Best 10th scale 4wd
 

I already have a monster truck, so now I want a truggy. I want it to be 10th scale or smaller. The two that I have in mind are the CRT .5 and the Hot bodies Lightning Stadium 10 sport.

Are their any rtr electric 10th scale truggies? I'd prefer that because it would cost less in the end. I don't want to go for Kyosho or Tamiya because my LHS doesn't carry parts for them.

I like 10th scale because you can pump so much power through them for the size. I'd like to run 4s lipo on this one. I am open to suggestions. What should I get?

i noticed you subscribed to my youtube videos so i assume youve seen the hell i put my LS10 through.............its a solid truck but its not a racer, so if your just screwing around its hard to go wrong with it.

im making an extended chassis with 1/8 shocks for mine atm, hopefully you guys will see a thread later this week with my progress on this.

The best bet is the crt.5 with the rcm chassis, ofna lx buggy front shocks to replace the .5 rears, and jato shocks to replace the fronts. I have both a ls10 and a crt.5. The ls10 is decent, but does not have a center diff, and has some issues with the rear dogbones coming out. Limiting the rear shock travel will cure the dogbone issue. The ls10 does have a center slipper clutch with a larger plastic spur. It will handle a beating better than the .5 (my opinion).

The full option crt.5 I described will beat $600 new, and the ls10 will be much cheaper. If you only plan to bash, go with the ls10. You will have to make a battery tray, or buy one from mike when you get the motor mount...

On a side note, I have a new ls10 than I may want to sell. I could do it complete (nitro) or as a roller...

Ahh, it'll probably be next year when I get my next car. I have to get rid of my recoil and my Vendetta in the mean time. How do the diffs hold up in both cars? I'll do some searching for pics of the Hot Bodies, feel free to post them if you want.

I do not have an LS10 so I can't say how good/bad it is, but from my experience with my CRT.5, it is a very good handling and tough truck/buggy. I am actually running 4s on it right now, and it is doing very well. :yes: And with Mike's extended a-arms and chassis, it will be even better. There are also many more converted CRT.5's than LS10's (from what I have seen at least) so that may benefit you in deciding how to do the conversion and give you idea's for mounting electronics, etc. :yes:

EDIT: You happened to post before me, but the diffs in my CRT.5 are holding up fantastic. It uses a scaled down 1/8 diff, so they are very tough and should hold up to any power plant you decide to use. :wink:

For a power plant I am thinking a 36-50-3300 Medusa on 4s with a mamba max. Should be fast enough? I don't have the biggest budget, so no RCM cnc aluminum for me. I'll probably stay with the stock chassis.

How much room for batteries are their on either truck? The battery I want to use is 160x51x32mm. I don't want to get an extended chassis, but I may have to if it comes down to it.

that aint gonna fit on a stock crt.5 chassis very easily, the diffs in my ls10 lasted for over 30 hours, till the rear stripped the back side of a gear, the front is still going strong at 40+.......

and btw a crt.5 center diff does fit in the LS10 im putting one in my extended chassis im making right now. it also dwarfs a crt.5 as my ls10 will have a 13 inch wheel base with komodo LP truggy tires and wheels, so its actaully bigger than an 1/8 buggy but alot lighter.......i think you guys will have a different opinion after you see mine. im gonna call it an Ls9 lol, but im not showing anypics until i have my chassis near complete then ill post my thread that way it wont drag along.

The .5 is a sweet car and has an incredibly tough drivetrain. It handles fantastically and should be up to anything you want to do with it.

My lastest and favorite setup is a medusa 2200 50mm motor on 4S 25C 2100 Zippy lipos, controlled by a sidewinder. The 35mm wide lipos fit nicely on the Ofna chassis and the higher voltage allows the use of the cheaper controller and also lower temps. The controller is easier to program too as the usb port on the MM is never in the right place.
I also use a Neu 30C 2500 pack, but the Zips are hard to beat for the price and put out just as much power. I even put on Masher2000s on Jato rims for off roading and good clearance. 1/10 buggy or truck tires for the track.

Mike's chassis is also very nice, and the longer wheelbase would help. The .5 is small enough its a lot less forgiving in the air vs the fullscale 1/8th trugs, so it makes you drive better. It is incredibly light and nimble.

