Maxx1: She alive!!
 

Well after being on hold for a while my GMAXX build finally came to life..

I made some check last night with the MM power by 5S2P (A123) and it armed even with LVC set to 10.5. Currently just need to glue the tires and will make few runs for it..to bad I dont have a video cam :lol:

Here some pics

PS forgive me for the wiring its a mess :whistle:

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/1115/dsc3939uq2.jpg

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/1025/dsc3941ti6.jpg

specs can be seen on the link on my sig

Any suggestions on the MM setting will be appreciate also

Thanks for looking

Looks great..:yes: Those tires look HUGE on that truck. Glad that your mm armed on 5s. I haven't tried to arm mine yet as I am waiting for a new charger to arrive. Good luck!:mdr:

Correction on that its a 5S2P A123 cells...My bad..

Nice, those photos are really sharp compared to alot of mine, you must have a good camera. Thats alot of toe-in on the rear wheels though, might want a little less, especially with those bigjoes.

Wish Mike would make more slipperential trannies...

Thanks Neil, photos looks crap just took them on a hurry but it was taken by a SLR (my other hobby)

Anyway, I just made a 15-20min bashing and I never though the MM could push this 13lbs truck enough to wheelie for 20feet (that all the space I have...for now). I also need to change my restraint on those battery..after my maxx feel on a stiff hill those battery flow all over the place... :surprised:

Temps seems good I can still hold the motor and ESC heat sink..battery are not close to warm...Im yet to buy a temp gun

The dace needs some thread locks one got loose..good thing I saw it on time..

And for the gluing I need to do it over again on the front wheel it was ripped opened.. :lol:

Those Traxxas adjustable wheelie bars are good, I just it to the lowest possible to prevent to much wheelie..

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/47/dsc3943fw1.jpg

For the toe in i think its too much but once the battery is in place it really sags a lot...I need an 8th scale buggy shocks...this bigbore with stiff spring cant handle the truck :surprised:

So far Im impress with this setup...Sliperential seems to be doing great job...hope the new version comes out soon

Sorry for the long post

That looks sweet, top job. Tyres must of cost abit

Thanks...I got tires from Mike i think about 30bucks 1 wheel/tire or less (that was a year ago)

Well I recharge the battery and fixed the tires....This A123 are sweet... I made a solid 30mins mostly WOT and the pack still have enough juice to do wheelie on demand...too bad I had to stop due to visibility and its getting harder to avoid trees and kids following my truck..

No damage this time...thou the motor is a bit hot but can still touch it same with the ESC...battery are warm..

I will definitely do a similar setup on my E-revo, unless MMM will arrive early :whistle: ...just sad that I cant find available Neu 1515/1Y nor the cheap Medusa (as a temp motor) :diablo:

Nice build TruckBsher..:party: Dam that thing is clean in the pictures above, are those tires acutely bigger than Neil’s (?).. :neutral:

Looking forward to the Video.. :yes:

Have a great one..

That is a nice truck!! How long ago did you get the slipperential? Did you get it from Mike, or second hand from somewhere?

Thanks Shaun, Tires are 6.4" x 4.2" not sure what Neil was using..for the video, it will have to wait not only i cant find a video..I'm still waiting for a newly ordered 6S2P A123 and Medusa motor...The current motor has been transfered to my E-Revo which ended up in disaster but thats a different story..

Anyway, I should get them in a week or two and let this baby start running...maybe my MMM arrive as well :whistle:

Jordan, the slipperential was from Mike, I bought it a year ago not sure if he still make it but I know he is making a new one

To all Americans enjoy your 4th of July :party::party::party:

Update:

Since my E-Revo is undergoing transformation, I borrowed the MM and put it on my EMAXX. I have yet to test the Tekno Neu 1515/2.5d, after this test run I now know why guys say that this incomparable to other motors. Motor was never hot like the previous motors I've tried. You really got what you paid for. Great motor...:yipi:

Tekno Neu 1515/2.5d
Mamba Max
36/22 gearing
6S2P A123

This video was taken after 15mins of playing around and getting used to the motor. Acceleration is still there and wheelie on demand. Total runtime was 30-35 mins but I had to stop because the pin on the CVD drive cup decided to pop and got lost. You might now see the true power of the motor because I can only do WOT for 1-2sec otherwise I'll hit the edges. My testing area is pretty small for this beast. Motor 130-140deg, ESC 150deg Battery are just warm.

<embed id="VideoPlayback" style="width:400px;height:326px" allowFullScreen="true" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=8037112417122146241&hl=en&f s=true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"> </embed>

PS: forgive me for the poor video. It was only shot by my cellphone. Not to mention that my skills on video editing sucks. :neutral:

Heh, I have a nice large testing area, but its always filled with humanoid obstacles. Those temps are pretty good too, and plenty of runtime from those batts.

Excuse me Truck, do you mean Fahrenheit or Celsius deg?

