Accessing E-Revo diffs - is it really that hard?
 

I haven't seen anyone put up a thread about this, but I was wondering - am I the only one who thinks its a real pain and very time consuming to get to the diffs in the E-Revo?

I replaced the front and rear a-arms in my E-Revo and I though it would have been easier. Really took almost taking the whole front and rear end of the truck apart.

I've wanted to replace the diff oil in the front and rear diffs, but it looked like it would take another 30 minutes just to get past the hinge pins to the diffs.

Am I doing something wrong? If so - please tell me how to access these parts a little more easily.

Most buggies and truggies make it so easy to get to the diffs with only a few screws, but it seemed like the e-revo is a real pain.

You just have to remove the chassis from the bulkhead. I this means undoing the shocks from the rockers as well but it shouldn't take too long. Never really bothered me but I like tinkering with the truck anyway.

Pain in the butt. Like the E-Maxx. These are definately trucks for us "wrench heads".

I'll agree with you on this. It's always suprised me how people change thier diff oil almost on a weekly basis. Major PIA...

Really? The bulks come off a revo easily, remove the pins that hole the driveshafts to the diff and just slide it out. No need to remove the arms just the shocks.

Arms come off easily, just pull the shock towers and skid plates. I find the revo easy to work on. I will say that getting a diff out of an lst is easier. If you want an all day job, rebuild both diffs in a non X model savage. That is almost a full disassemble job to get them out...

Maxx trucks are super easy to work on. 8-10 screws removes both ends from the chassis, and only a few more screws to get a bulk off and the diff out.

I may be jaded though, and I use the following tools:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNXM3&P=7

http://www.skilshop.com/v3/products/...=%7Bkeyword%7D

Oh man, I had to replace a snapped rear bulkhead on my non-X Savage. My middle arm was sore just after that ~15min. job.

I never really pulled the diffs out of my Revo when I had it. They just sorta remained intact because they never gave me any problems :yipi:.

The E-Revo does have two screws that secure the skidplate to the bulkhead that need to be removed, but once those are out the bulks should come out with 5 more screws (2 sandwiching the shock mount/chassis/bulkhead together and 2 more sandwiching the body mount/chassis/bulkhead together). Then there's a screw holding the 2 bulk halves together, and once that's out you can remove the screw pins holding the driveshafts in, and the diff should slide right out after the halves are separated.
It just sounds a lot more like a PITA than it really is IMO.

You do not have to spilt the bulks to get the diff out of a revo. Just remove the complete bulk/arm assy from the chassis, remove the center driveshaft and the wheel driveshafts from the diff and lift the diff out of the bulkhead. The diff output have to be aligned a certain way, with the flats facing front and rear to slide the diff out. One of the easier vehciles to get a diff out of. I still think the lst is the easiest, maybe 8 screws to get the diff out, 5min job max.

So it sounds like there is some agreement here.

So do you need to fully pull the bumber off to get at the parts? Maybe that's what was taking me so much time.

Ah, you're right. I managed to forget this innovation :lol:. My excuse: it's been a while :whistle:.

I first pull the shock tower off, and the bumper comes with it. Then take the shocks off the chassis mounts, as the long screws go into the front of the bulkheads. That is all that holds the rear bulk in place, the front has 2 addl screws that come out from the top. Then pull the bulks off, take the driveshafts off the diffs and lift the diff out. With a power screwdriver it does not take long, and the long reach ofna driver bits make it really easy. You do not need to take the center driveshaft off to get the diff out.

I have a set of Losi race drivers, best I have found, but the ofna bits and the IXO power driver get used more than anything else. That little lithium battery lasts for a while. I have have put an entire revo together with it, and not charged it once.

No prob, I have built 4 revos from parts recently so it is fresh in my mind!

Plus david is sending me an erevo chassis, so my tekno revo is going to have a complete overhaul and some hybrid diffs. A hacker c50 11xl on 6s should get it moving...

