what does this mean? MM ?
 

I have a mm and was runnig my truck earlier, the Mamba max continuisly restarting like i was flipping the switch..

was it thermaling?:oh:

damaged switch ? one of the wire might be unsoldered

checked that too, its fine
im stumped

By "thermalling", the MM would be very hot to the touch. Is this the case?

Also, are you sure it's just the MM that's "resetting"? It could be your BEC resetting. It might be hard to diagnose because the ESC takes a little longer to reset than receivers do, so your steering may not seem to be affected. I would try a receiver pack or something to rule that out.

Its the switch... Ive had this issue with 2 MM's after extensive use.

If you replace the switch, get a closed-frame type. It'll keep the dirt out better, which keeps the contacts cleaner. I never liked slide switches. Here is a decent small one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Before you go out and buy the switch, cut the existing switch off and tie the wires together and solder. Heatshrink them and run it. If the problem goes away, then the answer is obvious.

its not the switch i checked... the problem stopped anyways, i have no idea what it was

Mine was doing this yesterday. I have changed the switch ad I know its not that. On mine I know the Tx batt was low (9.7v) and I think the Rx was going in and out loosing signal. It gradually got worse and I had to pack it in. It was a 2.4 ghz Fasst system btw, prone to this signal loss so I hear.

I knwo temps were fine as well. No LVC either

The MM I have on my Rustler does this also. It will come to a stop like the switch is turned off but the steering still works, then you hear the initialization tones and it starts running again. I'm pretty sure it's something overheating because it only does it after I've been running for about 25 or 30 minutes. After it does it the first time it happens more frequently (about once every 3-5 mins). I checked the temp when it acts up and the highest it ever was was 180f. Patrick said the thermal protection doesn't kick in until 220f. I also eliminated the switch by soldering across the connections at the board. I noticed that mine started doing this after I took the external bec off and started using the internal one. I wonder if for some reason when the internal bec gets hott if it cuts power to the brain board but not the steering.

The BEC will cut power to both, but it takes longer for the ESC to re-arm that it does for the receiver to reset. Either that, or the voltage is falling low enough to trip the ESC but not the receiver/servos.

Are you running the BEC on either12 cells or 3/4s lipo? I had that problem Till i went to a UBEC

I am running mine on 3s. It really doesn't seem like it's low voltage. The steering is very quick when it is acting up and it takes 20-30 seconds sometimes for the ESC to re-arm. It's not like you all of the sudden hear it re-arm. It's like you'll be accelerating then it stops even though you are still giving it throttle, then the car coasts to a stop and sits for 20-30 seconds, then you hear it re-arm and it will run perfect again for 3-5 mins. The whole time from when the car stops accelerating until it re-arms the steering is very strong. Maybe the steering servo is so strong that it doesn't need much voltage to turn the wheels. I dunno.:neutral:

I'm running a ubec and 5s FWIW. My thought that the rx drops out and the esc disarms. The Rx picks back up and the esc rearms. Mine was doing it after not much running, so temps were low. I could drive it for a while then it would do it again. As said, at first it was every 2-3mins, then every min, then when it got to every 20 secs I just went home. This lead to believe it was the tx batts draining down, as said to 9.7V. Temps on everything were fine, ~150F on motor and caps ~130. HS on the MM was about this too. Only other possibilty if the HS was coming loose, but then I don't think I got have ran it so hard for even 3 mins before it went to overheating protection.

my esc is at 125 with a 40mm fan, the motor was at 155, should i reduce timing?

Which motor ya got? if its a normal 2 pole affair (feigao, lehner, hacker), then drop timing to its lowest setting.

yep 2 pole i dropped it to 0, i had it at 10, but bumped up start power to medium to get rid of some cogging.. while it was runnin it was really funn, throwing up grass roostertails, digging holes in the mulch :D

cells are all at 3.83. is there any where i can buy an active balancer to use as the truck runs?

Are you sure the cell voltage was at that level? According to some of the user reviews on hobbycity, the balancer wires are kinda suspect. Maybe you just had a poor connection on a balance wire/connector? Or maybe the balance connector was dirty. Either way, a little v drop due to bad/dirty connection can skew readings.

I think there is an LVC device that monitors each cell while running, but it would be a PITA because of the added wiring IMO. How about increasing the LVC a bit? That way, even if one cells gets lower, the chances of it getting that low are less likely.

Another thing: I'm wondering why you had cogging? Unless you are geared too high, that shouldn't be a problem, especially with slotless motors.

i have the mm set at 15.6, and the actual cutoff voltage is 15.9