MM on 5s?
 

Ok im wondering what the max rating on the MM is and if its capable of 5 or 6s at all? Is there a mod that makes this possible. I have a newer controller and i am running on 4s with a CCBEC.

you might get lucky with 5s, i did, but 6s is a NO-NO

5s a123, not 5s lipo... u can try but i wouldnt bother imo. 6s is 2x what they were originally designed to run on...not a good idea unless you like castle customer service and the post office. both of which i try to avoid! (cause it means ive broken it!)

Thats what i thought, man i hate waiting on things (MMM) what to do now.......

my mm runs fine on 5s :D

At the moment three of the TeknoRC V3 8ight test truggies and one 8ight buggy are running 6S lipos through a Mamba Max with good success. No mods with the exception of adding a fan. Two race programs and a few practice nights and so far no issues. The only thing to be careful of is to monitor run times as there is no LVC enabled when running 6S. The intent is to get as much experience with different motor/battery combinations and hopefully the controller technology will eventually catch up.

i dont get how when the components are rated for 25v

riceman how is this possible. i would like to see some eagle tree data or videos... i dont believe you at the moment sorry!

the capacitors are rated @ 25v... so 4.2x6 = 25.2, and when you brake etc. it creates spikes.... just seems unplausible.

^^ thats what im saying :D, unless they are running a clutch and mech brakes

I run for Tekno, I run 6s through my MM in my Losi 8T. The internal components are capable of 26v, the caps are 25v. Yes, we are pushing the caps, but the internals are fine. Check out Castles older boat controllers like the barracuda, same as the MM but with 35v caps, they clearly say 6s is ok as long as you disconnect the internal BEC. If you want video check out the one riceman posted. The old chevy truck is me running above setup with a Medusa 60mm 1300kv motor, the green truck is running a MM, 6s, 1515 3D.
Yes, we are running clutches and mechanical brakes. Braking and gassing it hard create amp spike, not voltage spikes. Voltage will drop when you gas it hard.
If you want to run 6s turn the voltage cutoff off, and put the arming time to the lowest, and make sure you run a motor that should be run on 6s, not a 1515 1Y for example. something between 1300kv and 1500kv and you'll be fine. If you're really worried about the caps, send it to griffinru, he'll fix you up.

Forgot the video.

braking spikes are voltage...regen braking
the clutch gets rid of that though :D

No need to be sorry. I wouldn't have believed it either if I didn't try it myself. As Matthew already pointed out I posted some video of a race qualifier with two of the three Tekno vehicles I mentioned. The orange car featured is not one of them. It's running 6S but with a Monster Max. The third one I was referring to is mine running 6S on a Mamba Max but I was not racing that day. Luckily I was able to show up for a little bit to take the video. If Eagle Tree helps, here is some data I collected when I first put my motor battery combo together. Tekno Neu edition 1515 3D, Zippy 6S 5000Mah lipo and Mamba Max. The first half of the graph is simulated race - repeated acceleration and braking. The second half of the graph are WOT runs.

Again, as Matthew stated, we are all running clutches and mechanical brakes. The only spikes you see on the chart are from acceleration. No braking spikes. So while it may seem "unplausible" - it's definitely not impossible. And to reiterate, I originally posted to respond to mriccucci's original question of whether the MM was capable of 6S.

I stand corrected :D :slap:

Hi, Mike's working on my MP-6 right now-installing a Rimfire 42-60-600 in place of the center diff. I've got a MM. Could I run 6s A123? Thanks, Don

no, you will have braking spikes, i just sold a Direct drive 1`/8 scale its will might run hot, mine did on 5s lipo


I have a big 50-55 outrunner if u need it

Mike's already got the 42-60-600 and he's mounting it in the MP-6-but thanks anyway. I guess I'll have to run it 5s A123. Don

is he machining a mount and all for it?