Thanks guys!! I'll give this a try over the weekend.

Jaded? No, just working smarter not harder. Having the right tools always makes the job easier.

A little late to this thread but I'll put my 2c in too. It looks intimidating to do but it's not that hard, but it's not a 5 minute job either. The first time I took the diffs out of a revo was on the G2R I had (bought it used and the guy had spools front and rear). Not only did I have to get to both front and rear but a total rebuild was needed on both. I had it apart changed and back together in a little more than an hour. Getting the bumper off was a pita cause I missed a screw! I'm sure I could do it in under an hour now, will be doing it soon myself. Pretty sure the diffs just have grease in them stock, need to put some silicone fluid in there!

Very true. I wore out my first set of dynamite drivers (crap) within a month. I was just strolling thru home depot one day and I saw the IXO driver. It was 40 bucks, but it had a lithium battery, so I had to have it. I paid 40 for my lois drives, 4 of em... Still a good purchase, good tools are the best investment you can make, next to a high end charger and a pocket voltmeter!

Certainly not the easiest job, but you did it in a good time. It takes me forever to get a diff filled and installed, but I am picky on gear mesh and I always seem to spend a while cleaning the internals before I fill one!

So I am not the only one who takes forever to rebuild a diff. I always want it running as smoothly as possible and end up taking it apart and reassembling a dozen times or more before I am happy.

I feel it is the only way to get it right. I would rather be quick at getting the diff in and out, and then take my time to build it just right. That way it will run properly for a while, and not require disassembly again. We spin these small gears at stupid fast rpm, and they are not really that strong, proper assembly goes a long way to making them last!

These tips in this thread saved me alot of time because the first time I went to service my diffs I took apart the whole rear bulkhead.Today it took about 1 hour to take the diff out swap the diff cup out for a alloy cup then back in.Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Indeed. I sold my E-Revo with a stripped rear diff because I didn't want to spend 1-2 hours pulling it apart, putting in the new diff, shimming the new diff, then putting it all back together. After all my Revo put me through I said screw it and just sold it. Now I have a Muggy with diffs that take 30 seconds to get to but I never need to get to them :party:

Whats the best diff cup and outer diff housing available that doesnt bind.I made the mistake buying RD Logics cups and housings and the housings bind and the bearings dont fit the case.I tried shimming,stock diff cups evrything I could think of and they still bind when you tighten the outer case.

Mikes Hybrid's...

Thanks are they compatible with the Slayer center drive shafts.Can I just buy the cases?Will they work with the stock Revo/Slayer diff cups?

The hybrid diffs use 1/8 scale internals. They are pricey, but will most likely outlast the truck. They are the strongest option for the revo so far.

Well I finaly got the funds to upgrade my Slayer diffs.I went with the Integy hardened gears and RC-logics cups and Integy outer cases.The outer cases came with shims.Everything fit together very well with no bindingin the diff themselves allthough.I had to shave a bit of the Traxxas plastic drive shaft on 1 side of the truck so it wouldnt bind on the Integy case.Besides that the diffs are very smooth.For about 100 bucks so far its worth it.The ring gear is spiral cut and very presise along with the pinion.:party:The Traxxas stock diff both were originaly assembled either too tight or too loose 1 of the ring gears had a screw coming loose from the cup.VERY POOR ASSEMBLY QC.:whip:

Well I thought I'd revive this cause I just tore out my front diff, cleaned out all the grease, washed, dryed, filled with silicone, and reinstalled it. It took me exactly 10 minutes to get the diff out, apart, and soaking. I spent 35 minutes cleaning and re-assembling, which is gonna happen no matter what diff your talking about. It then took me about 15 minutes to get it all back together, funny that it's harder to get back together, getting the center shaft lined back up is a PITA for the front cause it's so damn small.

The revo diffs are not that hard to get to but no where near as easy as a lst. Th elst was the easiest to get too. My savage was the hardest and before the X the savage had tons of diff issues. Thats why I sold mine!!!