I know what you mean... There is a football field near my place but you can only play around 11AM-2PM the there are no one playing/walking/biking/jogging etc. but the sad part is that ambient temps are 80-90deg. :oh:

For the temp I guess it due to the fact that I cant run continues WOT for more than 2 sec. Most of my bash includes hill climbs also this one are just flats.

Guys here at RCM usually use Fahrenheit :yes:

Nice looking truck you got there!!!! Man, those tires are huuuggggeeee!!

Thanks George....They are really big and I like them...

BTW, I lose that pin hold the axle on my MIP CVD. THis left alot of marks on the axle carrier but its ok. ANyway. I was think whether to get a rebuild kit for the CVD or buy a different set. Any suggestions??

Traxxas cvds have a nice ring that holds in the pin, or there are some cvds by RCBest on ebay that look nice and have reportedly performed well. I wonder if a simple zip-tie would hold in the pins on your MIP cvds?..

The way I remember MIP is that its being held by a screw like those of the pinion gear to motor shaft...not sure why they come undone....

I saw the RCBEST cvds just havent heard much of them I guess...but I think I might look into it

Nice Video TB.. :intello: I was shocked it came out that good on your cell, the truck looks like it has power to spare.. :yes:

Quick question for you, did you balance your tires (?) they look really straight on the Vid and I was just wondering how you got them so true (?)

Have a great one and I hope you enjoy your baby..

Thanks Shaun, this Neu motors are really awesome as well as the A123 packs I got.

I didn't expect anyone to notice that about the tires.. :whistle:

Well, its a long story..first that spot was actually almost a mile away from my place not to mention half of it is climbing stairs and Im only pulling my truck on a trolley. The first time I hit the trigger (without knowing the power of the motor :whistle: ) half and pulled it WOT bang....the CVD at the right rear was bent..it slipped out and stuck between upper arms and drive cup. Not sure how it happened..I walked a mile and Im not walking back without enjoying my truck...with a few bending skills I manage to put it back without removing anything but I noticed that when the arms is at the lowest position the ballhead of the CVD sits 1-2mm almost about to pop out. I pulled a Velcro strap and pulled both arms so they sit level and limit the downward travel so the ballhead sits farther inside the drive cup....this is similar to how joelings savage had the wires on the suspension arms...it held pretty well though I only had a few small jumps but at least I enjoyed the 30min run :yipi:

I might be doing something permanent once I find a high tension cable like the ones used for climbing..(smaller dia of course)..

Truck is currently out of commission due to the lost pin of the CVD (not because it was bent :lol: )..might just get the rebuilt kit for MIP...

Jeff

Yup, you need suspension limiters such as these:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture114.jpg

So far, I never had any suspension problems (knock on wood).

Yup, that's how I did it but with a velcro strap :rofl: (temporarily of course)

Thanks for sharing George

Finally mounted the MGM 16025 (ver 6.22) on this truck and I must say MGM are equally smooth as the MMM even a slow speed. I pretty much enjoyed it. However I made a mistake, for some reason the break was not enabled or i wasnt able to set it properly so I ended up cutting my test in about 15-20mins...temps were low 112degF on ESC 110degF(max) on motor and 95degF on batts...

Hope the weather will remain sunny so I can do more test...

if your driveshafts fall out at full suspension extension limiter straps are like a band aid, it covers the sore spot, but it doesn't fix it. If you turn in the pivot balls (equally, 1 turn on top=1 turn on bottom, otherwise you change camber) the driveshaft will sit farther in the cup. Just flex the suspension as you adjust so you don't go in too far, and you'll have to re-adjust the turnbuckles when you are done.

Thanks for the suggestion although that was an issue about a few months ago :intello:

Oh and the issue is not that the pivot balls fall off easily but it sits at the end of the drive cups. A sudden twisting or bending on the shaft due to extreme acceleration will cause it to shorten the length causing it to come out. Limiting the shock travel did a lot and I havent found any other issue except my the ESC died.

Again thanks for the input I will consider it next time I rebuild this truck.. :yes:

The pivot ball is located inside the steering knuckle, and attaches the knuckles to the a-arms. Its not that the pivot balls fall out. The problems you were experiencing indicate that the pivot balls were never set correctly. Tightening them brings the knuckle closer to the arms, which in turn pushes the driveshaft farther into the cup, allowing full suspension, and no need for limiting straps. Hope this helps out...... for your next build?!:lol:

If limiting the shock travel is the only fix, then get rid of the velcro. Instead just put a piece of fuel tubing under the piston in the shock. If you want the truck to be lowered 2 cm, then use a 2 cm piece of fuel tubing, or a 3 cm for a 3 cm drop, and so on. It will work much better because outside objects will never touch it or damage it.

Really guys thanks for the help but this issue with limiting the travel was an old story and already fixed...

@Silver, that velcro was a temporary solution since I was out on the field and that is the only thing I have... your fuel tubing idea is good I will also look into that probably in other builds....

Thanks again :yes: