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Looking for new Mini
Hi all,
As the titel says, I had an LRP Shark Factory Team (Vendetta ST) in mind but the CRT.5 caught my attention this week. I have been reading here but would like to ask about some things : - Is Jammin/Hong Nor the same car ? I mean quality wise (I know they are the same) - Can one only buy RTR's or also rollers ? Do the RTR's come build? - I have a MM + 5700 lying around, so I would also convert to brushless using 2cell Maxamps 6000 mah lipo's. - What do you do whit the not used parts (engine, cluctch, ...) I would sell them ? - Except for a motor mount, what else would I need ? Pinions (which) Spur (which) Spare Parts ... - Is the new CRT.5 with PBS steering already available ? - I see alot of lipo's put on their sides on the chassis. Is this the only option - Does one really need the extended chassis to put in a 1/10 scales servo? - Is the standard drive really up to brushless power ? - What about steering slop/ wheel slop ? Is it an issue like it was for example with my Mini Inferno ? - The center diff of the Mini Inferno had the issue of unloading to the front wheels. Is this also true for the CRT? Or is the power even to the front/rear? I know these are alot of questions, but any answers/advice/comments/thoughts are welcome:yes: Thanks in advance |
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The larger bore shock mod is essential - revo front - buggy front for rear |
I would get the Pro version as its the cheapest upfront and you don't have to resell stuff, plus it has the best parts on it. Its all prebuilt other than tires to mount. All the crt.5 kits now have the OFNA ext chassis. They use std servos
I have the above and as Arct1k said, I use 2100-2500 35mm wide packs. I've done 3S and 4S, but I think I'm going to go all 4S and a 2200 50mm medusa motor to get all the power and runtime I want. 3S works quite well, but too much power pushes the cells a bit. More cells, more power. Doing the much more standard 45mm packs require some creative mounting on the OFNA chassis, or the RCM chassis which is wider to lay packs flat. The truck is very tough, the diffs are 1/8th scale diffs. They are stronger than a Revos diff I can tell you. The only weak part is the servo saver, but Arct1k showed me that if you use the rear ackermann hole on the servo saver, the thing holds up. My build thread for pics No pics of the BB shock mod, but see Go-ride.com's thread. Its is essential. Click my sig vids if you want to see the .5 in action. |
Oh, btw there is a new mini Hyper ST coming out anyday. Nitrohouse said the RTR version is already for sale there, but I couldn't find it. The Pro version will be out sometime later. Its HoBao, which is also an OFNA division.
It does have PBS, but don't know too much else about it yet. Should be good, I like my Hyper ST, but I'd still wait for the pro version. I wouldn't wait on the CRT.5 PBS conversion tho unless you really really want PBS. No RCM mounts or much support for it yet tho. |
Thanks for the replies.
Why would the 5700 CC be too light and run hot. I used it in a Losi XXX-T and it did fine. Is the CRT that heavy being 1/12 scale ? Mod 1 spur gear does that mean I can't use 1/10 scale pinions ? What is a bore reducer and could you direct me to one ? Will my 2cell lipo's be sufficient to get a good speed ? I'm not yet interested in insane spead (looking for 30mph). What size rims and wheels does work for the CRT? |
You can run 2.2 buggy or truck tires / wheels - or traxxas 2.8 / proline 30's which I run mostly.
2 cell will be fine on any motor faster than 3500 Mod 1 - yes you need mod1 pinions and bore reducer - see below http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...1pinion&cat=40 http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...reducer&cat=40 CRT.5 is a fairly chunky car - metal chassis - full tripple diff - the mambas are really suitable for 2wd statdium trucks and onroad cars. |
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Thanks Art1k.
