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Modified Tekin R1Pro
Modified Tekin R1Pro in pictures:
parts for mods: http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=177251 and final looks: http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=177252 http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=177253 http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=177255 First unit was done for Mike. Second under construction for Jeff (jhautz). Third unit would be available for sale :) Later built-in support for capacitor and cooling fins (if necessary) are coming with anodization and Logo's... There is a plan to work together with Teamtekin and Mike (RC-Monster). |
Griffin you never cease to amaze!
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after the mod what are the ratings for the R1 pro
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Interesting, any specific reason to have male connectors on the output wires instead of females? I am guessing that the micro deans is for an external bec.
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Good question on the male bullets... If that one is mine artur, I run females on the speedo and males on the motor. No biggie, I can change them myself, but in case you wanted to know.
linc.. I always use a micro deans on the BEC. Makes changing parts easier for testing different setups. Looking forwardto getting my hands on that bad boy and putting it through its paces. It was a great speedo beofre the mods, I'm hoping this lets me run with no thermal concerns any more. I had alot of suces with the little esc in its stock form, but always felt like I didnt want to push it to hard because of its small size and lack of heatsink. Wondering if leaving the solder posts uncovered would also allow them to disipate some heat like they did in ots stock form. |
Male plugs - that is what Mike had, I prefer direct solder or females. But anything can be done upon request, even bare wires.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p> Ratings would come up later after testing’s, but 100A would be no problem, i.e. with new heatsinking dumping 6W won't be a big deal. Maybe even higher currents possible...<o:p></o:p> <o:p></o:p> I do not like these long copper posts, heatsinking is not that efficient but shorting possibility quite high. I would rather solder wires directly to pcb...<o:p></o:p> I want to make capacitor leads very short and solder UBEC leads to W.S.Dean connector instead of ESC posts, this way it would be much cleaner setup. But still good as alfa-unit :) |
wow great mod!!!!:yes:clean and fit,looks like factory job!!!!this esc can handle 6cell lipo???and what is the maxx amp??
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Nice mod griffin! How much would you ask for one of these and what is the maximum safe voltage input allowed?
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Price - TBD and via PM. With current mod maximum Voltage 27V, higher TVS would clamp (short). Inside Fet's rated at 30V maximum. Jim (TeamTekin) told me that software has no problems running higher than 4S. Although with current mod not more than 27V, which puts you to 5S. |
I was running a stock unit on 5s for quite a while with at 35v cap and no issues, so I definitely say the controller handles it with no problem.
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What does this cost to do?
And man, if you anodized the alu case black, that would be one sick R1PRO, but that little thing is getting spendy, 210 for one, plus the mod, but worth it for something like a buggy |
Wow, hmmmmm... This would really be a nice ESC to have.
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Nice mod. I wonder if the one you put up for sale a few days back has the same mod. If so too bad I didnt bought it right away when we were talking....
Anodized balck now that's monster looking ESC |
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Impressive. How does this compare to your MM's you mod? Are these better? If so...in what way? Again impressive work.
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From my viewpoint, before mods: MM cons: -Incorrect caps for above 4S (fixed with Mod) -Poor heatsinking, especially first gen. pcb. (Improved with Mod) -software handicap above 3S (LiPo cutoff can be sacrificed to make it operational) -poor enclosure design, come loose very quick, i.e. improper for ESC mounting. (Not addressed yet) MM pros: -great foot print -nice programming via USB -very smooth with latest firmware -30 fet's total with 24 top level, i.e. with heatsink Tekin cons: -no built in Caps, but cap provided, below 4S operation (Modded one allows 6S operation) - poor heatsinking, heatsink missing (Improved dramatically with heatsink) Tekin pros: -very nice foot print -great enclosure design -native software support above 3-4S LiPo -haven't checked Tekin's Hotwire interface, yet -48 fet's total, none Common cons and pros are omitted. In theory Tekin ESC, having 48 fets (but dynamic losses come to play later), doesn't need heatsink for currents below 50A @ 4S LiPo maximum, but with proper heatsinking becoming very capable ESC with smallest foot print. While MM in stock form can be good for similar performance, while with the mod1 can get close to current capacity of Modified Tekin R1Pro. Both have Linear BEC's, so both need UBEC (or separate receiver pack) above 3S LiPo, meaning red wire need to be pulled out and isolated. Price wise MM is the winner, but which one is better? I am not sure, I like them both. |
Thanks Artur for the info and all of your hard work in giving us lucky folk the ability to put an even bigger smile on our faces...:mdr:
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Hey, you drove Tekin R1Pro hard... |
I'd say...looks like he had some fun tho...
