MMM Mods
 

I decided to do a few pre-emptive mods to my MMM.

- Removed switch
- Wired for external BEC
- Re-routed fan wire outside of the case to stop it rubbing and added some shrink
- Enlarged RX cable opening
- Removed top of fan cowl
- Added a 2200uf 35v cap
- Removed the centre of the base and added a lower plate to increase PCB clearance.
- Mounted on foam and soft velcro

PS the switch was cleaned up from here and just bridged on the PCB in the end...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/001.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/002.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/003.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/005.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/008.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/010.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...1k/MMM/011.jpg

I love it,You turned your moster into a MONSTER.So that was A never ran unit?

Looks good! Let's just hope this mod pays off.

Is that a Hyper 8?

Hyper ST Pro - I put two packs through it at the weekend with the UBEC, No Switch and Cap - The other mods were completed tonight...

Why even install the case? How about just using the cutout bottom part of the case?

Is all that aloud under warranty?

Nope! :mdr:

I think so :lol:. CC just said that only circuit board mods void the warranty. I think it was Bernie who said that in a post.

Here's what he said:

Well technically no PCB mods apart from the switch so a little on the grey side of the warranty... If it fails due to the lower case mod then its my issue - If the BEC components give out then really nothing to do with what I've done...

I still want a bottom on the case for dirt, mounting and to protect the pcb.

Is the pcb now tight in the case or is there some room for shifting?

The fan plug taking the shock from resting on the bottom of the case is a very valid point in my opinion.

It does make sense that mechanical shock focused on that point will cause problems.

I wonder if there is enough material to just hollow out a deeper spot for the plug to have some head room instead of removing a window from the bottom?

Nice Mods. I think you will be pleased with it. :yes:

Anyone know if you can buy a new MMM case?

Can someone school me on something?

I am assuming that This;

Is not what Patrick is talking about here;
quoted from here;
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...328#post200328

I am assuming this is different...

the difference between a "resistor" and a "cap"/or "capasitor"? :neutral:

Is the cap used to help reduce the electrical "ripple" effect talked about in other threads?

Is this used to help reduce problems caused by "cheaper" batteries?

I apologise in advance for my ignorance. :oops:
If you dont feel like schooling me, I understand, but maybe you can point me in the right direction to school myself on this?
Websites, links, forum threads about this subject I may have missed? :rules: etc.

Any and all info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

and be gentle:mdr:

I just removed about 1/2 the thickness of the case bottom below the coil and the fan plug. I also plan to add some heatshrink to protect the fan wires inside the case. I may remove the top like Arct1k did, as I can hear the fan rubbing the top sometimes...

Where did you get the cap Chris?

hoovhartid
RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Posts: 111


You've all known this meant whofarted ? Ive been reading/ chatting with him for months and never got it, thought he liked horses or cows alot LOL man

yeah, like I said... most people dont say it out loud :lol:

My name in other forums (scuba diving) got banned...well edited...

from
"I_Sofa_King_We_Todd_Did"
to
"I_We_Todd_Did"
to
"RonJeremy_Diver" :neutral:

Never claimed to be the sharprest knife in the drawer, thats why I make sure I go the deepest and move around alot

Looks good Chris. :great:Two suggestions to further bullet proof it...


1) Take the capacitor and trim the rigid leads down real short and solder flexible wire (18-20ga) between the cap and the battery leads. I had a rigid cap lead fracture and break on another esc just from the normal vibration of use and it shorted and toasted my rx and servos. The esc survived, but it still wasn't fun. The flexible wire will prevent the rigid cap leads from fracturing.

2) Unplug the fan from the MMM board solder a servo lead on it and plug it into the Rx so its powered with the external BEC. With it still plugged into the board it is still putting a very small load on the internal bec. As long as you have gone this far you might as well take as much load of off the internal bec as you can. Once you take the fan off of the internal bec circuit the only thing it will power is the MMM brains and thats a very small load.

I did the same thing, as you with the window in the bottom of the case and the padding under it, but I think you went a little crazier with the dremel tool than I did. I just did a small 1/2 inch square. Yours looks 4 times as big as mine, but as long as you can mount it still it probably doesn't matter how big it is. The point is to take the pressure off of the board.

I dont see why any of that would void the warantee. People have been doing case mods on this esc from the start and the rest of it doesnt touch the board. The only questionable thing is the direct jumpering of the switch right on the board as you described. I havent had a switch fail yet so I havent gone that extra step yet. I'm sure it will happen eventually though. That is provided I can get one to run for a decent legth of time.

Hi,

While I'm no expert, I think the resistor thing & the cap thing are 2 different things. The resistor thing was an attempt to eliminate the sometimes frightening spark when the battery is connected to the esc while the capacitor is there to assist the esc run a little cooler.

Hey Arct1k, if u do find the cap helps with esc temp. do update us although I think MMM is fine without it. Having said that cooler is always better.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Jeff - thx will take your advice on the caps - Easy change now on the MMM as you can pull the leads off - I debated about creating just a pocket but decided to create enough room I'd have to got through most of the case anyway.

I was in two minds about the fan too as it means an extra y splitter - not the end of the world... I'll go for V3 tonight... I also have 3 MMM's to do this to...

Caps charge almost instantly so no issue for MMM - Extra caps help with any Ripple Current and I've generally found to help the ESC a lot.

