Would anyone be willing to:
 

To do the opto mod on my MMM, i tried and apparently i failed...:lol:

All the LED's work. it responds to throttle commands, the fan comes on and nothings smoking or getting hot (all ambient temp) but the thing wont arm or beep or anything tried with the switch on and off.

My questions to you guys are:
A. What did i Do wrong
B. Would anyone Do these mods for me
C (longshot) would anyone trade me a pre-optoed MMM:whistle:

Thanks
-Ben

to complicated for me to mod a mmm...simply ship it to cc:whistle:

First, take a really large, clear picture of the modded area and post it. Much easier that way instead of speculating what might have happened.

I would hate to do these for people and have them not work. It's bad enough to void the warranty, but to have someone else void it....

well its already been voided- pic up in a minute

I know, but I'd hate to be the one to make it totally beyind repair...

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0902081849.jpg

lighting makes it look worste then it is, ther areent any shorts

Hmm, it's kinda hard to tell, but I don't see any solder bridges anywhere. It looks like you did overheat a couple of the traces in the upper right corner (10 pin IC), but those should not matter since the IC is out... unless they are paths to other spots in the circuit using vias on another layer...

Triple check for shorts - It is odd if the brain board is getting power but not powering the FETS...

Brushlessboy, Im not sure if its the same with you but I notice the same behavior when I first tried the mod then out of curiosity I turned on/off the switch and it finally armed. Thats when I decided to short out the switch connection, really no use. off position still show blinking light like trying to arm.

I am not one hundred percent sure though, hard to see if there are any short on your ESC...if you have a tester might want to try also

i have tested multimle times- no shorts

the leds arm, as in they flash all three colors then go to green and respond to the trigger

Are you getting any tones from the motor?

Short out the switch...

When soldering on a board.. to add or remove components...
you HAVE to be VERY careful with heat.. Circuit boards are made up of several layers with traces through each layer... even the contacts on the top layer may continue on to another component... too much heat and you WILL lift traces, and they can not be fixed.
You WILL damage the traces that may be below where you are soldering.. and can NOT be fixed.
If you short/bridge a set of contacts... or more.. yuou can/will short and damage other components on the board. Shorting and hitting some of those other transistors, resistors, etc with any amount of current and/or voltage can/will damage them. At that point, you are pretty much dead in the water unless you have an Oscilloscope and a schematic of test points, and what readings would be where.
Soldering on a board is a MASSIVELY different world from soldering wires to connectors.
I wouldn't suggest practicing on a $200 piece of electronics that you can have replaced for free under warranty.

no
i dont see what the difference between that and flippin git to on is...:no:

They suggest it as it isn't needed and eliminates one potential place of a problem.

ok, switch is off- now i have a blinking yellow led- no more fan - no more throttle response on the led's :no:

Then you have a sort, or possibly an open on another pad, or a bad component from possibly too much heat, a short, or a bad trace from too much heat, etc...
You tried... I give you that. You can keep trying but, the more you apply heat to try and fix anything, the more damage you are likely to do.
Time to buy another ESC.

castle link stoped working too.. :no:

At this point, I would contact Griffin to see what he says. I feel really bad about your luck. This is why I kinda regretted posting this whole thing in the first place.

Is there a possibility you could gently clean off all the flux (the clear filmy stuff from soldering), take a damp rag and wipe off all the flakes (from scaping the flux), and then take a larger/clearer picture? Use better lighting too. Maybe we will be able to see something not evident in your other pic.

You might want to import the pic into Photoshop or something like that, crop out unnecessary stuff, adjust the contrast (if needed), and save in high quality JPG.

dont have photoshopop.

and brian dont- i knew it was a risk, not your fault

Don't regret it.. You posted some great info for people to use. BUT! You gotta know what you are getting into or e willing to learn (and accept the risk) on the fly.

i just cleaned off the board anc ccl works again!

yes that picture is horrid- but the esc works on CCL again- leds respond-AGAIN, fan comes on AGAIN

still no armage though (yes i made up a word) :lol:

looks like some shorts on pads from the IC that was removed.(top center) (And worse on the one below)

i just tried to clean it up a bit with photoshop, but it didnt change much. Low res pic.

Maybe you should try resetting the endpoints.

I think you need to try cleaning up these areas:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...3&d=1220404101

i have a crappy stocker radio, ther are no endpoints :lol:

Well, there is a throttle trim. Make sure that is centered.

Did what you asked chris- same resuslt and no shorts

go ahead and re-calibrate the whole thing.

This could be a really dumb question, but are you using the same radio as you were before it died? I ask because I somehow manage to forget to reverse the throttle on my futaba radio every time I make a new profile on it, and with castle controllers it gives similar symptoms to what your getting, especially when I try and calibrate it. Flashing LEDs, apparent LED response to throttle, but no tones or anything...

He's not getting any motor tones though, which indicates something is not functioning between the brain and power boards.