E-maxx 3906 Twin HV4400, 14cell 4200mAh
 

Hi guys, I'm new here. read thru a few treads and very impress with all the mods seen. I need more infor or ideas as to how I can make more out of my Emaxx. Gorillamaxx G3 carbon is in the budget, maybe flextek arms:wink:. Cannot decide on motor yet, Neu?? Lehner?? ESC? MMM or MGM:neutral:. I have A123s coming total up to 7s 4600mAh. Please take a look at my truck and any suggestion on which direction I should go? Transmission??

Thanks

fun
 

You could do like most of us. Your truck looks like a piece of work. Have some fun playing with that one while you build a new one that is more powerful, stronger, and even more impressive. I think most of us started out with Integy and Novak stuff in the begining with the EMaxx, but once you find out about some of the other gear that is available and how much better the quality isthe sky is the limit. We all have a kind of thurst that must be satisfied. The good thing is that as time passes more and more quality stuff is comming to life. Do your research and decide what you like best. There is information in here that covers just about everything that you can imagine. Good luck with that.:lol:

Thanks JERRY2KONE, just want to get some ideas, if any of you would start from scratch, what will the combinations be??

Opinions
 

I am sure that you will get a few different opinions on this matter. I have two stock EMaxx trucks for the kids, then like you I started with an Integy Maxx with the HV 4.5 Novak system. I still have that one and I am always changing out parts trying to improve upon my creation. Then I found out about the Unlimited Engineering stuff. Wow is that a huge improvement from Integy stuff. although the owner seems to be somewhat reluctant to share his plans for the R/C side of his house the stuff is still the best on the market. If you can get you hands on some of that gear you will love it. Now if you wish ot build a truck that is not too expensive and still has very good CNC machined pasrt then you can collect the RCM sold FLM parts for the Maxx line and built one heck of a truck. It all depends on how much money you wish to spend and how long you want to take to build it.

As for the electronics side that is also a bit of a canundrum to figure out. There are some pretty good motors on the market that will deliver a wide range of wanted specs. The Plettenberg "Big Maximum" is probably the king, followed by the "Neu" line of motors plus a few others that can deliver quite an impressive power plant. For your ESC choices just to name a few of the best out there you have the newly released MMM by CC, the MGM line, Tekin RX8 pro, the Quark MK3 pro and the list just keeps growing.

Then to go along with your upgraded R/C truck you have to get Lipo batteries with charger & balancer, and a good radio that can control such power.

You can have a ball on your projects and spend a ton of $$$$ building the fastest, strongest, and most impressive rig, but once you get started it never stops. Unless like some guys we have seen, you have to answer to a higher power (The Wife) & she gives you an ultimatum. We see that often on here. This is not a cheap kids game in here. You can go as far as your wallet and you imagination will allow. If you like the EMaxx design there is tons of info in here as well as a few other trucks, Buggies, and Truggies if you want to go in a different direction. Best of luck in your quest.

Personally after 8 years of different trucks in different configs I am a big fan of simpler is better.

First I use aluminum sparingly as it adds unneeded weight and creates weak points in other places. Second two motor setups in brushless are really not worth it and can be replaced by single more powerful and efficient setups. Third is to consider a revo before sinking any more cash into the e-maxx.

I own a maxx as well and it's a great truck, but it has many weak spots that are almost nonexistent on the revo. The revo is simply a better engineered design and is tougher in stock form than most maxx's that are extremely hopped up. It also handles speed and power much better than the maxx design.

As jerry said also consider some other options to build such as converting a muggy, lst2, savage or other. If it were me I would get rid of the novaks and integy, go with a sinlge motor neu setup and replace the aluminum with RPM, put the new e-maxx chassis on there, and build another truck with the money you want to spend.

Gorilla in the making...
 

OK, Gorillamaxx G3 CF should be here soon (from RC-Monster Mike). Flextek arms are on the way too. Waiting for MGM 16018-3 when Mike have them in stock. What am I missing? Motor, cannot decide yet as I'm trying to do some thing different and not outrunner (maybe). Can anyone recommend any centre diff set up like 1/8 buggy? I saw one very nice here but I can't seen to fine it again, was on a revo with Neu 1521/1Y/S motor.

What I have got so far,
UE's Spyder 8 diff and cases,
UE's Spyder 6 that came with FLM hybrids.
3.3 steel CVDs,
Revo's RPM axle carriers
Supermaxx stock mounts
Supermaxx wing mount
Supermaxx Shocks (needing a rebuild kit)
A123s enough for 2 packs of 13.2V 4600mAh (needing a better charger)
Ofna 17mm wheel adapter.

You guys must have bits lying around. See what i'm missing and PM me price and pictures, I'll consider, as I'm building this one from ground up.

R/c Gear
 

Well it sounds like you are well on your way with the parts you have already. From your list of parts it sounds like you are going in the direction of the G3R truck. Try looking up some of the builds by TDC3 as he was very descriptive in his posts during his projects. You can get quite a bit of info from his threads that will help you out. Your doing just fine so far from what I can read. Good luck with that project and keep us posted on your progress.

E-Maxx vs Revo.
 

Thanks Jerry, I'm sure Revo is a good truck, but I already have some good (and expensive) parts for an E-Maxx. So, I'll stay with the Maxx clan.:lol:

I agree completly with the entire post, and I have learned from trial and error, now if I had a dependable ESC I would be out running right now....

To add, I would just get a 1515 2.5d (~1700kv) for the motor. Any more than that is overkill IMO and just leads to broken parts. You can go faster, but IDK how well the maxx can take it. High 40s is tops IMO

Parts arriving.
 

:yipi::yipi: parts are turning up for my Gorillamaxx build. Still some more to come.:mdr: Just a small dent on the X-brace:oh: nothing a file can't fix.

There are a couple maxxes and revos with center diffs fitted, or being fitted, but unless you can make your own its a difficult route to follow:

V2 slipperential

FLM chassis center diff unit

MaxxBling

I would stick with an upgraded 3906 tranny really. For a motor, either a neu 1515 item, or lehner 1950, maybe even hacker C50XL, depends on your budget really. Seeing as you have enough A123 cells for 7s2p I think, the MMM would be fine (wait for 2nd gen to arrive in a few weeks time), or wait for the tekin Rx8 to arrive. You wont be short on power at anyrate...

Motor decisions..
 

I'm most likely will be getting the MGM 16024 from Mike. But I have been looking around the web for Lehner motors, Can anyone link me to a seller other than Finedesign (won't reply me email) and Lehner website is very helpful but in Euro:surprised:. I'm looking to get the 1950/4 LK HiAmp. Neu's website not very helpful in deciding which is better for what voltage and current draw. Are Lehner 2 poles motor(high PRM)? Neu seems to be 4 poler(more torque). But running a emaxx 3906 trans with 1:8 UE diffs, I have to go higher rpm option.

Question about motor winding, looks like the more windings the lower rpm/volt, does this mean more torque? if that's correct, why can't we have a lot of windings and bolt the motor output shaft directly to the diff's input shaft?

Suicideneil, I using your Gmaxx as my inspiration. How long are you able to run on that 6S2P A123 setup?

The neu's are extremely effecient and powerful motors. The lehners while very nice are hard to come by now. Try the motor selector for one:

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed..._selector.html

And also tell us what you want and what you are going to use:

Cell count, tire size, application etcetera.

Not certain on A123 runtime, I kept lossing a tire and had to stiop every few minutes to push it back on the rim. I would guess about 15-20minutes though roughly, with no loss of speed or punch until they suddenly dumped at the end of the run.

Treat a lehner like a neu pretty much- so upper rpm limit is about 45-50,000rpms, with 40,000 being the sweet spot probably. Temps should be much better than a feigao, with a similar amount of torque I think (both 2 pole motors).

For 6s2p A123 I would say
1515 2.5d (1650kv), what I use on 5s and 6s lipo, and also 6s2p A123 hopefully soon.
or 1515 2D (2050kv). There's one at racing that has enough power on 4s in a Kyosho ST-RR truggy.
or 1515 1y (2200kv). I bought one for 4s racing, but haven't used it yet since there's not much racing in Perth, because of winter.
Those 3 motors should work well with the right gearing, but which ones is best depends on what you want out of it, and what your gearing range is.

Have you been to any of the off road tracks in Perth before? West Coast Model Rally Club in Bayswater is my usual track. There used to be some pretty good maxx's there (all Gorillamaxx and UE) until will all moved to truggies at the end of last year.

Thanks for that infor Patrick, I haven't been around the RC tracks in Perth yet, might drop by once I finish my Gorillamaxx. Looks like a good setup track.

Neu motors at those KV rating can to run higher pinion spur ratio. E-maxx 3906 lowerest spur is about 64t and biggest pinion is 26t. Still looking out for 1/8 buggy style trans setup, then Neu would be a better choice. I thought Neu was 4 poles:oops:

Thanks TexasSP for that link. Very useful indeed.