PS here are the caps:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-1597-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P10310-ND

this is the one novak recommends
Power Trans-Cap Module .......they have extra doohicky's on them

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/p...power_caps.htm

this model for 4s and 6s

http://www.shopatron.com/product/par....56.7400.0.0.0

Hmmm... $17.50 for a cap with wires added or $2 and I add my own wires...:neutral:

Number one...... electronics are not my forte but it seems you are considering this to be just another capacitor......did you even read my first link and look at the bottom of the page?

the Novak unit makes this claim

http://www.rgcbuilders.net/cap.jpg
The Novak capacitor modules have more than just a power capacitor, we have also included on this module two Transient Suppressors and three High Frequency Decoupling Capacitors. The two Transient Suppressors act like a voltage clamp and prevent high voltage spikes from damaging the ESC, and the three High-Frequency Decoupling Capacitors filter out radio interference noise.
So, the Novak capacitor is not just any power capacitor. Novak specially selects capacitors with very low ESR values with the highest possible ripple current for the capacitor that size

is this just pure bullshit or is there something to this?

There is probably something to that. That little transient surpressor "voltage clamp" device is what Artur adds to the MM and R1Pro when he mods it. Only he adds a single biggger one to the back of the main board where the main power wires are soldered on.

I guess there may be something to it. I dont know if'n its needed or not, but It probably cant hurt anything.


EDIT: and no, I didnt scroll down. lol

dude its novak, the 4.5 catches on fire if you run a 14 tooth pinion, id assume, yes its BS

Jay go back to bed dude...you need the rest

lol..maybe it will make a bigger fire when it blows

lol man wish I could. Deny my comment was true. How is their cap going to help the fact a 380 rotor is spinning a monster truck

I just used a Dremel on my lower case to carve out a nice cavity of clearance for the fan plug. Much better! :yes:

I did notice something else that concerns me.

There are TWO resistors directly above the circuit board support rail. One had been clearanced and allowed for. The other had NOT.

The one that needs attention is on the power output side right on the edge of the board. The fix for this is just to remove a small amount of material from the rail so the weight of the board isn't pounding on the resistor.

I'm not sure what would happen if this resistor broke off. My guess would be that it serves as part of the filtering for the emf return to the brain.

Anyone else notice that it's a 10V capacitor in those pics??? :rofl: It's made for 6-7 cell touring cars. At least that version. Do they make a more capable unit?

The capacitor on my brandnew Novak 6.5 HV blew nicely with a big flame out of it on SPC 2x cell 8000mah packs on my erevo so mine didnt protect the ecu at all:lol: and has now been replaced under warranty:yipi:..my MMM/Medusa combo has been flawless so far.:party: surprised me to

Arct1k,

You inspired me to do a bit of modding myself.

I kept it a bit simpler tho. I only did a bit of dremeling on the bottom portion of the case. I made a bit of room for my wires that connect to the switch and the Rx plug. Also made a hole in the bottom to clear out any possibility of rubbing.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...m/IMG_1450.jpg

Then I just covered it with the sticker. :whistle:

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...m/IMG_1451.jpg

Thank you for your thread.

That's a nice case mod!!!!

Would it be possible just to put 4 little round foam (or whatever them are) things inside the bottom of the case? 1 at each corner to stop the bottom from hitting or will that make the fan sit up more?
Ill try to find what I am talking about and post it up

Some o-rings or grummets should work as well as rubber, plastic or Teflon washers. I got a Monster Max coming and I'm going to look at everything possible to have it running good. I'm not going to use the BEC as I like my Rx pack too much :lol:.

Yeah, might use some o-rings as I have plenty of them. See how it goes

thanks!

I dont think it would effect the fan at all, but I also dont think it will help...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...sam/mmmgap.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...am/mmmgap2.jpg

as you can see in those two pics, the board is supposto sit on top of the tabs on the case bottom...
because of the design, the board does not sit right. I dont think the best answer is cramming more (o-rings/foam/etc.) under the board because the clearance issue still exists. This is why I removed the sponge that castle put in there. and cut the hole for the board to sit flush.

For me...the castle sponge fix didnt really make sense. :sarcastic:
Its as if I had shoes that were too small and started getting blisters...and instead of getting different shoes, I put on a second pair of socks. The shoes are still too tight, but now they are even tighter than before. It just didnt add up. I donno, maybe I missed something :neutral:

Who farted?

that would be me!

notice my new avatar?
thats my smoked MMM V2 bottle opener.


(no patrick, I didn't REALLY do it. just tryin to get a laugh.)

would it be possible to build up those 4 corners up with something (glueing some plastic or even hot glue ) so the board would sit up further and not wobble ?? and would the case still fit ??...or is it just as easy to cut out the bottom of the case ...thanks for the help

I felt the case was a tight fit with just the foam pad...

...When I first got the replacement ESC, i removed the sticker and took a look inside. When I went to snap the case back together, the bottom seemed to be a bit warped when doing so. ....It kinda fought me. Id get one side lined up, and the other required some persuasion(more than I was comfortable with being such a small board)
It was then that I decided to do the mod.

Once I dremeled out a hole in the bottom, it didnt seem to require any force to get the case closed. It snapped shut like it was meant to.

*edit* to answer your question....I suppose its possible, but I didnt try. I believe less is more (so to speak) in this case