So I can use my front Losi rims on the CRT ? Since you say its a chunky/heavy car, it will probably not be suited to run indoors on a carpet track using foam tyres (if they are available). What is the standard size rim and tyre ? Could I also run it against 1/10 4wd buggy's ? Basically, I loved the size and handling of my Mini Inferno ST (but not the reliability). Now looking at this CRT I thought it would be a nice replacement and don't have to use Micro Electronics (ESC-Motor-Servo). Thats why I was looking at the LRP Shark ST (Vendatta ST) but its smaller than the Mini Inferno (1/18 vs 1/16) |
If the CC 5700 will run hot, will it help to install a cooling head with ventilator ? Or is it best to invest in a new motor. If so, which one (I don't want to spend the cash on a Neu), Medusa/Feigoa ?
Can I use the MM with my 2s2p lipo's wired parallel to obtain 14.4v or will it be to much ? |
The Feigao actually costs as much as a brand new 5700KV motor from Castle Creations. You can get one for $60 - $70. 14.4V will be way to much voltage for a 5700 motor as well...
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Jnev, what motor would you suggest. I would like to use my 2cell lipo's.
Will the 5700 run nice on the CRT with 7.4V ? I havel 2 Maxamps 8000mah, 2 6000 mah and 3 Team Orion Platinum 4800 lipo's (all 7.4v). These I would like to use without buying new batteries. So, will the CC Motor burn after a few runs or will it do ok. I should of thought of it that 14.4v would equals >80000rpm |
Check out my build in the truggy section, look for my user name. Using a Medusa 36-50-4800-5 motor and MaxAmps 6000mah packs. Very fast, drives straight, and stable. Uses 2.2 buggy rims, not sure if they normally come with 12mm hexes but they where on mine when I got it and for bashing I'm running a set of slash tires with I beleive a 15t pinion. Bore reducers and pinions are available from RC-Monster as are the Medusa motors. I would recomend getting the motor with 5mm shaft so no bore reducer is needed.
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I've been searching for your built thread, but did not really find it. Did find other threads from you.
BTW, is 235$ a good deal for a brand new CRT (+52$ shipping to Belgium) ? Do you know if there are any foam tires for this kind of car ? |
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Well, I'm going to order the CRT.5 Pro.
Will be using a MM esc with the 5700 motor (for starters) and 7.4v lipo's. I'm going to buy the following : RCM's motor mount 12T pinion (maybe also 14T ?) bore reducer to 1/8" for the CS motor heatsink wiht fan for CS motor fan for the esc RCM's battery tray/box (or what other options I have ?) Will those fans take away power from the batt. ? Do I need and external BEC ? I'm I forgetting something ? |
I received my CRT.5 Pro but I'm a bit confused.
I thought the Pro kit had the extended chassis wich allows standard 1/10 servo's ?! Or I'm I wrong about this. Either way I cannot fit my Ko2123 on it. So whats next ? I probably have to buy RCM's extended chassis ? I would also like to have the other part of the center diff mount in alu. Does Mike have this (I don't see it in the parts list) ? |
The pro kit comes w/ the short chassis.
You have three options: a) RCM extended b) Ofna extended c) BCE extended. Choose which ever fits your needs best. As for the center diff brace, you can ask mike to make one for you or get the ofna cnc center diff brace (comes in a pack of two). You can probably sell the other one to someone here. |
I called up OFNA and then sent me the extended chassis kit for free - Alternatively I think impaktrc has it on sale for $35
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I see RCM's chassis is also wider. How much wider is it compared to the stock one or compared to the Ofna extended one?
IF going for Mike's chassis (which I like alot) will the stock body fit ? There are blue springs and white springs as options. Where do the standard springs (grey) fit. Is this hard/medium ? I also have some Losi springs, which seem to fit. Anyone uses those ? |
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The grey springs are the softest and stock. What springs you need will depend a lot on how you do your conversion. With bigger batts or a heavy L motor you may need white front and blue rear. With a lighter setup then the blue front & grey rear works good. Either way you will need to go with the stiffer pistons (I liked smaller 2 hole) and some stiffer oil. I have a bunch of Losi springs too and they were a good bit softer than even the grey crt.5 spring. |
At the moment I'm working on my CRT.5 and will post some pics soon.
