My SLASH with a few upgrades / tweaks
 

So I got home from camping and RVing across this great nation of ours and found a nice new toy waiting for me as well as all of the parts I ordered before I took off )I love it when a plan comes together)

Parts purchased:
• CC Mamba Max combo with a 4600KV brushless motor http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar...d=CSE1805!1001
• 2 different spur gears (90 & 83T) and 2 pinion gears (16 & 19T)
• 2.2 CAC Traxxas Slash Beadlocks
http://shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?...productId=1018
• Pro-Line Flat Iron M3 2.2
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUWD6&P=7

Mod parts:
• I removed the rear shocks and installed the front shocks off an XRay XT8
• I removed the front shocks and installed some Lois 8eight front shocks
• I fab up a front mount and then installed the rear sway bar off an XRay 808 on the front
• I stripped off the chrome from the stock wheels to achieve the black rim look
• Running 3s 5400 20C lipo (Can you say fassssst!... I need to GPS it)..


Builders notes:
1. Dam I forgot how easy it is to work on a Traxxas product (it’s been a while), everything went together rather nicely.
2. I'm using a 3s 5400 20C lipo and it just hauls but! and the CC combination is working quite nicely together, so far after a total of 55 minuets of all out bashing / beatings the beans out of it!, no heat issues at all.
3. I need to remove the front swaybar and see what the difference is (?) with it the front end has little to no sway / rocking and it’s really hard to flip it on or off the dirt.
4. I love the shocks!!!!! I'm using 20 weight on the rears and 25 w in the fronts, the overall added weight is a total of 1.8 oz. (just under “2” OZ) for both fronts and rears.
5. It’s really NOT a basher (?), I took it out the local soccer field and rolled it every time I hit a wrought and it barely had any traction on the grass (?).. I'm thinking it’s mainly a open gravel, parking lot, smooth area kind of truck (??) maybe the new tires will help (?)
6. It does take a nice beating without to much damage at this point.
7. I need to find an aftermarket body for it so I can have it painted in my fighter motief, I'm thinking maybe something from the UK (?)
8. The total weight difference between the beadlocks and the stock tires is sickening, it added a total weight of


Here are some shots.. I hope you enjoy them..




http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3332.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3333.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3336.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3340.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3338.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3339.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3344.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3345.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3351.jpg

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3351.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3352.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3353.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3354.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3355.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3356.jpg





And here it is fully “4x4” modified version on 5s .. :lol::lol:



http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3358.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3359.jpg

Geez, Shaun, not another one! Looks like you found a nice home for those shocks... So how do you like 2wd?

You are crazy. Those wheels are cool. Does the slash still have different offset wheels? Triangular hexes, what is the world coming to.

Yea something else for the kids (and me) to beat on.. :lol:

The whole two wheel drive thing (Sucks).. That or I just cant drive!. But I'm liking the 4x4 a whole lot better at this point.. I do need to drive it with its new wheels and tires to see if it handles any better (?), maybe remove the front sway bar, I don’t know (?) maybe I'm expecting too much from it and just need to appreciate it for what it is (?). I just can’t get it to go straight under full throttle (?) it wants to fish tale out of controller (what up with that) and yes I do have the rear diff locked so it’s possi.

Bottom line is was cheep to buy & build and it's something new to ply with..

Maybe it’s my setup (toe-in / out, etc) (??) just not right at this point.. So any suggestions are more than welcome.. :party: would it be too much trouble to stop by and have you take a look at it and tell me whats wrong (??)

Thanks for your time travis..

P.S.
lets go racing.. when do you have the time ??.



Hay Tim..
Yes these wheels are actually made for the Slash with the same offset as the original wheels, here is the link to the rims if you want some..

http://shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc;...productId=1018

They are heavy though.. here are some side by side comparison for you.

Stock wheels and tires weigh 1.1 once.


http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3363.jpg



COC beadlocks and Pro-line tires weigh 1.13.8 once


http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3364.jpg



(for what it’s worth)
The total weight of it RTR without a body is exactly 6 lbs.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3360.jpg

How about some pics of it with the body on the truck with the Flat Irons?

cant lock the rear diff. it will never go straight if the tires break traction which on 5s they will at any speed.lol

shaun its a whole different world driving a 2wd, alot have bought slashes at the track (just to run and play in another class) and 70% of them are coming from buggies or truggies and they flat out can not drive a Stock slash much less a brushless one, you really just have to be EASY on your throttle control, but if you can drive a 2wd good it reallys helps when your driving everything else.

also unlock the rear diff, locking the rear actually makes it harder to drive, pack the hell out of that gear diff with AE diff grease and thats all you need. also switching to different tires makes a HUGE differance, but with better tires itll also tend to traction roll more so keep that sway bar on it youll need it.

How's your motor temp with the 4600? With stock gearing on mine with the 5700 my motor hit about 177 after 5-10 minutes run time with a 3S A123 pack. I'm gonna try dropping my pinion down to maybe a 13T or 14T and see what happens.

Interesting to see what temps the 4600 is pulling with the different gearing you have.

dont lock the rear diff. and no, with 2wd and that much power you can never hold it pinned and straight at the same time :) very different. More fun I think definately! more skill to drive too, ie harder to get used to. To reduce oversteer you can also put in softer rear springs, or a softer rear sway bar (if you have one). Beefing up the front bar can also help to an extent.

