Mod1 mm no lights and no tones???
 

Im getting power through the cc/bec to my reciver and servo and fan so this is not the cause but all of a sudden it quit on me the other day and would not arm and will not give me ANY lights or tones, when i plug it into the castleink software it still reads and does what its supposed to but no lights,

any help.

i under stand that this isnt under castle warranty but id like to know if its fixable becasue its been working perfect for 6months on 5s and never got over 135 the day i was running.

Just to be clear, you are getting power to your rx/servos via the built-in BEC, or an external one?

The CastleLink provides the needed 5v, so that just tests to make sure the brains are still working and that the internal BEC is not shorted to ground (which would also shunt the CastleLink PS).

im using an external ccbec and my servos and reciever are still working, and its still picking up though the Computer so that means the brains are good, what went out on it?

Sounds like the internal BEC to me...

howd the internal bec go out, its never been used. i have never even used it with out a cc/bec

btw this was arturs personal mod1 unit.

Oh, the MM. I read MMM. My bad. :oops:

Well, that's a different story. Hmmm. Is the switch ok?

The internal BEC still runs the brains of the ESC even if your running an external doesnt it?

Yes, but the linear regulators are much more robust when run gently. The brains don't use much current at all, so the BEC is hardly worked even though it is linear. It could be the regulator but it isn't a common occurance.

I'm wondering the same thing. It seems the switches tend to wear out. But if you're not using a switch then that possibility can be ruled out.

Yeah, I hate those switches. Even though they are in an external plastic case, the open-frame switch style is crap IMO. I would rather CC charge an extra $1 and use a proper toggle switch.

Same happened to my esc but i was tunnin 3s lipo and it still worked but had no tone or lights so i contacted CC they said to send it in and they fixed the problem. I think they said they changed the leds and replaced the switch because i cut it off. But this time when i got it back I took it out of the platic case and carefully cut the switch from the board, and soldered the two points. Now it turns on when i connect the battery. (ill try to find the sheet of repair to see what they did to the esc exactly)

im not using a switch, i solder the leads together and put shrink over them

well mine is not getting any light or tones BUT it doesnt work i wouldnt give a rats ass if the lights quit working but the controller quit working, it acts as if its not turned on, and wont arm

ooh ok, I miss understood then.

Well, unless you want to completely tear it apart to hunt for the problem, I'd call Castle unfortunately.

I called castle and talked to them for about 20 minutes, they're pretty sure it has nothing to do with arthurs work and are willing to take it in under special circustances for repair to my controller for the $50 fee of course i told them i did not want a new mm replacement just this particular one fixed if possible (since it already has the mod1 done and i know it works great) so after i hear from artur i will either send it to him if he wants to take a crack at it or if he doesnt i will send it to castle, hopefully someone can trace down what ever went out and i can get it fixed, i really apperciate castle trying to help as much as possible.

but since i aint heard from artur yet and i have tried everything possible externally someone tell me how to take this thing apart and ill take pictures and see if we cant find it so ill already know what went out and if maybe i could fix it or if i need to send it off.

There are 2 tiny hex-head screws; one on the end near the power wires near the corner of the heatsink, and one near the caps (may have to remove the heatsink wrap). This is from memory so you have to look a bit if that's not all...

just to check the wires for the switch? did you jump them by the switch ? maybe one of them broke by the esc?

im cleaning trucks up right now im gonna start on it later tonight and ill let you guys know.

but even if the switch wires did go bad closer to board wouldnt i atleast get a light when i plug it into the computer? becuase i dont get any lights when i plug it up to the CP

well after i got the esc out and began to take it apart, i decided to pull the wire loom off and what do ya know when i pulled the wire loom off guess what came with it:whistle: the negative switch wire :oops: i cant really get to it good with out taking it apart but once i get it soldered back on maybe ill be in business agian, should i just solder the wire back on and leave the tail for the switch (about 3 inches of the black and red wire) or shoul i just wack that off and put a tiny little direct jumper wire between the two terminals on the board?

lets keep the fingers crossed and hope this is what it is and that i didnt just pull it off when i was trying to get the pesky loom off.

thanks for the help and input it was just a dumb switch, i removed both wires and just jumpered it on the board, works great agian.