Has anyone see or used the rrp diff pinion and ring gears? I was looking at getting those and an aluminum diff cup when my diffs go! Any insite would be welcomed

i just built a couple diff's using the RRP ring & pinion along with Emaxx spyder gear's and RD logic's inner/outer case's but have'nt had a chance to run them as of yet, i did have to shim them up to get them nice and smooth :rules:

Let me know how they do! How did they look compaired to the stock gears? Are they smooth?

IMO i don't think i'll be having any issues with my diff's :intello:

the stock gear's are slightly darker and shiny in appearance where as the RRP are more of a dull, matte finish :lol:

like butter! :yipi:

like to hear that. I might have to pick up a few sets

My understanding is that its not so much the gears themselves as it is the cup and the diff housing. My stock gears have held up great since I replaced the cups and housing.

What is your take on accessing the diff's in the Savage X design (and also referring to the new brushless one)? I ask because I have one on order, but I'm second guessing myself on it - those 8ight-T's are looking awful nice, especially since the price on the 1.0's have dropped so much.

I will be ordering a savage flux. The new design of the x is much easier to work on everything! Also the diffs are better( and better than the ones for the e-revo) The only issue I have seen with the savageX diffs is that they dont come shimmed and they need to be! Once thats done they are golden! The new diff cup for the savage diffs is nice too!

I know the flux will still handle like a savage but it has a more durable drivetrain than the e-revo.

Well that is a classic truggy vs monster truck choice. I prefer monster trucks over truggies... But I am a basher and cannot appreciate the benefits of a truggy:whistle:

X diffs are definately easier to get to. Shimming the diff is a must with a savage. Does the flux come with the al cups with the steel inserts? Those are mandatory in my opinion, I have tried all of the options for my savage and they seem to work the best. Plastic cups are just junk.

I have had great success with the erevo drivetrain, but you are most likely correct that the flux will be stronger. Now if only Losi would come out with an electric lst... That would put the erevo and flux to shame (as long as it had the mmm and motor in it)

My lst2 conversion was my favorit truck. The lst is a beast. IF LOSI MAKE A ELECTRIC MT I WILL HAVE ONE FOR SURE!

I'm in the same boat Linc. The tracks around me are just to damn far away to get to, and even then I'm not certain that I would enjoy it as much as bashing. I've already got that Hellfire truggy that I still need to finish anyway, so my "sensible" side tells me to stick with it instead of getting the Losi. But then, a clean looking LST2 showed up on Craigslist today, for a decent price (275). I think I will leave my FLUX order alone - it will be my first ever brand new RC. Kinda looking forward to that.

From what I could tell by looking at the spec sheets, they dont say how the diffs are constructed, but I'm assuming its the same as whatever the X has. Guess some of those questions will have to wait for delivery.

IIRC, the Revo diffs weren't that bad to get to. Remove the bottom skidplate and steering stop, unhook the outdrives from the axles, unhook one side of one shock, and remove the few top screws and one side of the bulkhead came off. Then, just pull the diff out. I may have missed a step, but it only took me a couple minutes to take one out.

Dang, I blew another diff today:no: The cup slit down the side. I guess I will be ordering an aluminum cup sooner than I thought. This is upsetting b/c the diff is only a few weeks old :oh: . I have my slipper set so I will not wheely from a stand still(and punch control set on the mmm at 70%) I guess the losi superbolt-on tires offer to much grip for the diffs to handle. I might have to go to the badlands(they just dont handle as well as the losi tires do, oh well)

Forgot to add: I had the diff out in about 3 mins! Im starting to get good at it :oops:

What weight diff fluids are standard front, center and rear for the e-revo?

The front and rear come stock with 30,000 and there is no center diff. The traxxas optional center diff comes with 500,000. I have my front and rear set with 50,000

Please explain why the thicker flui