2wd is definitely a whole different ballpark. I started out with 2wd, and still maintain my 2wd RCs, so I'm accustomed to them. Obviously you started out with 4wd, so it's a lot more difficult to transition to 2wd from there.

I would do as others have suggested: pack the diff full of grease to decrease its open-nees, but so you still have some diff action. It could also decrease the chances of the slider shafts popping off the u-joints.

You're more than welcome to bring it in. Other guys there who actually have Slashes will also be able to provide some assistance. I'm working tomorrow (Friday) 1-8.

Racing would be cool, I know OCRC has racing on Sunday and I don't have anything planned yet.

I would like to thank everyone for there comments!. Huge HELP!!! THANKS GUYS.. :party: I’ll take out the locked diff and use the other one I’ve got, I’ll also try a lighter sway bar and maybe some suspension adjustments.. :yes:

I knew it was me / my lack of driving skills.:whip:. but if this will make a better driver on the track then I'm all for it. :oh:

Thanks again for all of your time and comments.. :yipi:

Have a great day gentlemen..

Shaun.

Wow Shaun, how many race do you attend in a week. you got 2 truggy, 2 buggy and the slash. You must have a lot of time :lol:

2WD can be PITA but you just need to get the hang of it :whistle:

Jeff

Very nice Shaun!

I'm currently running a 90 spur and a 14t P it started to get hot (motor only) after about 12minutes, at 17 minutes the motor was at 168, the ESC was at 127.. Hot but not bad and for what it worth most of the time (when it wasn’t on it lid) it was WOT..

Hay Jeff..
Yes it is a huge PITA but I'm no quitter, so keep with it and hopefully it will pay off. :yes:


Thank you Sir.. :wink:

Dang Shaun, you have a whole house full of rc's dont you! LOL, lets all go have a party at your house, you have enough rc's to keep us all entertained! LOL

Looks awesome! Love those rims!

You want to soften the rear end or stiffen the front to reduce oversteer (ie car swapping ends). I can't see a rear bar on there, so if your going to adjust the front bar make it harder, not softer.

Also I dont think its adjustable on those cars without aftermarket mods, but toe in at the back will help you a lot to track straight under power.

Ok So after listening to everybody about how I need to adjust / better my driving style and remove the locked diff, her is what I have now..

First of all YOU WERE RIGHTE!!! The unlocking of the diff made a huge difference!! I also swapped out the front sway bar for a lighter 808 bar, messed with the toe in / out and relaxed the old trigger finger.. LOL..

At that point I realized that my Pro-line Flat Irons are worthless (rock crawler tires) so I went out and got some proper tires. I'm now running bowties in the rear and Edge tires in the front. I also received my front Hyper 8.5 shocks for the front shock swap over (tonight’s project).

Tomorrow I'm slapping the body on it and hitting the park.. I hope to have Vid of it for your viewing pleasure. LOL.LOL (come one come and see the moron who cant drive) LOL.LOL..

Thanks again for your time and help gentlemen..

Have a great week




http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3369.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3370.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3371.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/IMG_3372.jpg

Have you read any of my posts at all? if you want to reduce oversteer, you want a FIRMER front sway bar and/or springs, and SOFTER rear springs/sway.

That said, with an unlocked diff and proper tyres, you may not even have an oversteer problem anymore. But putting a lighter front bar on certainly wasn't part of the solution :)

Could you adjust the rear? it looks like its got some nice toe in on the rear in one of the pics (could just be the angle), but the rustler comes with 0deg toe on the rear, and there is no way to adjust it without flm tranny or mods.

If I remember correctly, the Nitro Rustler rear arms the Slash uses have 1.5 deg. of toe-in. The hubs have none, so it should be 1.5 deg. total.

The slash uses nitro rear arms? but I thought it was the same gearbox as the erustler?, and the nitro rustler and erustler arms I thought weren't interchangeable...

Looks like they are different front and rear arms then the electric rustler/stampede. The nitro uses mounting blocks. They must be the same width (at the transmission) as the electric though. The arms are a little longer for the nitro about a 1/4 inch. Don't know about the toe-in. I've checking into it a bit. Got enough parts in a bin to make another rustler but have found the motivation. If I get a slash chassis it might be the motivation I need.


Shaun, looks like you got it going in the right direction now. Another nice build. Don't see any aluminum yet. I like those rims. I've invested in the pro lines and axials but they both don't address the offset issues very well at all. I tried the link you provided but there was problems with it. I'll check it again. In the beginning with a 2wd it easy to spin donuts and fishtail. Everyone thinks you doing them on purpose. Just agree with them on how cool it is. LOL How does it do keeping the front end down?

Check out the rear exploded view of the Slash:
http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5805_rear.pdf
Here's the part number referenced for the rear arms:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/630234.asp
These are shorter than the electric Rustler arms.

And then the front exploded view:
http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5805_front.pdf
And the front arms:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/630831.asp
These are the electric Rustler front arms.

Yeah I was wrong on that. Got something mixed up. The rears for the slash are 3 5/8 and the ruslter electrics are 3 15/16. I think I compared the backs length to the front arms. I remember see 3 1/4. Late night surfing will do that. Looks like the front arms are the same for the slash and rustler part # 3631. Thanks for getting it straight Metalman.