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Actually... I had the capacitor lead break on me and didnt realize it. The esc overheated pretty darn fast runnnig without a cap. But... to the little guys credit, as soon as I put a new cap on it it was running good as new. This time I put a short section of flexible wire beween the cap and the sloder posts. The rigid wire on the cap must have broke from the vibratrion. I had it tied down, but it must not have been enough to prevent a little flex in the wires and it allowed them to fracture over time.
Other than that, it actually ran fairly cool on the meduim to mild setup that I run for the track. I did notice the plastic case got a bit warped after the capacitor incident. It does look rather wonky in the picture. lol |
Hey Jeff,
Can I reset ESC to factory default for testing? It is blinking 1,3,5 LED on me, I am assuming custom voltage cut-off. I do not have hotwire at hand, it is coming from tower any day now, but I would like to finish your ESC and ship it tomorrow. http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=178525 http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=178526 http://forum.rcdesign.ru/index.php?a...ntry&id=178527 |
Looks like a pro job to me...
If I had the money i would have bought the one on sale... :whistle: Great job Artur |
Certainly. Set it however you want for testing. I'll set it with the hotwire before running it.
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How far can the R1 pro controller be pushed? does it handle 5S?
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I ran it for months on 5s in its stock form. It takes it easily. I know that Jim from Tekin even said it would probably take 6s. It has 30v components inside. But I personally havent tested it. With Arturs mod to it its now limited to 5s becasue he used a 27v component on it. But 5s is plenty for me. In stock form it ran my buggy with 5s and a Hacker 10xl geared for 38-40 mph or so without even breaking a sweat on the track.
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What is the Tekin R1 Pro's amperage rating?:whistle:
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I will assume that stock ratings based on 26A per Fet @ 1sq-in pad with 1oz copper. Modifications inside, extend current handling and power ratings, but do not overestimate pcb traces current capacity. |
Thanks for the quick response.
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Hmm, looks like the upcomming MambaMaxPro will have some stiff competition. I wonder if castle would consider an aluminum case (of half case even) to aid strength and cooling some how (link it to the main heatsink on the FETS somehow)...
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Hey guys. Just wanted to post an update on the R1Pro that GriffinRU modified for me. I finally got to race it this weekend.
Here is my setup. (same setup I have been running all race season) Xray XB808 Buggy 5s 4350mah Enerland packs (for 20+ minute mains I run a 5s 5000 pack) Neu 1512/3D/S Tekin R1Pro with GriffinRU Mod. (see pictures earlier in thread) Geared 16/42 (around 38mph) NO FANS OF ANY SORT ANYWHERE ON THE BUGGY (Brian will appreciate this:mdr:) This weekend I had to run at the local indoor track (do to some crappy heavy rain we got last night that flooded the outdoor track) Its a huge track though as far as indoor tracks go. Perfect clay surface with TONS of traction so it was really good for pulling high amp spikes when getting on the throttle hard. The traction was so high that on the 2nd longest straight on the track where you had to come off of a very low speed tight corner before entering it, I punched the throttle and actually wheelied the buggy with 10K center dif fluid in it. I would say it is every bit as hard on the electronics as the outdoor track I normally run on which is a little larger, but doesn't have anywhere near the traction so you have to be a little easier on the throttle to keep control, but you get to open it up a little more. To give the new esc a fair test compared to the MMM I had been running for the last month and a half. I didn't change any of the gearing or setup I have been running most of the season. I wanted to see how it performed with a direct comparison. As a side note it was HOT in the tin roofed building the track is in. Easily over 90F with outdoor temps of 85-90 degrees the sun heated the inside of the building even hotter, so it wasn't exactly mild conditions. I gotta say, the results were really great. I pushed the buggy pretty hard in the couple hours of practice before the actual racing started. I ran a few 15+ minute practice runs and never measured more than 140-145F anywhere on the ESC. Most times it was only in the 130-140 range. That is amazing considering I was easily able to get those temps on my MMM with a fan. I was getting around 4 lights out of 7 lit for those of you who are familiar with the internal temp monitoring of the ESC. Never saw more than 4 lights no matter what I did to it. The three 5 minute qualifiers were nothing for it. Didn't even break a sweat. The 15 minute main with 4 minutes of "warm up" was where it got pushed the hardest, and coming off the track I measured the highest temps of the day with a 152. I'll take that for no fans and a tiny little ESC. I ran well and got 3rd (37 laps) only 12 seconds off of the guy in 2nd (Edumakated in his brushless RC8) and the guy who got first was by far outclassing the entire field with his skills. He beat us by multiple laps and was a far far better driver than the rest of the field. 