In the meantime could someone instruct my in the relations brushless motors/Esc/Lipo's : Kv - Amps - ESC Amps - Lipo Amps. I would like to understand all this. I know I can buy a motor based on what everyone else buys but I want to know what I'm doing. Links to some info is also welcome. Second, does anyone know of a buggy body that would fit a CRT ? Maybe with some mods. I kinda like the look of a buggy body. |
Any idea when the RCM chassis will be available again?
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1: General Info: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5115 2: Temperature monitoring: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2200 3: Some techy stuff :smile:: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14381 |
So now I'm thinking about the Ammo 3300kv.
Is it comparable or is it of less quality ? |
I ran a 2600 on 2s on my son's - He's only 5 so I didn't need it crazy fast... worked fine....
Less quality though as you'd expect $40 motor vs a $110 motor |
Since my rear diff was leaking, I decided to change the diff oil in all 3 diffs.
I'm going for 1K rear, 3K center and 3K front. When I did the center and reassembled, I could hardly move the diff when holding both ends. Is 3k too heavy or is there a problem. I reassembled it like said in the manual. |
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7K in the center is what I run, and its not that stiff. 3 shouldnt be hardly anything
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I actually run 10K in mine, and using your hands, although there is resistance, it doesn't take much to turn each side of the diff in opposite directions. I think you may have some binding issue in the diff. I'd take it apart and make sure no gears are too close to each other or twisted or anything like that.
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Well actually. As of version 2, I have a revo spec slipper, and revo spurs... Haha
But 7, to 10K is perfect for the .5 IMO |
I'll take it apart again and see whats going on.
I hope there's nothing wrong with it. |
Well I found it, didn't rebuild it correctly.
Now I still have to look at the rear diff which keeps leaking. |
Glad to hear you found the problem with the center diff. :yes:
As for the rear diff, make sure you have a gasket (I think its plastic, but not sure) on the inside of the spur gear. I accidentally threw it away a while back because I had no idea what it was. Low and behold I needed it... so digging through the trash I went to find it. :whistle: :lol: I did find it by the way. :wink: :rofl: |
I still have the gasket in place (blue coulered). I think I'm going to order a new one.
Also there is this little grub screw in the diff. I wonder if the oil is leaking through it. Any idea what to put on it jus in case. I don't thins thread lock will work with plastic. Or maybe I should run thicker oil ? |
As I'm still awaiting some stuff, I tried to fit a Hitec 5245Mg on the stock chassis.
With this servo comes an alu servo horn. But the holes are too small to fit the CRT's ball studs (as are all my plastic horns I have). What did you guys do concerning horn/ball stud ? |
i just enlarged the hole in my aluminum servo arm, its holding up just fine
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Yup, just drill the hole out, and then use a nut on the ball stud. You could be tap the servo horn. But thats to much work IMO lol
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HI all, its been a while and only today I have run the car for the first time.
Is it normal that the crt slows down really fast when going off the throttle? I doens't free roll like I'm used to with my other brushless cars. Can't see/feel any binding or resitance when I check the car. I'm not impressed with the diffs. They keep leeking and around the center diff the chassis has spray marks from the diff oil. Maybe I should order some new gaskets ? Next week I have several parts coming from Impakt (after 4 weeks of waiting - mainly for the Medusa 3300) and I'll post some pics of it. |
Do you have the drag brake enabled on the ESC? The diffs in my CRT.5 haven't leaked a drop... are you sure you assembled it correctly with all the washers, gaskets, etc?
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Since I bought the pro kit it came assembled and the rear was already leaking.
I took them apart and filled them with 1 - 3 - 3 (r-c-f) and can't see what I could have done wrong. Since I have an extended chassis coming, i'll take them apart again and check. |
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