That battery sounds huge. I'm not sure it would even fit on the .5. Really you don't need that big a batt. It just makes it heavy, unbalanced and more likely to break. The 4S 2100 batt I have is only ~230g and is equal to a 2S 4200 lipo. Plenty of runtime, 15-20min bashing, and at $40 you can afford to have a few. I'd try to stay under 300g on the batt.

4S on the 3300 will be psyco fast. My LMT was 3100kv, and on 4S it would do more than 60mph. See my vid. My 2200 still pulls as much as 90A with the mashers on, and I was getting peaks of 1200W plus. Way way more power than you need. 1000W is great really. EZ rolling wheelies as well. 4S on the 3300 will be uncontrolable, trust me. FWIW, Arct1k has a 3300 on 3S on his .5 and it was way fast and doing 48mph pretty easy.

Ryan - The speed runs 48mph at the end were on 4s 5000mah c**pamps... I think that 4s on the 3300 would be ok with just gearing it down a touch...

12T would give you 42mph

what are the adtvantages or disatvantages of a crt .5 vs a crt 1x

Oh wow 15-20 min bashing on 2100mah. I was expecting about 5-10... I wonder how a direct drive outrunner would do. I am putting one in my revo. It will be cheaper and probably faster then the medusa etc., but harder on the drivetrain. From what I hear though both trucks can handle it.

O'rly? I thought it was your 3S packs :neutral:


Oh well.. I'm suprized it was wasn't faster then lol. It could prolly take a lot more gear. When I did the 60mph passes w/ the LMT I had a 18T pinion and 1/10th buggy tires. I was actually only pulling 1000W then. With the M2Ks on a 13T or 14T I was pulling 1400W on the LMT and doing just under 50.

Right now I have a 13T w/ the mashers and the Medusa and it runs really well. OTOH I had the buggy tires on w/ the 13T at first and it was a bit slow, about 35-38mph. Wouldn't wheelie either. Putting on the bigger tires (and bigger load) really woke the motor up. I think it needs a 15-16T for the small tires, and a 14-15T for 1/10 truck tires to run well.

So it sounds like either would work, assuming the 3300 stays cool w/ that high FDR. (sounds like it does) I do guarantee that 3300 will be balisitic if you up the gearing.

There's been a couple of threads about this in the past:

Here's one I found:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13183

Like Finnster I've tried a myriad of motor/battery/wheel/tire combos in my CRT.5 and the only conclusions I've come to for my setups are:
-It takes about 925-950W peak to really push this buggy around when geared in the ~40-45 range.
-When using 1/10 buggy tires w/16T pinion or 1/10 truck tires with 13T pinion the speed is about the same and so is the power output.
-I keep going back and forth between the buggy and truck tires because there are different aspects of running with each that are both positive and negative, but I think the 2.8 Anacondas are the best on-road tire pick for parking lot running.

I'm currently running with a 5S 2600 TP pack and 1512 2.5d (2050kv) on a MM and I love the setup. More than enough power and great temps. I like the additional weight to help stabilize a bit more from bouncing around all over the place.

The one problem I have with the CRT.5 more so than any other car I've had is that on any sort of grass surface it is extremely prone to flipping when you turn - even at very slow speeds.

I have not had an LS10, but I have to say I am very tempted to get one because of the flipping problem and also that the front upper arm turnbuckles have a real issue with snapping.

What setup are you running on the .5? Mine does great on just about everything. My 10th truck is a bit more stable overall due to both greater width and length, but 4wd .5 is more fun to drive. With truck tires I run the rear bones a bit below level and set the front ride height for chassis level. With buggy tires I run rear bones level and front again set up to level the chassis with the rear. I had some tip over problems in the past, but it was because I was running too stiff of springs.

Running the medium blue in back and white hard in front with stock oil weight. With the Anacondas on ashpalt it is rock solid and hard to flip. With bow ties, dirt hawgs etc on grass it flip pretty easy and is a little bouncy on the rough stuff. I tend to run a little bit of pre-load with the rears just a touch higher than level and the fronts a bit more as the front tends to bottom out when braking. If you want I can check on the mounting holes used for the front and rear.

AHH! I just realized I've left out the HPI MT2. That one would be good because I am 100% sure my lhs carries parts for them. I'll start my research.

