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My BL muggy conv.
after many nitro rebuilds and cleanups, I've finally decided to make my muggy brushless. I am planning on a setup a little different from what would normally be expected, and I'm doing it this way so that i can have a servo controling the breaks instead of putting all of the extra heat and stress on the brushless system. I'm going to get the The Mamba Monster 2200kV combo which won't be available until late august which gives you an idea of when I'll be done my conversion. I'm planning on putting the motor where the fuel tank used to be and the battery where the engine used to be and the ESC where the radio box was. I know it's a tight squeeze putting the motor and the battery on the same side, and i know that it will offset the weight by alot, but I like it better than attempting to mount the brake servo somewhere else, and if i don't like the weight offset i can always change it.
I ordered the RC-Monster muggy electric motor mount (hopefully i'll get it tommorow) and I'm putting it in opposite of how it's designed to be put in. But first, the spur gear needs to be in backwards. It took alot of drilling and dremel work, but it finally spins freely: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5079.jpg |
Nice conversion. I'll watch it closely.
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looking good
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well, on my dishwasher salary (i'm 14) this conversion isn't gonna go to fast lol, but the elec. motor mount is coming soon and i'll post a picture when i get it installed.
anyway, here's a video from when it was nitro: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NJvmXTOMA8 |
Looking good, hope that when it is finished it will be the right way up instead of the photo of your avatar
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I looked at going to the front with the motor in my Muggy, but it doesn't leave much room for motor length. The castle motor may fit if the wires come out the side (which I think they do).
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yeah! im 16 and i dont have a job:D
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It leaves about 85mm (3 3/8") for the motor and 155mm (6") for the battery, and i don't know the dimensions for the Mamba Monster motor, but 85mm is plenty for the Tekno-RC Neu edition 2200kV motor
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Truck is looking good so far! :yes: I'll be watching the progress of this build as well. Just thought I'd let you know that if you plan on back-ordering the MMM combo, then it is much cheaper at B-P-P that at Horizon Hobbies...
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Motor is built to neu 1515 specs so I imagine it would be the pretty close if not exactly the same.
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Edit: oh, never mind, it's b-p-p.com lol... I think I'll get it there when I have the money (possibly next week), buy it and buy the other parts i need for the conversion and then just wait for it to come, then i won't have to keep next weeks paycheck in an envelope for 4 weeks (that could be tempting, i get paid every other week) |
the motor mount didn't come today:no:... shoulda got ups, if i had known it was coming from southern NY i woulda got ground cuz i'm in eastern PA.
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I'll be watching the progress also. Looks good so far.
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thanks:mdr:
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u got any stand-in motors while you wait for the MMM combo?
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no, I don't have any motors, i have a speed-T and it's Xcelorin system came bad, so I'm going to get a new combo for that, but that's a little to small to put in a muggy, and i don't have any brushed ones either, I'm not sure what you mean by stand in, but I don't have any motors
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I got the RC-Monster Muggy Electric Motor Mount today
I got the RC-Monster Muggy Electric Motor Mount today, I also got Acer Racing's ceramic nitride diff balls for my Speed-T. Here's a ton of pics:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5099.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5100.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5102.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5103.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5106.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5108.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5110.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCN5112.jpg My steering servo is in my Speed-T, I always keep the best servos in the working cars:mdr:, I have a JR Z9100T |
lookin good, why mech brakes?
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to spare the electric system from the extra stress and heat produced by electric braking, kaz the minotaur recommended it
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I found a way that i can better balance the weight and still use mechanical breaks. The reason that i was going to mount the motor and battery on the same side was so that i could use mechanical breaks without having to find a separate mount for the break servo, but now I found a way to mount the break servo on the other side onto a good foundation, now if I could just find my extra 2 servo trays that I got because I needed stand offs, I could do it and I could post some pictures. Once I find it I will post new pictures.
My new plan is to put the motor and ESC where the radio box was, and the battery where the engine used to be, and the brake servo where the fuel tank used to be. |
sounds like a plan :D
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Looking good young fella. Keep up the good work.
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Just a thought, but it will handle and jump better with the battery farther forward on the chassis. If you could put the battery in the fuel tank location and the brake servo in the back, or behind the center diff sideways next to the rear brace, it will most likely be better.
I experimented quite a bit with battery placement, and further forwards always made the trucks steer better, and jump more level. Rear battery placement caused nose up jumping, and weak steering when on power due to weight distribution. |
wow, that's something good to know, because of the spur gear the only place really to mount the battery is where the engine used to be, if i tried to put the servo where the engine used to be, i wouldn't be able to put it back very far because of the spur gear, and the battery wouldn't fit in the front. but that is a very good point, and i think that most of my weight will be more located towards the back.
anybody know about a tool for making wholes suit flat head screws? I stink at making countersunk wholes in the chassis, my flathead screws always stick out a little and i don't want them to break off. |
or put the motor where the raidio box was, then put the battery where the nitro was
um i beleive u need a mill to slot the chassis |
a mill as in a cnc machine? all of my drill bits aren't slanted enough to make the whole slanted enough to flush the head of the screw with the chassis, but i found one that was slanted enough, and used that and another and the head is pretty much flush. I'm happy i'll post some pics soon.
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you can buy countersinking bits
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where?
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i got mine at my local auto parts store
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Hardware store should have countersink bits.
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Someone here made a mount that placed the brake servo directly behind the center diff. He used a small high torque servo.
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Done the servo mount!
Done the servo mount!
I did this without a countersunk bit: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/Muggy103.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/Muggy093.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/Muggy098.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/Muggy094.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/Muggy102.jpg |
With the brake servo where the fuel tank used to be, and the motor where the radio box used to be and the battery where the engine used to be, not only will I have better weight balance, but i also have 164mm of space for the battery! I used to have 140mm! plus the protek battery is only 134mm long!
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Good work on that servo mount too young fella, it looks very profesh.............from the top.:whistle::wink: Don't worry about the bottom as nobody's going to see it at 50mph & it'll get scratched to the crapper anyway.:tongue: |
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I backordered the Mamba Monster 2200kV combo today! :party::yipi::mdr:
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You could actually have fit a NEU 1521 on there, but that would be so unbelievably powerfull that it might not be driveable.
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And cut up that CF tray!
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I really like the CF tray, that's what drove me to find my extra aluminum ones:mdr:
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