4 and 5th place were 1-2 laps down on the 2 of us and rest of the field went down from there. We were the only electrics running so it was fun with both of us beating the field of nitros (with the exception one the one crazy good driver) Other limited testing I did was an evening bashing event where some guys run parking lot pylon racing. I had it geared up quite a bit (45-50 mph) and while it is pavement running it is constant hard hitting full throttle and hard breaking coming in to the make the turn around the cone. Very fast running out there and I have actually found it to be harder on the speed controls than normal track racing where most of the time you are not on full throttle. I didn't take any actual temp measurements with it that night, but once again it never went above 4 out of 7 lights on the ESCs internal temp monitor. Just wanted to let any of you who may be considering having this mod done that so far it is getting 2 big thumbs up from me. :great::great:I loved the R1Pro before the mod because it was a very smooth controller with the most accurate and controllable breaks of any of the escs I have run (and I have run just about everything :tongue:). The only drawback for it was the lack of a heatsink. Below you can see some pics of how I mounted it up. I used a computer heatsink I had laying around as a platform to mount it on. Just coincidentally it has some ears with mounting holes on it that perfectly aligned with 2 existing holes in the chassis and the body of the heatsink was almost exactly the same size a the R1Pro itself so it worked out rather well. I didn't use it for the heatsink as much as I used it because I am lazy and it fit so perfectly with no fabrication work required. Thanks Artur. A job well done! At this point the only suggestion I would make is to possibly make some sort of threaded holes in the bottom of the new aluminum case or maybe some small ears with screw holes that could be used to securely mount it. If this thing were able to be screwed down to a flat aluminum chassis with some thermal compound between it and the chassis it would run even cooler. At this point I am not even going to touch anything. I am going to just leave it all alone and in 2 weeks when my next race is (hopefully back at the outdoor track) I'll give you guys another update. If all continues to go well with it in the buggy maybe I'll toss it in the truggy for a day of racing just to see what it really can handle. But for now, the little guy has found a home in the Xray 808 for the forseeable future. Great racing ESC for 1/8 buggy thats for sure. http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...8/CIMG3350.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...8/CIMG3347.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...8/CIMG3351.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...8/CIMG3353.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...8/CIMG3356.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...8/CIMG3358.jpg |
sweet review. when can i buy one :D
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thats a pretty awesome report, how does that 1512 3d run on 5s, what were the temps on it only geared for 38mph? im running a 10xl and im having temp problems in the long mains.
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the 1512/3D was 161 at the end of the main. 38mph is plenty of speed for all but the biggest tracks. More just wastes battery IMO
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Nice review, sounds like you had plenty of fun. Not bad temps since it was a 3S ESC and you were running 5S
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yea i was geared for 43 on the 10xl but the temps got hotter when i geared down to 38 We have (2) 125' straights one on the back side with two WOT jumps and then the front stretch.
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Nice mounting plate....good to hear R1Pro is proving it self even on 5S....
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Just to back JHautz up, that little Tekin bugger worked very well all day. We took temps pretty religiously all day and the temps he is reporting were on point. As a comparison, I was running a MMM with No Fan and the top of the case cut off with plenty of air flow into the body. Neu 1512 2.5d with a 4s 5000 running 20/46 (about 39 mph tops). I was getting temps up to 160-170 pretty consistently through the qualifiers and practice. After the 15 minute main I pulled the car off the track and the MMM was 195 degrees.
Very impressed with how that Tekin performed. |
This thread should really be moved to the Tekin forum so it can be found. If a mod gets a chance and agrees that would be great...
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O yea... Almost forgot. Another thing I noticed was the new aluminum case on the modified R1Pro was almost the same temp as the solder posts within a few degrees. The solder posts used to be the hot spot on the esc when measuring temps so the heat sinking job you did on this thing is really working well Artur.
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