The HPI MT2 is a solid platform for sure. I know because I have/had one. However, if you do get one, make sure it is the 18SS version. The hardened steel diff gears are a MUST for BL power, and I found I needed the aluminum diff housing as well.

I was just thinking this model as well. The LS10 and the MT2 look very similar and I am wondering if anyone has experience with either. The HB and HPI are same company I wonder if the LS10 mount would work on the MT2.

I've been looking into these two cars for a long time and they may make a fun fall project.

The plastic pull-out servo/radio tray on the MT2 looks like it would present a challenge and not sure if there is a diff or slipper in the middle.

The slipper on the LS10/GT10 looks like something that would actually be kinda handy for the BL conversion, especially with the plastic center gear.

The MT2 uses a center slipper with Savage spur gears (Mod1). My original conversion used 1/4" aluminum angle to mount the motor, and it also had a screw tieing the motor mount to the center bulkheads.

Then later on I got fancy and made a whole drop-in center mount out of aluminum. It was heavy, but worked.

Adding a typical RC-Monster motor mount wouldn't work too well, I think, as the screw holes are in odd locations and I don't think a motor mount would line up straight.

I have seen a couple of guys convert B44 into a T44 that looked pretty cool and seems to be a solid platform.. I don't know what all they changed but I saw a list on here or rctech showing what all they replaced...

I ran the same setup for a while and had similar problems on our local clay track. With the white F & blue R spring setup the car would clip something on the inside of a turn and the car would flip. A good test is to place the car on a flat surface and lift one front wheel. With the white springs you will notice that the shock on the wheel you lift will not compress. This is why the car flips. I found with stock shocks I could only run the Blue F & Grey R spring combo. I would the play with higher damping pistons to keep the car from bottoming too much.

In the end I did the Traxxas Revo shocks on the front and Ofna LX 1 front shocks on the rear. Now I can run soft springs for stable handling and use the larger damper to control big hits. I have a post about these mods: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11153

This mod is the ballz for the .5. It solves alot of handling problems. The susp is now very nice, plush but doesn't bottom out over good sized jumps. The springs are widely available and in good assortments to allow a lot of tunability as well. I think Mike even has it on his ext arm .5 in the store's pics. I showed him mine at the track and he was impressed by what an improvement it was over stock.

Other note: A neighbor of mine bought a used 18SS from the LHS, and I went bashing around w/ him w/ it. Gotta saw I wasn't impressed by it. Maybe it was a bit abused, but the stupid ballends kept breaking and even a stub axel snapped when I very lightly slid into an obstacle. We (I, he was a noob) had to fix it several times that day. Like I said, maybe it was just a lemon, maybe its just that it was a smelly slow nitro, but I didn't like that truck so much. I would not trade it for the .5 by any means, esp given the abuse I've put the .5 thru w/o much problem.

The only thing I'm not so hot on on the .5 (besides the shocks) are the F upper arms. Mine haven't broke, but the small turnbuckle is a bit bent. Been fine for a while now, but if there is a flaw that would be it. Oh yeah, the servo saver... prone to breakage if its mounted in the outer ackerman, inner ackermann and its fine.

Every car has its weak spots. I am leaning towards the OFNA atm. It seems smaller so it would be lighter and faster.

What about a Kyosho DBX or DST? Has anyone come up with a motor mount for one of those?

I've gone through at least 4 upper front turnbuckles. I even tried a Ti pair and they snapped just as easily. (I can never understand why people say Ti is stronger because every piece I've ever upgraded to Ti has snapped or bent more easily that the Al or steel one it replaced and I just end up going back to the stock metal anyway)

I killed the servo saver on the crt.5 but then just replaced it with the upgraded aluminum one from Nitrohouse (the Al upgrade parts are pricey but the quality is really impressive).

Has anyone tried the extended A-arms Mike just put up on the site? I am tempted, but no sure how much of a difference .6" is going to make. And if the upper A-arm is now made out of Al and I snap a turnbuckle in the threads I am going to have to dremel a very expensive piece of metal to get it out rather than a cheap piece of plastic.

I've had the same problem with the upper arm turnbuckles both steel and ti. IMO the ti did snap easier than the steel. I have also had them snap off flush with the upper arm and had to cut a screw driver flat into the turnbuckle to remove it. I think I'm going to try the Lunsford 4mm x 23mm turnbuckles next and just drill out the plastic parts from 3.5mm to 4mm.

