a reply
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i got an e-mail from bk and the wont repair it under the warenty so im gona have to pay $60 im abit unsure of what they say is the cause there reply was
the controller was using with > 100 Amp BEC current (Voltage) was to high ! i dunno what they are saying about the BEC that was turned off and how was 100A drawn :S abit unsure but guess ill have to pay just wanna undenstand why it happened so i dont do it again |
i posted yet it stays on page 2 and it took me 30minute to get it to post :(
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wow how could you get more than 100 amps with 14 cells? at least you got it sorted out.
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I think a gp battery will put out 100 amps. If it shorted out it would draw a 100 amps. My question is. Did it short out?
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Coolhand, the method you used testing the motor is fine, but you need to know what your doing. You are allmost shorting the cell at 0 ohm, and 1 cell can trow out a 110A+ so the motor might get burned if you keep it on too long. testing a motor is easy; Just whort two wires at random, and you should feel a pulsing resistance, if you short them all three, the resistance should be equal, no matter what possition the rotor is in. (it works like a generator that way)
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the batterys didnt short they wernt even hot so how the hell did i get 100A through to ESC surley if the ESC shorted that should be under warenty
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You got a good point. I was think that maybe where the jumper went on touched the chassis. I did that to a Ubec. Needless to say I didn't use the ubec anymore.
I understand what you saying serum. I didn't keep the battery on there. Just testing. Touch it and see if anything happens. Didn't want to touch all three. |
BK once tested one of my Warriors, and they told me I had numerous 130 amp peaks! Only ran a 9L and 14 cells on this one.
Don't ask me why. Maybe a bound up drivetrain?? :C: |
there was nothing wrong with the rest of the car im just annoyed im having to pay for the repair when i dont even now why its happened
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