two fast questions!!!
 

first i want to ask how i can drop the temps on my MM, after only about 5-10 minutes it was hot. and that was just bashing. long racing itll probly get hotter? this is in a revo by the way with a mega motor. no ccbec yet but it is comming. second, my castle link wont download? i tried taking it from the site too and that didnt work. i keep getting a warning saying that continuing the installation will disrupt or distabalize the way my computer performs and that its possible to completely stop my computer?

CC BEC, HV Cap and a fan - thats all you can do apart from gearing etc

Post your setup for more info...

On the CC link please post details of your pc setup

revo 2.5. im running 15/38 gearing with stock clutch on the tekno conversion. close ratio internal gearing. its a MM esc and a mega ACn22/30/1 3500kv. im only running 3s maxamps 5000 pack.

my computer is a compaq presario with windows xp

What timing is the MM set at? The Mega being a 6 pole motor, likes High timing.

its all bone stock. my castle link doesnt work so everything is default straight from the factory. once i get the castle link working is it possible for me to bump up the timing? that might help it run a little cooler? and by the way lutach, i absolutely love my mega. its amazingly strong.

Try setting your Mamba with your radio. It's very simple. I love the torque the Mega produces.

I ran the same motor, esc and a 4000mah 3S in a rustler and my MM got too hot and shut down alot. I tried different settings and nothing helped. Sent it to Artur for mod one and problem solved.

that error always shows on my pc's just ignore it :) it will work after that... also using a ubec will help alot (should)

I think to stop the esc running hot you should get another, the MM really wasn't designed to a run a big MT, especially on 3s.

As others have said, if you must stick with it, BEC, Caps and fan should help. Plus programming.

Once you get into the castle link programming, I'd update it, then set your start power to high and disable punch control and of course set your lipo cutoff. Thats about the only thing I can think of to help keep your esc temps down some. Perhaps getting some airflow to it will help with body mod?

Both my PC and Laptop gave me that warning message. Neither one of them have crashed since loading and using Castle Link. Typical MS BS. Anyway, not familiar with the the mega motors. I've got an E-Max running a MM and Neu 1512 1Y (2750KV). I'm using a CC BEC and a glitch buster cap on my Rx. I put two fans on the MM, one blows on the heatsink, the other in through a 3/4" hole in the back of the case. Small holes all around the sides of the case to let air back out. Temps stay under 150 as long as both fans are working. Lost the one on the sink in a main and temps went to 180 pretty quick. Running 2@ 2S 8K LiPo. Punch control at 70%, brake at 40%, start on high, timing lowest. The MM is not really meant for Montser Truck duty. It's a temporary while my MMMs get put back together. If you get the BEC, that will help some with the temps, and 4S gives you more voltage, less amps, so that takes some of the heat off the ESC to. Your going to be working a 3S 5K 20C pack awfull hard in an E-Revo. The 2s 8k MaxAmps were at 105 degF and only took 3200mah to recharge after a 10 minute main. Not sure about the differences between motors, but the weight of the trucks should be similar so I hope some of this helps.

yeh... well I'll download the castle link and set it up for higher start and all that stuff. i need to disable my brakes and reverse since im using the tekno conversion. I will be running 4s soon enough I think. i am also charging a rx pack and im gonna see if that helps temps at all. I was told that the MM should work fine in the truck... and how could I set the mamba with my controler?

well i just downloaded castle link and tried connecting my MM esc but it wont pick up the connection? it says there is no device connected and I cant seem to get it to pick up?

MM is fine in a revo - 4s is the best compromise - 5s is good but some controllers won't take it without draining the battery a little.

You do need an UBEC, fan and I would suggest a High Volatage, High temp, low ESR capacitor in the order of 2700f. The novak one at HV one at $10 works or there is someone doing them individually for a few $'s on ebay.

I toasted 3 MM before adding the capacitor and havn't had any issues since - It works (ps even mike uses an extra cap)

You mean lower ESR right? :wink:

i feel like its my bec that is making it heat up so bad. even without really running the motor. just lightly in circles, it heats up really really fast. no punching the throttle or anything like that. im gonna guess that thats a bec problem? once my battery is charged i plan on running it with a rx pack to see how it does.

would it be better for me to run 12 cells and get 14.4v instead of running 3s with only 11.1? if what ya'll are saying is right then wouldnt that be better? its mroe power which would mean less amp draw right?

It could be the BEC. Anything over 2s or 6 cells is going to cause a lot of heat, especially with a larger servo and/or heavy truck (servo works harder to turn).

However, the BEC circuit is on the underside of the ESC (near the USB port), so the heatsink isn't doing anything at all for it. If the heatsink is hot, the vast majority of the heat is coming from the FETs and the issue is with motor selection or gearing.

well I just talked to Joe at castle and he said the way mine is it should be absolutely fine. I told him how it gets hot and to the point where I can only touch it for a few seconds before it burns. he says his will be so hot that it will melt skin and it will still run fine. is that right? my bec is coming out soon anyways. ordering a ccbec tonight. and ill get a nice cap on there too.

ps: briang - i like the binary sig... hahaha

is it possible for my internal bec to be causing glitches? with the ESC getting really hot, is it possible for the bec to overheat and cause glitching?

Well, if you can touch it for a couple seconds, you are in the 140-150 degree range (approx.) The MM is designed to run to 200 degrees, so you should be OK.

Patrick

what about the bec causing glitches? this is really becoming a problem now. after about 5 minutes of driving it starts to glitch really bad and has started to run from me twice. i got lucky enough for it to respond to brakes right before it hit a mailbox at 35mph...

I have the MM with a bec and added fan.When I run 3s in my losi 8t the MM gets real hot but if I go 4s it seems to run less hot.That is with a Neu 1515/1.5d.I also run the MM 3s without a bec in my CRT.5 with a Neu 1512/1.5 and it hasnt overheated yet.Mine also without a bec glitched when it got real hot on 3s the steering pulsated also and it had throttle glitches.

will running 12 cells be better then 3s? since its 14.4v over 11.1?

Run an external BEC, and disable the MM BEC -- you are overheating the onboard BEC, that's why it is glitching only after five mins or so.

I also had some glitching problems that sound like yours revracer (lock on throttle, only just respond to brakes in time - i experienced it with a sidewinder on 3s with and without BEC, and with a mamba max on 4s A123 with bec)). It ended up being interference, and all I did was twist the battery wires and braid the motor wires and all signs of it went away.

Anther possible suggestion is running a glitch buster cap in the out side of the BEC - or equivalently in a spare socket on the rx. I thought my voltage was dropping too low to power the rx and it would cut out for a split second - cap should fix that kind of thing.

I have had interference issues, but those were with cheap chinese becs. I just moved the equipment around till it went away. Braiding the motor wires does seem to help, as does keeping the low volt signal wires away from the large leads.

I would say that the mm overheated on the 8t on 3s due to too much load. I guess you regeared it when you went to 4s? More voltage, less gear, gives you less amp draw and the same speed. I bet that lowered the amp draw considerably. I run quite a few larger vehicles on 4s and they can easily pull 140 amps for a few seconds. I can only imagine what that 1.5d was pulling on 3s. Suprised that you did not kill a battery!

so braiding my wires and a BEC and cap should fix everything? simple enough thanks!

Do you have motor plugs? I cut mine off, soldered them, and twisted my motor wires and it cleaned it up alot for me.

Yeah, bad connections between the motor and esc can cause severe glitching. I had issues with the 4mm plugs on the mm before.

i ended up braiding my wires and running a rx pack. ran 10 minutes hard no glitching. esc temps are down a tad. still burns to touch it though... the bottom is cool. but the heatsink is HOT. this was without a body too so it had plenty of airflow... other then a cap and fan now is there anything i can really do to drop temps? it still worries me some. and this is only the beginning of summer for us. itll go up another 10 degree or so and its already breaking 100 every day

A fan will be your best bet, or lower gearing... You may try direct soldering the wires. That could be causing some resistance and thus heat in the esc?!

You might drop up to 10-15 degrees maybe more with a good fan. How long can you keep your finger on the heat sink before it starts to burn? If it take a while specially after 10 minutes, I think thats fine.

its like. you touch it for a second and it burns you... on the heatsink atleast. near the bottom and the mounting plate, which is aluminum, arent that hot at all. its just the heatsink. I will try to double fan the esc and put a fan on the motor as well. the motor isnt running very hot. after about 10 minutes i can hold my finger on it for about 5-10 seconds and it still doesnt really burn you, just really uncomfortable.

All your temps sounds fine to me. Just add a fan on the Mamba and it should be fine. The motor won't need a fan at all.

the burning of the esc worries me slightly. it is literally too hot to touch. it burns you almost instantly. how should i mount a fan onto the esc? would the cap still be a good idea and help drop the temps or help performance at all? I want the most i can get out of this without sending it somewhere to be modded.

Some people screw the fan on, some use zip ties. The cap is a good choice as well.

so basically $15-$20 will drop my esc a good 10-15 degrees? thats pretty good...

Gear it down, your pushing that little thing waaayy harder that what was intended for it.

And we (I, at least) are saying doing these things MIGHT help it, no guarantees.

there still isnt anyone who will tell me about running 12 cells instead of 3s lipo. would it help with temps since itll be less strain? and i have a 40tooth spur so ill try that sometime soon. whats with all these other people who run bigger motors than mine and their esc is fine. i just ran it with a 5700 motor on 3s in a buggy and it heated up just as much as in my revo. whats up with this?!