Anyone seen a steel 4mm x 23 - 25mm turnbuckle?

I was toying with that idea as well and it sounds like it could be a very good protective move and pretty easy to do.

How about these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13309

If Hudy Steel isn't up for the task I don't know what is!!!! (Not sure if they ar 3 or 3.5mm though)

Well skip the lunsford titanium hinge pins - they are as soft as butter...

The stock steel are much better...

Yeah - and 5 times cheaper - I just don't get it...... None of the Lunsford stuff I have bought over the years has been strong and they constantly advertise how much stronger their stuff is over the stock steel.

As far as this thread goes - it really seems like the CRT.5 is the way to go - the 1/10 4WD truck market seems pretty dry and most of the models out there are 2+ years old and don't benefit from the latest in technology with captured hinge pins and the such.

The problem IMO is that the turnbuckle is at the weakest leverage point, ie the center. It needs to be as close to the hub as possible and allow the center of the arm to flex but not bend steel or break. Not sure what you can do about this other than a new arm design. Luckily I haven't had any break yet X >< X

There is the new 1/12 mini hyper ST...:)

Someone should try it out maybe....

I've only bent 1 or 2 stock steel hinge pins in over a year of hard driving, but went through all 4 lunsford inner pins in a couple of weeks.

I don't care where the thread goes. I've got most of the information I was looking for.

If those xray turnbuckles don't work, you could try getting a 4mm threaded rod and cutting it to length and see how that holds up. It would probably be WAY cheaper too.

That is true, but it from the same company as the CRT.5. I looked it up and some pics ( http://rcdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1282 ) kinda show that it looks like a CRT.5 with some of the original major kinks worked out regarding servo, front upper-arms, bigger front shocks.

Where to buy it is a question though. I don't see it anywhere on OFNA's website.

Looks like the Hyper Mini ST is available in the UK:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.ph...n&ItemID=30355

I would consider an order but may just wait until a US release - it can't be that long now as this model was hyped back in Feb and April of 2008.

They had it at Nitrohouse for a little while, looks like its sold out again. IDK why the rollout is going so slow. I saw it was like $320 or $350 for the RTR. They will release a Pro version after a little while here, just god knows when. They did make a PBS kit for the .5 as well, but I haven't seen it FS here yet.

It is Hobao, an Ofna division, just as is Jammin, but they are not the same cars. I can tell you my Hyper ST is not an X1. :) Ofna is cool, but they do some strange sh1t sometimes.

Vintage did you decide on a truck yet?

I wish I could find the HB 10 gt2...

I cannot decide between an extended/widened crt.5 and the HB st10!

The crt.5 is The crt.5 is 14 length / 11 width
Widened with mikes kit, it would be 15.6 length/ 11 width (wider once I put new tires on it)

The HB 10ST is 15.9 length/ 12.6 width (so just over an inch wider than the crt.5)

For comparison a stock rustler is 16.7 length/ 12.7 width (so an additional inch longer than the HBst10, and 1.5 inches longer and 1 inch wider than the extended crt.5

What do you guys think I shoudl go with? I want a bigger truck, but dont want to go 1/8 buggy/truggy as I want to keep my MM controller.

Sorry not trying to threadjack...just trying to figure this out soon so I can sell my rustler and make the move.

Ya know - I know what I want, but I'm just not sure if it is out there.

I have found a GT10 on a website in London and am considering ordering it from there.

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.ph...=BiggerPicture

A Main still carries all the parts for the LS10 which are mostly interchangeable with the GT10 as well.

I also came across this: Team Academy Velox XB
http://www.modelrectifier.com/search...ew.asp?ID=1996
Looks like it is an older model from 2005 but still it has full metal diffs, pivot ball suspension and captured hinge pins.

So I pulled the trigger and picked up the HB66776 Lightning GT10.

They were out of them at ModelSport so I picked it up from gtmodels.com. The price was a little more but the shipping was cheaper.

With the $$ conversion I probably paid a lot more than I should have, but I've been eying this model for about 6-10 months and decided to just stop torturing myself.

Was also thinking of picking up the Mini Hyper ST, but there's no parts support yet in the US, so I'll wait a few months and hope it gets released here soon.