The 11,14,15 and 22 series motors all have 12 slot stators and 4 pole rotors. Have you thought about converting to single speed? I'm using a 3906 tranny converted to single speed using UE idler and gorillamaxx single speed conversion. So far, it has held up to the power of the 1515 1Y motor on 6S. I'm also using a strobe slipper with 51T spur on 20T pinion (both Mod 1). My diffs are UE 8 spyders on GA bulkheads.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture079.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture082.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture105.jpg

NIce truck George:yes:. Yes, I'm ordering that Gorillamaxx single speed convertion and a single motor mount. I have a set of Ti gears and idler I bought from some wanker of ebay, told me it was new, came with lots of dirt and oil. I missed out on the bid for the strobe slipper. Already got the RRP slipper. I'm having problems with trying to put 3.3 CVDs with RPM Revo alxe carriers, Flextek Ti arms with FLM hybrids UE spyder 8 diff together. 3.3 CVD's ball ends are 9mm OD and UE diff cups are 8mm ID, also the shafts are too short. Someone here said UE CVDs are longer, but I'm trying to figure out some other way of doing it, extending my CVDs. I'm also getting the 1/8 diff output shaft from Mike. Hopefully with those and the cups that came with the CVDs will bring it out further. Supermaxx Shock mounts and FLM hybrids don't mix well. Have to file quite a bit on the shock mounts to fit. Will post some photos tomorrow.

Those aren't actually Ti gears, they're made out of hardened steel. I'm using a set for half a year without any complaints.

The UE 8mm cup is installed on the diff for the centers. I don't quite understand when you said 3.3 cvds have a 9mm OD. Are you talking about the center shafts or the axle (diff to knuckle) shafts?

Pictures will definitely help :intello:.


By the way, I'd rather have a stock motor mount than a single motor mount. The additional surface area of the single motor mount acts as a heat sink and helps dissipate the heat from the motor.

Strange, yet obvious, easily overlooked, and true. I found that out for myself- the custom mount I made was really rather warm after a good run, so it one was to maybe stick a custom made moutn with cooling fins and extra surface area, it wouldnt be a bad thing....

I meant to say, " the additional surface area of the stock motor mount helps in dissipating the heat from the motor".

George, here a few pictures of what I meant about CVD's ball ends not matching up. Inner Diameter(ID) of the UE Spyder8 diff cups are nearly 8mm, Outer Diameter(OD) of the 3.3 CVDs are almost 9mm. Diffs to knuckle shafts.

Also, bearings arrived, more than I probably ever need.

Getter Robo, I thought high carbon or high strenght steel are attracted to magnets? these doesn't. I could be wrong.

Finally got the shock mounts to fit onto the FLM hybrid bulks. Good to have a Dremel, also pictures of what I've done so far.

Damn, you couldnt account for a bit of bad luck like that, but a dremel is a wonderful thing to own :yes:

Is it just me, or do trucks like this look better without the wheels on? Looks great so far.

GorillaMaxx to come.
 

Well guys. Just an update on what i've got so far. Looks like Neil's truck. Well, I really liked his. What was I thinking when I plan to build this??.. one word..SPEED. (for an E-maxx that is).

Doesnt look anything like mine, lol. Has more in common with JohnyMaxxima's 70mph truck, especially with the flextek, CF chassis and phaltlines. What swaybar kit is that, looks interesting?..

any ideas where i can get some of these gears from i have one set that i got off ebay but i have another transmision i need to make bullet proof

If our old 'friend' isnt selling any on ebay at the moment, then RC4WD.com sell a full set of aluminum gears for about $70 I think, they should be pretty solid. You could always use the RCM steel idlers with those alloy gears to be 100% certain the tranny is solid.

thanks for the link mate so are you on this side of the pond (sunny england)
so what projects are you working on at the moment

i have a gmaxx revo but it just doesnt seem strong enough for my style of driving so im in the process of of building my bl lst2 with the emaxx transmision
might get rid of the revo soon ill c how things go

Those swaybars are from www.eproracing.com or goodsgood ebaystore. The set originally is for standard maxx arms. I just use rod ends to link up. I like it due to the Serpent style adjustable hardness.

Cool, might take a closer look at them.

lind5- just slowly tweaking away at the Gmaxx as per usual, waiting for my new hacker clone motor to arrive, and some new tyres etc.