Yes, I just didn't have the wherewithall to deal with it. I wanted it done right and I know Mike will do just that. He is mounting it at both ends( like the diff it replaces) so it will have plenty of support. How hot did yours run? I hope I don't have to many heat issues. Don

after 40 minutes of wot, it was about 185 esc was up there too

O boy! Looks like I'll have my work cut out for me. Don

haha your gonna love the power... mine would shred tires with 100% punch control

While, Patrick trying to convience the rest of the world that his esc wasn't design for 5-6S LiPo, I will say that this is only partially true.

If you follow my links, you can find out that you can use ESC with 5S and 6S as long as you disable LiPo cutoff voltage and to make it more reliable you need to switch capacitors and add external component to power input, which clamps voltage to safe level.

I am typing all this because I do not see any chance of working together with Patrick (or CC in this respect) to get benefits of such a nice ESC. He just want to make money, while simple solutions and great ESC already here - he just need to look around...

Damn to change couple resistors and let people to use ESC with 5-6S Lipo freely, I cannot see why he just cannot do that...

so how do we safely use the mm with no lipo protection ? is there 5s and 6s lipo savers out there?

you use the custom lipo cutoff feature on the mm, 15.2v for 5s and 18.3 on 6s

sweet cheers , im going to go try blow something up this week , build a 5s pack and try it out , thanks b/l boi

no prob :D

hey so if the MM has voltage cut-off set in the software to accept 15-18v then why have CC only rated the unit for 3s max , surely they can call this a 5s controller as alot of people have been running with success. ( 6s might be pushing the limits but obviously it is achievable )

also if they have made such a awesome MM controller that seems to run reasonably reliable on 4s-5s even sometimes 6s , obviously they have the software to support and only really requires some upgrades in some internal components why is it taking nearly a year to come out with a monster mamba

Ps i worked out the voltage cutoff and gave the 1515 1y / 5s MM a go . but only a few runs up and down the street ( its been raining way too much to do any more testing)
seems to handle ok . hope this gives some longer runtimes and bit more power

You have to look at the average RC car driver and compare him/her to an average helicopter/airplane/boat flyer/driver. Usually, the boat helo crowd are more experienced, older, and not always after a grin inducing high speed run. They know what the limits of their setup really are, match battery and motor combos correctly, and expect to get what they pay for. Us car guys, however, are a little different. There are tons of new, inexperienced drivers, a lot pay hobby shops to fix their gear for them, tune their engines, and are not really interested in why something's not working right, just that it should because they spent a grand on it. Does the average car driver know how to install a BEC, let alone know what one is? Does the average car driver take the time to figure out what motor can work with their controller and what battery they should run? The fact is, the average car driver does not. Castle knows this. They don't want to create extra work for their customer support or repair teams so they put guidelines, such as 3s limits, motor kv limits, etc. To create a car controller for car guys they had to make it over robust because people will run a 1515 1.5D on 6s, even though that's a crazy setup, people do it. Hence the MMM, 200 amp capable and a built in 6s BEC.
If Castle called the MM a 5s capable controller their repair rate would skyrocket. Most people would miss the whole w/o internal BEC asterisk. And while the MM does work on 6s you can't forget that we are talking about racing setups. 40mph max. so a 6s battery but with a 1300kv motor. 5s with 1700kv. 4s with 2000kv.
By the way, running the 1515 1Y on 5s through the MM is a little much. That's a lot of amps and voltage at the same time. You should gear down to reduce heat and you might get some runtime advantage, but not a whole lot. The 2.5D is a better match for 5s.

6S is way beyond spec for MM - most of the components are only rated for 25v...

The caps are rated for 25v, the internals are 26v. They use a lot of the same stuff in their boat controllers, but those have 35v caps.

Exactly your forgetting voltage spikes and back EMF - You should be targetting a min of 25% headroom on the components which is why 6s kit uses 35v components.

The MM was truely rated I think for 4s (with 4600) but with the bec disabled.

Yes, I remember that the MM was rated at 4s w/4600kv motors.