my bl 18t!
 

editing this thread because i figured out what was wrong!!

here are some pics of my 18t

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/CIMG1499.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/CIMG1497.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/CIMG1500.jpg

used to be bl-is-futures but recently i bought it off him:intello:

running a lehner 1020 along with the quark 33 and a 2s lipo.

currently right now i need to order a couple parts before i get it running the way i want it to!
- airtronics servo
- mini spektrum
- delrin spur. (aluminum is too loud for me..)

once i order those things it should be an awsome little truck.

thanks!

I'm looking too!! Apparently S&T has shut down their US website. Anyone know where a pdf on the instructions can be found??

I have the booklet here. Is it the pro car version or one of the others.

nice sunny! thanks alot!

i got it to work.

ill post up some pics of my setup later.

Cool! Glad to be of help. Let's see some photos/videos quick.

vids.... not yet. need to order some things before i will take it out for a good test run.

all that matters right now is that the quark lehner combo worked!


EDIT. pics at top

nice 18! its got a baby lehner in it :D

Maybe it will grow to be a 1920, 1930, 1940, and then 1950? :na::mdr:

That thing should have some serious power with the little lehner in it!

Very NICE!

I am putting a Neu 1110 in my detta to run on 4s. Think how it would be in an 18t...

It is very pretty

ya i plan to raise it to a 1950 by the end of summer:party:

thanks for the compliments guys!!!

ill try and get some videos for you guys asap!

I had a 1020/ 13t (5600kv) in a MLST, plenty of power to burn center diffs. It never run hot, even in a heavy (by mini standards) truck.

I had a 1107/2y (3400kv) in mt mini quake se, wicked on 3s. Way too much power, I think an 1105 would be better in a mini

The thing with this motor is that I can run it on 2s to just bash. If I want to do some speed runs or need some more while racing, I can run it on 4s. I am planning on getting the 1110 2.5D, which is 3700kv. Performance should be a little more then the ammo 3900 on 2s. Then I put it on 4s and BAM! hehe

1105/2y is all you need in a Rc18 especially on 4s

I wouldn't feel safe running that motor on 4s. 3s would be fine, but 4 is too much. I like to be within the safe rpm limits.:wink:

you could go with a 1105/3y (3500 kv)...that would get you around 50k

I am going to use it in my vendetta and recoil. I'll run it on 2s in the detta for just bashing etc. and 4s for speed runs in either vehicle. The 1110 2.5D is 3700kv, which will keep me in the limit. I'll get about 55,000 rpms theoretically.

Here is a video of the ammo 3900 on 2s.(in a vendetta) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ6k8bs9CWc
The Neu should be a little faster on 2s and blow it away on 4s.

What are you guys doing to your Vendettas to make the diffs last??

I've got 2 myself, buggy and ST - both running Pemax - one 33 Pro Car and other a mamba 25 and even ball diffs don't hold up that long. Is there a trick or something I've missed??

My Mini Quake se had good diffs but lately they have been slipping bad on blacktop

SHIM YOUR DIFFS

I have a stock diff in the front and ball diff in the rear and that holds up to my Neu fine. Thetoyz is coming out with steel diff gears soon if shimming them doesn't work. Do you have Duratrax Steel cvds?

EDIT: I think the diff gears are out, but out of stock. The restock date is 5.30.08, so I don't know when they will be back in stock.

well 5/30 was over 2 months ago..

Yeah... Try shooting an email to the toyz and ask them when they are coming back in stock. rj@thetoyz.com

I've got steel cvds in the rear. I know how to shim a diff, prob is what with - the only thing I've ever found in a MQ or 'Detta diff was nylon washers - the very early ones apparently had some factory shims inserted. So what are you using to shim with? Steel shims like used for bigger diffs? Where are you putting them - what is it in the diff that needs the adjustment? Is it side to side play and pinion height or just the pinion?? Both?? I've never really payed that much attention - just replace it and get back to running, too cheap, not like one of my UE 8 spyders.

See no need for steel gearsets - don't see them on the Toyz anymore anyway, so they might not be coming back. If the ss shims I have will work, then the prob's kinda solved itself. Thanks!

I don't know of any shims that will work made for RC. I just used some washers I found in a toolbox somewhere. I'll post a pic of them. That is where the shim should go. It should be about the size of the bearing. The only thing you need to do to shim your diff is put in the shim and go. While you have them out you could tighten or loosten it if you want. Good Luck! Tell me how it turns out.

Shims come in all kinds of sizes and thicknesses - if you ever need any go to McMaster-Carr and search on shim - they have them just about any way you can imagine. They are specified by OD x ID X thk - have both inch and metric. I forget what size I use for UE 6 and 8 sypder work, but I'll start there.

Where you have placed the shims basically moves the ring gear toward the pinion, so I guess thats where the slop is - the ring sits too low and mesh is poor. Cool - would be easy if you didn't have to open the diff. I'll try it on my ST where I'm still using gear diffs.

Thanks!

You don't need to open the diffs - just take off the bearing. On the gear diff you just slide off a shaft and the bearing will come off from there. With the ball diff you just need to slide off the bearing to put in the shim.

Unless you are shimming the inside of the gear diff.. yeah that is what you meant. Whoops. I put a piece of thin plastic cut to a shim shape in there. It is holding up pretty darn good (in the front).

It really depends if you are stripping the outside ring and pinion gears or the internal... Planetary? gears.

Just a note about McMaster-Carr - They have absolutely everything you would ever need to build anything you would ever need. They even have 2.5" pvc pipe so you can shoot tennis balls....

so i just placed a huge order (micro spektrum...spur gear, pinion, new servo) to hopefully finish this truck and everything should be coming in the next couple days.

what tires and rims do you think would be the best for all around bashing?

If you have a high torque motor like an ammo, medusa, or neu; you should get hpi 2.2 rally tires. They work great. That is for a vendetta though...

some updates on the 18t... nothing special just a mm esc..
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/CIMG1656.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...2/CIMG1657.jpg

the truck needs a little work to get it running clean (screw kit, set of tires, some new 3racing shocks, pair of turnbuckles) maybe a couple more small things but overall i like the truck alot.

temps are OK. after a 10 minute run i got
motor 130
esc 145
batts 110

keep in mind that its 105 outside.....

once i order the parts i need ill shoot some videos of it.

thanks!